post 2003 nav delete how to.

[kgrove]

This is the one I used -
Amazon product ASIN B006FKAHFM
No reason for choosing mine other than it had good reviews and was ready to be at my door 8am the next day. It worked fine.. can't say it was any better or worse than other options.

For others: Some Alpine decks now require the parking brake to be on to access certain menus in their system including some basic ones like adding a new bluetooth connection. These adapters spoof the Alpine into thinking the parking brake is on so you can access the full Setup menu any time you like. Apparently older systems you could just ground the parking brake lead from the head unit to accomplish the same thing, but they got wise to that and now need to see a voltage change... hence these dongles. I think there are some other brands requiring the same. If you want to save the $10-15 and don't mind having to apply the parking brake, you can instead tie the parking brake wire to the head unit as Alpine directs. I discovered there is no realistic option to do neither of these options. I ignored the parking brake lead in my original setup and discovered that made it impossible to add my phone as a bluetooth connection because the system would never think the parking brake was on. So.... either buy a parking brake bypass dongle (multiple are out there), or find your parking brake wire and connect to that.

 

[jerryb]

what is the status on non nav parts? anyone have anything they need to sell. I'm a buyer for LC parts. 2004

 

[dace voit]

Got it, and thanks. I deferred connecting a new backup camera until I have more time so I can't test it yet, but I hooked up that wire so everything is ready to go by just connecting the RCA cable from the new camera to a plug waiting underneath the passenger seat.

New problem: Axxess ASWC-1 is driving me nuts. It's LED flashes are indicating it does not recognize the radio. I re-checked my wiring and redid the connections and hit the reset button - still nothing. Here's my wiring (ASWC-1 married to a 2007 LC if it matters):
- Axxess black wire to ground
- Axxess red wire to acc power #11 from R37
- Axxess green/orange wire to #7 from R36
- Axxess black/green wire to #8 fro R36

The only thing I can think of is my Alpine also called for acc power from #11 from R37, so I connected both the Axxess and head unit to #11-R37. The Alpine seems fine sharing the connection but the Axxess is having a hissy fit. Could that be the problem? Is there a nearby acc power wire from another connector that I could give to the Axxess so she'll do her job?

The ASWC-1 can be a pain. It's quite finicky. Make sure you are NOT using butt-splice connectors. I made that mistake. Using wire nuts works well. The system uses resistance for controls and the BS connectors interfere. Also, make sure you have a GOOD ground. A weak ground source will cause it to either not work or not work correctly. If you call tech support, they are quite helpful.

 

[kgrove]

I completed my nav system deletion and replacement and I thought I’d give some feedback and my lessons learned. I am not an expert by any means, so this merely reflects a few things I learned that I thought might help others either have the confidence to take it on, and if they do, how to avoid the mistakes I made. While I had though about something like this for years, I never wouldn't have known where to start if it weren't for this thread and specifically Jerry's (jerryb) research and work.

I’d guess I spent about 40 man hours, plus whatever time I will spend installing the backup camera in a few weeks (ran out of time). My prior experience was low to moderate and I wasted a lot of time with poor planning and mistakes. I’m sure I could have cut 10-15 hours plus multiple trips the hardware store or Amazon.com by having a more detailed plan before I started.

I’m happy with the results and am glad I did the project, but it was difficult and not for the feint of heart. I made it more difficult on myself and more experienced folks could do better, and I think even moderately skilled folks could do this if they spend more time than I did planning in advance. That’s easier said than done, of course, since when you’re inexperienced like I was (still am), you don’t always know what questions to ask or what to plan for until after you're knee deep in problems. I discovered many things along the way that were already spelled out in either this forum or the installation guides for my equipment, but I didn’t notice them or didn't recognize they were important until I had already wasted time.

Lessons learned / tips:

• Make sure you have the wiring diagrams specific to your year and make and that you know how to use them (plenty on this forum can coach you)
• Getting all the wires and connectors to fit behind the head unit will be difficult, so do some real thinking and planning about organizing your connections to create the most organized mess you can (it will still be messy). I didn’t plan this well enough and made my life more difficult. Mine looks like rats nest behind the head unit. Label your wires well including the connectors and bundles that will not be used
• Read the installation manuals for all your components and sketch out a FULL wiring diagram of what you’ll be doing before starting. There are a number of shared connections and it will save you time if you know that before you’ve already crimped a couple wires together and there may be cases where it’s easier to run several wires together than each one separately
• There can be physical and labeling differences between wiring diagrams between different model years and between Toyota and Lexus. I discovered, for instance, that the same plug called R38 on a Toyota is for some reason called R36 for Lexus. That can create confusion when you read something on this forum or get information from others. Before cutting a wire, I’d suggest confirming the wire colors of the wire in question along with adjacent wires to make sure you’re talking about the same thing
• You might reach a point where it seems overwhelming. After removing all the factory pieces and starting to cut wires, it will look like a grenade went off behind your dash
• Once you pull the factory center console unit (nav screen, radio, etc), take a look at all the screws holding the components together and remove one of each type. If you buy a bunch of similar screws from the local hardware store, you could leave your entire center console intact and assemble your new one. Not only will it be easier to use that as a reference for where connectors used to be attached, but it might be easier to sell to somebody else that can just plug that entire unit into their truck without a lot of re-assembly
• Save another trip to the hardware store and figure out how you will mount your new amp. I opted for a piece of plywood - 8” x 16” fits pretty nicely in the well under the seat. Have a couple longer bolts with the same diameter and thread pattern (can’t recall - M8 or M10 diameter with 1.0 thread pattern?)
• Document what you do and save it for posterity. You’ll be doing yourself or the next owner a HUGE favor if something breaks or needs modification in a couple years down the road since you’re making the car very non-standard - no manual will match your truck
• I wasn’t sure where I would route things, so to be safe I ordered 12’ RCA cables to connect the head unit to the amp under the passenger seat. This was excessive and led to looping coils of slack cable on top of the amp. I haven’t measured how much extra I actually had, but depending on which path you route your cables, you could get away with at least 9’ or even 6’ RCAs
• Plan ahead where you will run a power cable for your amp. AHC systems are right in the way of the usual passenger side firewall penetration. My 2007 LC had an empty path on the drivers side. I wasn’t enthusiastic about running the cable around the pedals, but it was way easier than any other option I discovered. There may be better options
• Working by yourself will present some challenges. I found it helpful to find a cardboard box that was just the right height so that when placed over the center gear shift area, I could rest the center head unit / computer / HVAC control assembly while I worked behind it
• Figure out a good place for a USB port. I cut a small rectangular hole by my gear shift. In hindsight, I might have looked at re-purposing the cigarette lighter to take advantage of something that doesn’t get used anyway

