Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (2 Viewers)

Has your 100 series LC experienced total -or near total- brake failure?

  • No.

    Votes: 1,268 73.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 0 and 50k miles at the time.

    Votes: 1 0.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 50k and 100K at the time.

    Votes: 14 0.8%
  • Yes. My truck had between 100K and 150k at the time.

    Votes: 72 4.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 150k and 200k at the time.

    Votes: 145 8.4%
  • Yes. My truck had between 200k and 250K at the time.

    Votes: 138 8.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 250k and 300k at the time.

    Votes: 76 4.4%
  • Yes, My truck had over 300k at the time.

    Votes: 41 2.4%

  • Total voters
    1,735

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28 sec is like new. I'd check level, clear codes and see what comes back. If C1223 (left rear wheel speed sensor) DTC returns, I'd start by checking that sensor.
 
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28 sec is like new. I'd check level, clear codes and see what comes back. If C1223 (left rear wheel speed sensor) DTC returns, I'd start by checking that sensor.
Thanks. Techstream shows c1223 as the general abs fault. Do you have a reference that you could share that shows that code as a wheel sensor on the LX470?
 
Sorry I just did a google search yesterday and must have had a typo. As C1223 is NOT a speed sensor.

I'd make sure battery good (above 12.5V), and all connections to master and brake CPU look good, fluid topped properly, look for any modification factory wiring (add on toys) or resent work for clues. Then clear DTC, and see what DTC come back.

I'd then get into DI (diagnostics) section of FSM, go through the DI tree on each DTC. Also if any other DTC, perhaps not brake related need considering first. As the ABS does not like most any system having an issue, or it shuts down.
 
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Sorry I just did a google search yesterday and must have had a typo. As C1223 is NOT a speed sensor.

I'd make sure battery good (above 12.5V), and all connections to master and brake CPU look good, fluid topped properly, look for any modification factory wiring (add on toys) or resent work for clues. Then clear DTC, and see what DTC come back.

I'd then get into DI (diagnostics) section of FSM, go through the DI tree on each DTC. Also if any other DTC, perhaps not brake related need considering first. As so ABS does not like most any system having an issue, or it shuts down.
Thanks!
 
Sorry not more help. If you get down to South Denver, hit me up. I'll take a look at it!
 
99,500 miles, 2004 truck. How do I inspect or check to see if I’m at risk?
 
Look for clues:
 
Look for clues:
Thanks, exactly what I was looking for!
 
Yes, at 225k on my 98. I was suspicious of the ABS module for a about 6 months prior. It was loosing pressure internally, and the motor got noisier, and the pressure pump duty cycle seemed to go up to about 50%. On for about 20 seconds, off about the same, then on again....

It is worth noting when the pump failed I had warning lights and an alarm go off, and I still had pressure enough in the accumulator to perform 2 normal complete stops. I had pulled over and was testing the brakes at low speed when the pedal went to the floor. I still had a little brakes at the bottom of the stroke, and I carefully limped the truck home.

I have gotten a New Old stock complete ABS assembly off eBay for about $1100 delivered.
 
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PM me with contact info. I'll get back with my info. We'll work out a time!
 
Just joined the club at 287K. Alarm and lights. Then went out. A day later came on again and this time never went out and brakes slowly lost pedal. Was able to limp it home.
 
Just joined the club at 287K. Alarm and lights. Then went out. A day later came on again and this time never went out and brakes slowly lost pedal. Was able to limp it home.
Bummer but glad you are safe and didn't lose braking. If you have the $ for it, new OEM part is best (around $2200-2500 part only). If you're on a budget (as I was), Andy Le in Sacramento rebuilds these. Mine is working well so far (about 18 months ago on the rebuild)
 
Just joined the club at 287K. Alarm and lights. Then went out. A day later came on again and this time never went out and brakes slowly lost pedal. Was able to limp it home.
What year is the vehicle? I live in Dallas and might have something that you want. I have a Lexus 99 that I ended up with two ABS units, they will only work on a couple of years of production, and both have rebuilt motors which is the typical failure issue.
 
Bummer but glad you are safe and didn't lose braking. If you have the $ for it, new OEM part is best (around $2200-2500 part only). If you're on a budget (as I was), Andy Le in Sacramento rebuilds these. Mine is working well so far (about 18 months ago on the rebuild)
Dealer has them for $1300.
 
What year is the vehicle? I live in Dallas and might have something that you want. I have a Lexus 99 that I ended up with two ABS units, they will only work on a couple of years of production, and both have rebuilt motors which is the typical failure issue.
It’s a 99 but I think I’m good.
 
@e9999 Looking at the results of this poll would it not make sense to take the top results

  • Yes. My truck had between 100K and 150k at the time.​

    Votes: 684.6%
  • Yes. My truck had between 150k and 200k at the time.​

    Votes: 1157.8%
  • Yes. My truck had between 200k and 250K at the time.​

    Votes: 1047.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 250k and 300k at the time.​

    Votes: 583.9%

with failures and now break it down to month/year it was made? Has there been any other thought as to those that have been flushed regularly etc...?

If this has been covered already my apologies. I did not read all 50 some pages.
 

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