possible 14 bolt for my 40

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69LC

69LC

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Joined
Jan 12, 2008
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West MI near GVSU
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www.mcdesignsoffroad.com
I am going to need a centered rear diff eventually and was going to use a Ford 9" with 14-bolt spindles and hubs. Recently I discovered a '95 C&C 14-bolt that could be easily narrowed for the WMS I want using srw hubs I converted to 6-lug. I would also shave the bottom ~2" while I'm at it.

My question for you all is: if I cut off the factory axle shaft drive flanges and made new ones that would press over the cut shaft, could it be safely and securely welded? I have commercial welders available at work. There would be two continuous beads around the inside and outside of each new flange. I wouldn't have to have new custom shafts made. My only real cost in addition to $100 for the housing would be finding the right gear-set and whatever locker I end up with. I'd like an ARB...

Thoughts?
 
I've done similar, but only temporally. I highly recommend not welding flanges to the axles. But you could safely spline the flange, and axle shaft.

the correct way would be to cut she splined side off of the axle, and re-cut the splines (assuming there shaft OD is the correct size at that point in the shaft)

If your interested in shipping, I have a complete, locked, 4.10 geared '01 10.5" 14 bolt with semi-floating ends welded, with alloy 6 lug shafts which I have been thinking of selling.
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77TPIFJ said:
i have the spindles if you still wanna make it. Pair of D60 Full Float Rear Spindles - Spindles & Bearing Ends - Spyntec Industries LLC. they are new. i was going to do something similar. never happened. pm me if your interested
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, but I already have spindles and hubs that could be welded into the ford 9" bearing ends. I just don't want to go to a smaller ring gear than stock just for the sake of commonly available parts. 14 bolt stuff is everywhere here and dirt cheap.

I would only be modifying the stock shafts temporarily until I can have new ones made. The 14 bolt shafts neck down between the splines and the flange, so re-splining is not an option.

GRM said:
I've done similar, but only temporally. I highly recommend not welding flanges to the axles. But you could safely spline the flange, and axle shaft.

the correct way would be to cut she splined side off of the axle, and re-cut the splines (assuming there shaft OD is the correct size at that point in the shaft)

If your interested in shipping, I have a complete, locked, 4.10 geared '01 10.5" 14 bolt with semi-floating ends welded, with alloy 6 lug shafts which I have been thinking of selling.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, but I have been wanting to build a full floater since I bought my rig 10 years ago. If I do this, It will get proper alloy shafts after I get it going. I would be making working "templates".
 
A nine inch would be easier to work with and provide a lot more clearance without the need to weld on cast iron. The ring gear is pretty tough and you could upgrade to a hi-9 in the future along with 35 or 40 spline shafts. Also, factory housings tend to flex a lot but welding a truss would be easy.

Welding flanges to the tubes is fine and plenty strong, manufacturers do it all the time.

My only recommendation would be the use of a setup jig to guarantee that you don't warp anything.

Why the desire for a 14 bolt besides the fact that they are indestructible and cheaper than dirt lol.
 
Because they're cheaper than dirt and I can handle the 2" shave and cover modification.

So if I stayed with the full float 9" idea, I would weld the 14 bolt spindles into the bearing ends and then shorten the axle tubes to get my desired axle wms. I was thinking I could just sleeve and splice the tubes. Is that reasonable or not?
 
I've been thinking about the comments you guys shared and will probably just stay with the 9". It's a ton lighter, even with proper gusseting. I can shave the bottom of it too and plate it with a chunk of cold rolled. I just happened to find a couple chunks at work yesterday.

Thanks for the input.
 
I like my 14B, just looking at it under my rig makes me smile.

But let me ask you... Why do you say that you are going to eventually need a centered rear diff? What size rubber you on now and what size do you plan to go to? I'm on 39.5x18-15 heavy ass boggers and beadlocks and couldn't seem to keep rear axles under my 60 even when being nice to it. But I am heavy and do have dual cases. But now I can floor it and not worry about the rear which is a good feeling.
 
I am centering the rear to run a 205 tcase. I have been slowly building my own np246 planetary doubler too. I have a sm465 needing a 2wd to 4wd output shaft swap. In the meantime, I will build a temporary trans to tcase adapter the same length as the doubler will be; shorter than the factory gm adapter. I'll twin stick the 205 just for fun. The 205 is Ford too. I have no brand loyalty.
 
Looks like I will shave the housing 1 1/2" overall using a 5/8" plate. I have a newer housing with the strengthening ribs from the pinion housing to the rear flange. It will be tricky to cut material out to fit the plate in. I will post pics as I cut and fit it together. I currently have a tri-gas stainless wire welder available at work that is supposed to be able to weld this settup.
 
After a lot of waiting for the right opportunity and building hinges and home stuff, I was able to press off the pinion yoke for my 14B to change it from a yoke to flange. I will post up pics as it progresses. I have the plate to close up the shaved housing too, but it is also waiting for time.
 
It's been awhile since posting to this project, but I have made some recent progress. I shaved at least 2" off the bottom of the 14 bolt and have shaped a plate to weld in. I had converted a pinion yoke to a flange, but John (mybluetoy) needed it while it was still warm from machining and I'll have to make another from his yoke. I hope to get some pics before and after welding and then will post up again when I get the tubes and splices ready to weld.
 
The chunk of plate I used was a 7/8" thick piece of I-beam from work. I whittled it down and ground the center out to clear the soon-to-be clearanced ring gear. I wanted to have enough material to have diff cover mounting bolts in. After welding the plate in, I'll machine the face of the 3rd member to allow for a good seal surface. Pics will follow...
 
shave plate welded in

I had some dead time this afternoon at work and was able to work on a "government project". Having big welders at my disposal is a nice perk!

The next step will be to load the housing onto a mill and shave off the excess plate to match the existing rear cover surface. Then I can get to welding the shortened tubes back together.

The pics aren't pretty, but I pre-heated the cast before welding and cranked in the wire and heat. After welding I used the torch to keep the whole thing hot so it didn't crack.

It will clean up nicely.
DSC_0207.webp
DSC_0208.webp
 
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