For reference, my situation and new equipment:

• 2007 LC with nav and a rear DVD player
• Alpine ilx-w650 (CarPlay and Android capable, thin profile so more room behind for wire bundles than most)
• Infinity 5 channel amp
• Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control
• MicroBypass parking brake override (required for Alpine and some other brand decks if you don’t want to engage parking brake to access all menus)
• Antenna Y adapter - factory comes with 2 antennas, one large, one small which need an adapter to use both
• All new speakers including subwoofer using factory mounting locations
• Alpine backup camera (not yet installed due to time constraints)

The finished product:

 

[Njck22]

Looks fantastic, even if it was difficult im sure you learned alot. Enjoy the fruits of your labor!


If you ever decide to sell it this will add alot of value to the next owner.

 

[kgrove]

BTW - the used parts from my 2007 LC are available for purchase. All are in good working order. PM me if you are interested.

 

[Cabelln1]

I just got a 2004 LX470 last week. I absolutely can’t stand the factory NAV and the climate controls -can anyone confirm that all the parts for this swap are still available? I’m confused about what brackets are needed. If anyone has any of this stuff for sale please message me. Thanks

 

[LostAussie]

jerryb is your man

 

[jerryb]

I have the hard stuff to get. Another guy I think,, has two sets of brackets and ac amp housing.
Actually if I remember right it's lost Aussie that has extra sets.

 

[Yamajet]

I’m looking to do this delete. Open call for parts...... who has what for sale?

 

[LostAussie]

Most of mine sold but I believe I have an amp and a heater control housing remaining.
I will check part numbers to verify.

 

[Yamajet]

Forgot to mention, I have a 2007

 

[LostAussie]

10-4

 

[Ontherocks345]

10-4

While you're at it, I'm also looking for 84014-60350 -- I have a 2006. Last part I believe.

 

[kgrove]

Well that went south quickly...

More to come later as I get more info, and most importantly there were no injuries, but the LC who's reconfigured dash is in post #564 above was in an accident yesterday and is probably a total loss (the dashboard appears completely intact). If so, I'll see if I can strip all the dash parts out... it would be the entire working center cluster - everything from Jerry's harness to the Alpine unit to the hard to find boards and parts appropriate for a 2007 LC.

 

[Yamajet]

Fortunately no injuries
Sorry to hear about the machine.
Sent a pm re the nav delete kit.

 

[jerryb]

I'm sorry to hear about your truck.

I hope you can sell the 06 specific board to someone on Here. I know there are 2 looking pretty badly for it.

 

[jerryb]

one last thing, before an agent denies you taking that out.
It's worth buying back for the 3k center assembly
Guys are not above spending that. Buy it back if you can, keep the center assembly in the family.
maybe you want another LC, keep it for the next one.
And if not, there are more than a few guys out there that don't care how much it costs.
Hope you're not too depressed.

 

[kgrove]

one last thing, before an agent denies you taking that out.
It's worth buying back for the 3k center assembly
Guys are not above spending that. Buy it back if you can, keep the center assembly in the family.
maybe you want another LC, keep it for the next one.
And if not, there are more than a few guys out there that don't care how much it costs.
Hope you're not too depressed.

I'll do what I can. Assuming they declare the car a loss, I'll have to choose between a full settlement and no parts or a partial settlement and a non-functioning carcass. I might be financially better off parting it out, but it would be a pain in the ass for sure. I guess I can look at a middle ground and see if somebody here wants to buy the carcass and get me out of the parts game.

Depressed? Yes. I feel like I lost a child... except my kids aren't half as reliable.

I'm kidding if they see this post.

 

[jerryb]

suspecting a resistor on the two middle wires at the airbag light assembly will eliminate the air bag srs code being set. Of course you won't get the 5 wire connector, only the 3 wire connector in the early version of the heater integration panel. So you'd need to test with an existing center assembly from a nav equipped 100.
Then on the new harness, theoretically you'd need to have a resistor on the A45 correct spots, or the C28 correct spots.
actually the perfect spots would be the very end of the C28 male connector where the terminals meet the wire. Logically that's where it should go.
This is for someone that wants non nav in the post 01/2006 100s but find the 60350 panel NLA. Which seems to be true.

Next if that didn't work I think I'd look at the center air bag ecu wires. pain to get to though.
then I'd go about the hiding your older board somewhere. like someone else did here.
Sorry I don't have a truck here to work on.

B1152

This would fix the tesla people's problems with post 01/2006 srs codes also.