Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (6 Viewers)
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Advice: earlier today left for a weekend getaway, raining all morning, drove 100 a few miles, then after lunch departed, wet roads whole way, after about 1 hour driving through stop and go city traffic, made it to the highway. 15-20 minutes of steady 55mph and ABS, VSC (x2) and BRAKE light came on steady. Checked brakes and still worked. No alarm or anything.
Drove about 10-15 miles to a rest stop, carefully coasted to a stop. Brakes worked. Turned off, checked fluid level, it was in between the lines.
Walked the dog real quick…then back in and turned on, no lights.
Finished 30 mile trip to destination, had brakes the whole time.
Need to drive home on Monday, any thoughts on risk?
2004, 100,200 miles (not a typo). Under 40 seconds when I checked booster a few months ago but did cycle 3-5 times.
Thanks!!!
Drove about 10-15 miles to a rest stop, carefully coasted to a stop. Brakes worked. Turned off, checked fluid level, it was in between the lines.
Walked the dog real quick…then back in and turned on, no lights.
Finished 30 mile trip to destination, had brakes the whole time.
Need to drive home on Monday, any thoughts on risk?
2004, 100,200 miles (not a typo). Under 40 seconds when I checked booster a few months ago but did cycle 3-5 times.
Thanks!!!
Mileage wise it sounds early but unless you did all the miles I am not sure how much to trust that benchmark. You checked the booster which is the logical first step. You must decide the risk, mine still gave me some brakes but was much more symptomatic than yours. I also had an annoying sound. Be safe and lets us know the outcome.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Same advise I gave in other thread you posted this in. Read codes!
Got home this morning, plugged in and only codes are related to fuel system which I am slowly working on, P0441,0446,0455 and 2418.
Could something have just gotten wet and caused the warning lights to trip?
2001LC
SILVER Star
ABS shuts down when most any other (non brake/ABS related) DTC (code) shows up. They system does not like anything that could possibly fail or has failed, that may affect ABS.
Clear codes, see what returns. Also how soon they return. Correct all other DTC indicated issue(s). Likely brake/ABS is okay.
Moisture may have something to do with EVAP. But not a common cause.
Make sure to check your gas cap seal. I use only OEM.
I voted no, 1999 LC 380K miles. I replaced all my brake calipers, and brake hoses with stainless steel hoses to prevent a potential issue. New brake build yearly changes to help with combined ABS / Booster/ Master Cylinder issues. The booster motors can be replaced and I have done that on 2 4runners, 1 have sold and 1 still own. So far no leaks between the Brake ABS ECM and Master Cylinder on any of the Yotas that have this system.
If only you lived here lol
It occurred on my LX with 230k after the ABS Module inside the cabin was replaced. The brake pedal seemed to be pulsating and then the alarm came on. It's been down almost a year between diagnosing and fixing the ABS module and then waiting for a new Brake Assembly to arrive from Japan due to the ongoing part shortage. Shouldn't have taken it to a third part mechanic as I could have been using a complimentary vehicle for this whole time if I'd taken it to Lexus. smh.
2001LC
SILVER Star
There is no brake master shortage. No need to wait on part from Japan, as many brought into USA since 2021. I've three in inventory that fit your year now.
Brake master R&R with Toyota brake fluid flush & bleed. In and out 1 day.
BTW: I very rare to need a brake CPU (ABS module in cabin)
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Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
No. I replaced my brake lines at 3 yrs/50K miles. It was a Phoenix car, so the OEM rubber hoses were already cracking. Replaced w/ Stoptech SS lines plus had a custom SS line made at a race shop for the body to rear axle drop. Tha was back in 2006. 17 years later, still no issues. I flush the brake fluid every 2.5 yrs.
Great info. Any updates? Did replacing that motor only solve your issue? $100 for brand new and motor swap only sounds way better than $2k for brand new everything.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
No issues at 192k. I flush a quart of brake fluid through the system every year, and make a point to activate the ABS a few times whenever it snows.
Got the ABS and Brake light yesterday. The alarm would go off for a few seconds every 8-10 min, always with a pulse click felt on the brake pedal. Fluid level is fine. One thing that’s odd that I haven’t seen in other posts is that my door lock beep/chirp stopped working at the same time. All the doors properly lock, headlines turn off, but no chirp. Is this related? Hope it indicates that the problem is something that’s resolved for under $2700, what I was quoted for replacing MC, booster.
You are in difficult spot, right now. Dealerships do not want to get into what part of that system failed or failing. Just replace the whole item. A major brake system component, BCM brake control module, master cylinder, booster motor, accumulator just to name a few on that system they are all in the one part.
I have successfully replaced a motor only required removal of entire brake booster assy, to just replace the motor on my friends 4runner. Same kind of system different parts. That fixes his until the next item was to go bad.
Now, complete loss of brakes… hum.. mostly likely lost of boosted brakes and created major loss of normal stopping power. They still work, but ABS, and booster are not… extremely harder brake pedal to create same brake force.
Possible failure to pedal goes to the floor. No brakes at all. That more rare and if that occurred frequently the NTSB would be all over that.
Now age, mileage you have to ask yourself … spend the money and keep it, or maybe only find a shop to replace just the motor perhaps to fix you issue now, but leave the other components to fail later.
Hard choices…
My personal 4runner 2002 I bought an eBay one conditioned 500 bucks and it still working 3 years later and have my original one for extra parts.
New motor for my fiends was like 700 bucks oem yota plus time to change it. He took the risk, 3 years ago and now I own it myself. Still going strong.
There are aftermarket reman motors out there … 100 or so dollars … not sure about them.
I have a 1999, 389300 miles and facing this same issue in the future. I want to keep my LC and kicks to start looking maybe for a new whole unit from UAE or Japan for me the change out.
My other friend in Houston has a Lexus version of the 100 his is leaking Brake control module to mater cylinder and needs a complete unit himself.
So, like said you are in a difficult spot, finding a shop to trust to maybe determine if just the motor is bad or something other. If so willing to just replace the motor alone, …
Here comes the next story well liability reasons , ok got it… they don’t want to just work on that part and the next part fails and they are sued. So they opt to just replace the entire unit.
Low pressure creates the alarm
A lot of the time the motor is the issue , not always …
If you can’t deal with lost of the booster and hard brakes , than I change the entire item. Bite the bullet and move forward.
If you are willing to take a chance you could esperiance the booster fail and have hard brakes trying to stop, then you might try getting the motor changed.
Most drivers follow to close and if a booster where to fail they panic … most like scare themselves or worst yet wreck the truck.
This is the risk trying to repair yours …
My 2 cents…
Hope it helps
2700.00 seems steep, especially with post-COVID shortages being gone, but that is what the dealer is known for, hopefully, and a quality job. The Rebuild is doable and I understand it might seem intimidating. It is something that is at the core of the vehicle these things are tanks and they require big brakes. Worth the money to get it back on the road IMO. This braking system is not unique so there is plenty of knowledge about the repair in the Independent shops.
What year is your 100 series?
Mine complete for the 99 year is 1758.00 cost then shipping
Pump and accumulator 891.00
Pump 761.00
Then shipping… that’s not retail…
