post 2003 nav delete how to. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jerryb
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I was able to order what I think is all the parts for my conversion. Used a combination of Partsouq, McGeorge Toyota and Lexus Parts Now. Hopefully, I won't receive any emails in the next few days about some parts no longer available. Partsouq is on holiday until the 14th, so may be a bit before I found out what actually arrives at my door.
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- #504
I added harness instructions with pics to the end of the first post of this thread. I should have done that before, sorry about that. This will work better than me emailing people.
Also I have two sets of harness left of this batch. I probably won't make any more until the end of the year.
Also I have two sets of harness left of this batch. I probably won't make any more until the end of the year.
The whole reason I just bit the bullet and did the conversion when I did was I was afraid of parts running out. Glad I did.
Jerry, if you don’t mind sharing, how many harnesses have you built? I’m just curious on a ballpark of how many people have done the swap?
Jerry, if you don’t mind sharing, how many harnesses have you built? I’m just curious on a ballpark of how many people have done the swap?
It’s an interesting scenario. There must be some formula or way Toyota determined how many additional AC amplifiers to produce or order for replacement. It’s not a part that is common to fail, so how many do we think were produced as extra or were left over from production runs?
Someone had to be scratching their heads at how the nations supply of AC Amps is now depleted.
Someone had to be scratching their heads at how the nations supply of AC Amps is now depleted.
I’ve also built my own harness using jerrybs instruction. Its kinda fun to be honest, anyone that wants to do this when jerry is done for the year. You get into a rhythm of stripping the wires, triple checking you've done the right color, crimping the terminals, checking them, its all kinda therapeutic.
From what I under stand toyota will produce enough of a part to support the amount future repairs will require. It’s a common part to be mis diagnosed as the issue when repairing the AC. Once that supply is depleted, it doesn’t mean they wont make the part anymore.
(Not totally sure if thats true for electronics)
From what I under stand toyota will produce enough of a part to support the amount future repairs will require. It’s a common part to be mis diagnosed as the issue when repairing the AC. Once that supply is depleted, it doesn’t mean they wont make the part anymore.
(Not totally sure if thats true for electronics)
56 of each of the parts required to do this conversion could completely deplete the number Toyota accounted for in their production. Most of these parts rarely fail plus they built a supply based upon the number of estimated failures. Since most of the US sold LCs and LXs were Nav equipped the parts required to do the conversion were probably already pretty rare. Throw in 56 *extra* and I can see how we ended up with scarce parts... Bummer.
The only part I still need is the heater housing (55912-60150 or 55912-60140)- a $10-20 piece of plastic- but it is so insignificant (how many plastic heater amp housings failed in Toyota's testing?) there were probably very few in the warehouse to begin with. I am trying to locate it in salvage yards, but again, it is not really viewed as a standalone part from salvage yards– it is part of an assembly. I am trying to figure out a plan B. The whole thing is being held up by the least important, least costly component. Crazy...
The only part I still need is the heater housing (55912-60150 or 55912-60140)- a $10-20 piece of plastic- but it is so insignificant (how many plastic heater amp housings failed in Toyota's testing?) there were probably very few in the warehouse to begin with. I am trying to locate it in salvage yards, but again, it is not really viewed as a standalone part from salvage yards– it is part of an assembly. I am trying to figure out a plan B. The whole thing is being held up by the least important, least costly component. Crazy...
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- #510
I've thought about that piece a bit.
I think I'd make a square "U" shaped box with ears at the top and holes for the AC connectors to poke out the bottom out of abs and a heat gun.
Also you could dremel straight out holes of the old ac amp box and then use some abs sheets to make up the difference as far as covering the remaining part of the board and having tabs to screw down. I would only work at getting two screw mounts on the top ridge and one mount on the bottom.
The made up part doesn't actually have to cover up the big main board completely. I'd just work to protect it. You'd need to make sure you don't make the piece any longer, wider too where it backs up again the air duct. The AC amp needs to be extremely close to the heater integration panel pcb board. Basically they form a "T"
ID make something for sure. Don't let that 10 piece beat you.
I think I'd make a square "U" shaped box with ears at the top and holes for the AC connectors to poke out the bottom out of abs and a heat gun.
Also you could dremel straight out holes of the old ac amp box and then use some abs sheets to make up the difference as far as covering the remaining part of the board and having tabs to screw down. I would only work at getting two screw mounts on the top ridge and one mount on the bottom.
The made up part doesn't actually have to cover up the big main board completely. I'd just work to protect it. You'd need to make sure you don't make the piece any longer, wider too where it backs up again the air duct. The AC amp needs to be extremely close to the heater integration panel pcb board. Basically they form a "T"
ID make something for sure. Don't let that 10 piece beat you.
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I anticipate trying to fabricate something but without having the actual part in hand (or even a really good idea of its dimensions, connection points, etc) it is going to be a really tricky thing to do. If I had one in hand it would be easy- but then I also wouldn’t bother lol
simple question: what kind and how many small parts like screws, washers, and clips are needed to complete this project? I'm assuming there might be some subtle differences depending on what year, which brackets, what stereo is going in, etc., so I might be best off with a assortment of most likely screw sizes and thread types that might be needed. What would those be?
