Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (1 Viewer)

Has your 100 series LC experienced total -or near total- brake failure?

  • No.

    Votes: 1,266 73.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 0 and 50k miles at the time.

    Votes: 1 0.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 50k and 100K at the time.

    Votes: 14 0.8%
  • Yes. My truck had between 100K and 150k at the time.

    Votes: 72 4.2%
  • Yes. My truck had between 150k and 200k at the time.

    Votes: 145 8.4%
  • Yes. My truck had between 200k and 250K at the time.

    Votes: 138 8.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 250k and 300k at the time.

    Votes: 76 4.4%
  • Yes, My truck had over 300k at the time.

    Votes: 41 2.4%

  • Total voters
    1,733

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LS, I don't think we'd go far with breaking things down further, TBH. But, of course, feel free to start a new poll if you'd like.
The numbers are just amazing, though, I've been debating whether I should send those in to whatever govt agency to look into a recall of sorts...
 
Dealer has them for $1300.
Thanks, Shane. I was ready to disagree b/c I bought part number 47050-60012 back in June of 2021 and the best price I could find then was McGeorge Toyota online parts at about $2240, shipped. Without going into a really long story, the part didn't fit my LC (though I even entered my VIN number and confirmed fit in advance) and I had to return it, and have my original part rebuilt by Andy Le.

In looking into it again today I am pleasantly surprised that Toyota/ dealers seem to have dropped the price on the Actuator Assembly (one piece master cylinder/ brake booster/ accumulator/ ABS module) by almost $1000! Great news for anyone on this thread or having this issue. Makes getting a new OEM one much more affordable for a 20 year old vehicle!! Thx
 
Longo Toyota Prosper $1259.86 Also, see your in Hawaii. That may have to do something with it.

The ABS unit is not very heavy, so freight shouldn’t add much. Our dealership is the only one on our island though, and as a “monopoly” they like to charge extra. I believe the shop account price for the part was on the order of $2400...
 
The ABS unit is not very heavy, so freight shouldn’t add much. Our dealership is the only one on our island though, and as a “monopoly” they like to charge extra. I believe the shop account price for the part was on the order of $2400...
Ewa Beach boy here, you pay the premium for living in paradise, always have. More modest to live on the mainland in just about every way. On eBay/Amazon do you get hit with a higher shipping fee? Do you mean one dealership on Maui, or the main island?
 
The ABS unit is not very heavy, so freight shouldn’t add much. Our dealership is the only one on our island though, and as a “monopoly” they like to charge extra. I believe the shop account price for the part was on the order of $2400...
Hopefully you can find a dealership on the mainland that will ship to HI. Or an international parts place, if they ship to HI, that has them for around $1200-1300 "new pricing". You will want to double check the part number.....I believe 47050-60012 is what you need (includes brake booster, MC, accumulator, pump) but you can double check based on your truck's year. I did note this in the description for that part number: "Without stability ctrl. Land Cruiser. Without vehicle skid control" - so if you get it online you may want to do a lot of research first to ensure you get the right part :cool:
 
Ok, so my pump is working just fine, but this started happening just out of nowhere:

Video 1

Video 2

Sounds like a valve is acting up in the system, like the accumulator is bleeding back to the tank.

300 000km 00 HDJ100

Any ideas?
 
My guess is as you suspect, the accumulator has failed, or perhaps the pump.
Probably worth replacing the accumulator, pump and motor as one assembly.
I got a genuine one from partsouq, in the UAE, for around $1000 AUD for the assembly, including shipping to Australia, for my UZJ100, that is.
I assume your HDJ100 would be similar.
Mine had the motor fail, which I replaced with an aftermarket, then the accumulator went soon after, so ended up getting the above all replaced with genuine.
You could replace the accumulator for around half of that amount, but given the number of KMs, the motor is probably getting pretty old as well.
 
After further speculating on this, it sounds to me as the pump is not shutting off, like its overpressuring the whole system wich dumps the pressure back to the resorvoir. Sounds the same as a hydraulic pressure releif valve. And after finding this thread, Im fairly sure its related to a pressure switch going bad and not shutting off the pump, causing popoff of some safety valve back to resorvoir.
 
Ok, so my pump is working just fine, but this started happening just out of nowhere:

Video 1

Video 2

Sounds like a valve is acting up in the system, like the accumulator is bleeding back to the tank.

300 000km 00 HDJ100

Any ideas?
Replace the brake master!

 
I joined the club last week, luckily about 200m away from home.
Getting a new unit for 2k or buying a 2nd hand one for 800ish with no garantee are not options I was willing to explore.
After a bit of digging, I found this video that explains one of the root cause of why the module fails, so I took out the pump motor and I have the same problem.
Basically the brushes are harder than the commutator and use it until there's no copper left. Once there's no copper, theres no current going to the coils and the motor cannot spin.
So I'll be replacing the motor only, which I found on ebay for 160$ shipping included. EBAY LINK

I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes.

1684732321076.png


1684732206278.png


 
PS : Forgot to mention that I took the motor out by itself, leaving the master cylinder installed in the car.
 
PS : Forgot to mention that I took the motor out by itself, leaving the master cylinder installed in the car.
Yep, that's the easiest way to do it... you just need a long allen key to remove the two bolts, and a phillips for the positive and negative leads.
I found removing the airbox made it easier to get to.
 
PS : Forgot to mention that I took the motor out by itself, leaving the master cylinder installed in the car.
In my estimation similar to me solving a Rubik's cube at first glance, I bow in your general direction with the removal in situ, the actual removal of the entire pump was straightforward with a minimal amount of yoga positioning in the driver's floor pan and dash. the bleeding is the crucial part, I should have bought a new Resovoir is my main regret. LX470
 
View attachment 2378874

This looks like the correct one from a 105 series. It uses a two hole fixing instead of the typical four and the connection point on the cylinder is different too, so more of the parts down the brakes line will be needed. But at that price, it's worth investigating and will definitely be the route I go when my brakes start acting up. If you get one of these to work, you'd never have to worry about them again.


Looks like what I have on my ‘99 LX470.

IMG_6200.jpeg

IMG_6198.jpeg

IMG_6197.jpeg
 
What year is the vehicle? I live in Dallas and might have something that you want. I have a Lexus 99 that I ended up with two ABS units, they will only work on a couple of years of production, and both have rebuilt motors which is the typical failure issue.
Are you looking to get rid of an ABS unit? Mine is also a '99 Lexus, but my wife hauls our kids around in it more than I drive it. I don't want a brake failure to happen when she's driving.
 
Are you looking to get rid of an ABS unit? Mine is also a '99 Lexus, but my wife hauls our kids around in it more than I drive it. I don't want a brake failure to happen when she's driving.
I could be persuaded, I am out of town currently, and it will be next week before I can take a pic and remember all the details such as the new reservoir and wiring. Look for a reply again next Tues.
 

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