You can reuse most of what's already there. If you read through this thread you will find the part number for some small screws that you'll need to hold some of the parts together. I don't have it on hand. Sorry. Those are the only extra fastener you should need.
Other than that, typical audio install stuff like butt connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, etc. is what you will need.
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- #514
Once you have the heater integration panel, and it's associated, included, lower panel and red ribbon, with the side green output wires, one on each side, mounted to the fromt plastic fascia. Then th AC amplifier ribbon connected to the amp, it should be easy to see what you need to protect it.
Compare the old AC amp box from your car, use those screw, 2, for mounting it to something new. Use the measurements from the hole spacing on the old to make a new back flat, that's the flat part that will sit closest to the air ducting twords the firewall. I don't think I'd cut out the old section and glue it to new and.
I'd buy a few if those and sheets on Amazon, I think eighth inch 12x12 an practice on. If you make it right, figure out how to heat them and bend with a 2x4.
I think I'd get a usable one on the first try.
I think you'd need some thick small washers, non conductive, for standoffs off the abs so it doesn't get two blocked on the PCB.
And as long as you make it short enough so the AC amp is laying horizontally to the heater board PCB, almost touch each other, you won't run yourself out of space back by the air vent behind the AC amp. (Looks like a T)
Before doing that, someone measure the screw hole distance from side to side on the back of the heater pcb to see if 12 inch sheets of and will work. If not get 18 inch..
You could also measure , half assed, around the AC amp perimeter and add enough to come up to the bottom and top screw holes on the heater pcb to get a total distance to see again if 12 inch is enough, is not get 18x 18 inch. Go with thinest and, 1/8 I guess.
That's my take on that.
If I see LCs in my travels or find a junk yard I will put effort in an attempt to fill a bag with stuff. I give that a small chance in hell, but higher than snow.
Compare the old AC amp box from your car, use those screw, 2, for mounting it to something new. Use the measurements from the hole spacing on the old to make a new back flat, that's the flat part that will sit closest to the air ducting twords the firewall. I don't think I'd cut out the old section and glue it to new and.
I'd buy a few if those and sheets on Amazon, I think eighth inch 12x12 an practice on. If you make it right, figure out how to heat them and bend with a 2x4.
I think I'd get a usable one on the first try.
I think you'd need some thick small washers, non conductive, for standoffs off the abs so it doesn't get two blocked on the PCB.
And as long as you make it short enough so the AC amp is laying horizontally to the heater board PCB, almost touch each other, you won't run yourself out of space back by the air vent behind the AC amp. (Looks like a T)
Before doing that, someone measure the screw hole distance from side to side on the back of the heater pcb to see if 12 inch sheets of and will work. If not get 18 inch..
You could also measure , half assed, around the AC amp perimeter and add enough to come up to the bottom and top screw holes on the heater pcb to get a total distance to see again if 12 inch is enough, is not get 18x 18 inch. Go with thinest and, 1/8 I guess.
That's my take on that.
If I see LCs in my travels or find a junk yard I will put effort in an attempt to fill a bag with stuff. I give that a small chance in hell, but higher than snow.
- Thread starter
- #515
Yes making the harness is fun. I wouldn't recommend it without decent crimper, wire stripper, and good wire from wire barn or delcity.
And of course, the wiring book. That book is indespensible. I don't know anyone gets by without it.
Buying it is cheaper than printing it all out off TIS, which is possible if you got free paper and ink. 450 pages or so.
And of course, the wiring book. That book is indespensible. I don't know anyone gets by without it.
Buying it is cheaper than printing it all out off TIS, which is possible if you got free paper and ink. 450 pages or so.
In regards to the removed parts, what is the best way people have found to recoup some funds? Did you sell the old nav assembly as a whole unit or break it down and sell off the separate pieces? ebay? LC groups on fb? I need to start cleaning my garage for the winter.
Well, here I go. Just bought a US 04 LC with nonfunctioning nav/ac. Thank you to all that have done all the hard work and research so far. I'm sure I'll need some help.
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Your cheapest option will be to buy replacement nav and ac parts from one of us doing the nav removal (see post prior to yours, for example). While doing that, you could add an adaptor to allow you to connect a phone to stream music in case you've misplaced all your cassette tapes.
If you're going to do the mod, sourcing parts will be your first challenge. There are a couple parts that are getting hard to locate - you can read the last few pages of the thread to identify the culprits and focus on those first. Be careful that some sources will indicate the parts as in stock, but then contact you later to say they can't get it. Jerryb has done an amazing job of documenting which parts go to which vintage vehicle.
I think I finally have all the parts to rip out my nav system and am just looking for the free time to take on the project. Eventually I'll have nav system parts to sell, but it won't be for at least a few weeks (I've been saying that for a long time now...)
Megazip is shipping the housing.
I got mine end of August after a three week wait, which they informed me about ahead of time.
I got mine end of August after a three week wait, which they informed me about ahead of time.
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