Poll: Dune Biege or Cadet Blue? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pierps
- Start date
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wdukes
SILVER Star
I would say the problem is not which color to chose. I would suggest that you just need one more rig, so you can have one of each. Its always worked for me!
But I don't think one approach is more valid than the other. It's an individual decision said:
- Thread starter
- #44
Thought I'd circle back to this thread with an update. I can't believe it's been over a year already.
So I went with the poll and painted her Cadet Blue. Got a lot of orange peel. Laid down 4 coats... so it's nothing a cut and buff can't fix... the color in the pic looks a bit more greenish than it actually is. The pic of the tub in the booth is more like how it actually looks.
So I went with the poll and painted her Cadet Blue. Got a lot of orange peel. Laid down 4 coats... so it's nothing a cut and buff can't fix... the color in the pic looks a bit more greenish than it actually is. The pic of the tub in the booth is more like how it actually looks.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #47
@TLC Norway Sure! here are some more recent pics. I'm having a great time with assembly. Still have to paint the doors/hood/top/etc. But I had to take a break from body and paint work. I should be able to drive it around the neighborhood within the next month or so.
Since my last post in this thread, the reality settled in that my paint job had tons of orange peel. I ended up sanding it down quite a lot and putting two more coats down. I wet sanded it and did my first pass with the buffer as well.
Some of those outdoor pictures sure are strange to look at- the color is super weird. It's more gray/blue than those pictures look. These pics represent the color better:
Since my last post in this thread, the reality settled in that my paint job had tons of orange peel. I ended up sanding it down quite a lot and putting two more coats down. I wet sanded it and did my first pass with the buffer as well.
Some of those outdoor pictures sure are strange to look at- the color is super weird. It's more gray/blue than those pictures look. These pics represent the color better:
that's beautiful paint. Any progress?
Did you find a paint code for Cadet Blue?
Did you find a paint code for Cadet Blue?
The closest I could get to the color was a dodge color called Ceramic blue.
Thanks @letterman52 ! Yah I've seen you post pics of this on FB; it looks great. I'm stealing that paint code to paint an 80 series.
you posted the codes as:
Dodge PAG
PPG/Ditzler : 936229
RM/BASF : 909698, 909697
Autocolor : 1A7EB, 1A7E
what was confusing is that the "name" of that paint comes up as both "Ceramic Blue" and "Dark Ceramic Gray".
I'm still curious if @Pierps was able to find a PPG code for actual Cadet Blue.
you posted the codes as:
Dodge PAG
PPG/Ditzler : 936229
RM/BASF : 909698, 909697
Autocolor : 1A7EB, 1A7E
what was confusing is that the "name" of that paint comes up as both "Ceramic Blue" and "Dark Ceramic Gray".
I'm still curious if @Pierps was able to find a PPG code for actual Cadet Blue.
I actually saw one of the original Trucks painted this color and it go me thinking about it. I had a buddy go over with his handheld paint scanner and the color matched dodges ceramic blue to within 1% variance. That was good enough for me for a color that can be easily reproduced if needed. As for the naming of it well it’s dodge....
- Thread starter
- #52
Hi,
no not much progress, sadly. Bought an airstream trailer and used the heck out of it over the summer, which took time away from the project. But I'll be picking things back up soon.
Here's an image of the paint label, courtesy of JimLand. I've shared this photo a ton of times, but hopefully posting it here helps folks searching for the code. The paint I used was a delfleet essential ESSS single stage. The local Wesco was able to use this color code no problem.
to my eye, @letterman52's color is basically the same. so it's probably easier to just use the dodge paint code, which is probably available across most product lines.
no not much progress, sadly. Bought an airstream trailer and used the heck out of it over the summer, which took time away from the project. But I'll be picking things back up soon.
Here's an image of the paint label, courtesy of JimLand. I've shared this photo a ton of times, but hopefully posting it here helps folks searching for the code. The paint I used was a delfleet essential ESSS single stage. The local Wesco was able to use this color code no problem.
to my eye, @letterman52's color is basically the same. so it's probably easier to just use the dodge paint code, which is probably available across most product lines.
I spent far too long trying to match the color. If I hadn't lf found an original I probably would of looked for a different color.
Curtice
SILVER Star
Hey Letterman (or anyone) can you confirm Dodge Ceramic Blue it is Dodge paint code PAG? I got a sample of that color to see it in real life, and it is much more dark gray than the pictures make it look. Not as much blue as it looks in your pictures. Granted I only painted a small piece, so maybe not the best to get the full picture.
I have to ask. Was this the first vehicle you painted yourself? Did you paint it in the section of your garage that has the exposed 2x4s to one side?Was that enough room? Would you do it again?
- Thread starter
- #57
Good questions..... Yes, first vehicle I've painted myself. lots of wet sanding - in fact, I ended up painting the tub twice because I got such horrible orange peel the first time. It worked out in the end though- lots of rework and lessons learned, but I'm happy with how it came out.
Yeah, I've painted it in sections. I took a bit of a hiatus on the project, and still have to do the body work and paint on the doors, hard top, hood, etc. Lots left to do.
Yeah, painted it in that garage. I built a fairly sophisticated paint booth (read: dexter kill room) with thick clear plastic, carefully taped up to seal it. Really big HEPA filters for incoming air to keep the space ventilated and to clear out overspray. In other words, it was a "positive pressure" booth. It worked well, but was a lot of work to build. As for the amount of room- it definitely was not ideal. The building is about the size of a two car garage, but it has a wall running down the middle that (I think) is structural. So I painted it in an area that's about the size of a one car garage. That meant that I couldn't use the right mechanics when handling my paint gun (had to stand to the side), and hand to be super careful with the hose to make sure I didn't touch the wet paint. It worked out, but it was far from ideal and is not recommended.
Would I do it again? god. Probably not. It has been a boatload of work. The romanticism of restoring an cool vintage vehicle has worn off- now I just need to suck it up and get it done. The cost of paying a shop to do the rust repair, body work, and paint would've significant enough that it wouldn't have made a shred of financial sense to restore the vehicle at all. It doesn't make financial sense even doing it myself due to the cost of parts/etc. I could MAYBE sell it for what I have into it, but I'm not sure. Plus it has probably been around 1,500 - 2,000 hours of work so far. So essentially, what I'm saying is that I have no desire to restore another vehicle now that I know how much work it truly is.
If I ever take on a car project, I most definitely will buy a car that has either been painted already, or has really good original paint. I really enjoy cleaning up parts and reinstalling them (adult legos!), but I abhor rust repair, body work, and paint.Now, when I see restored rigs up for sale for ~$40k, I think to myself, wow, that's a good deal! I used to think it was highway robbery.
Two questions - did you paint it in a single-stage paint (not base-clear) and if people buy new Toyotas that will be damaged and require a repaint, why is it so hard to find a Cadet Blue paint code? Shouldn't every paint maker have a code for this?
- Thread starter
- #59
I used single stage paint- totally personal preference, but I think the sheen of single stage looks more original than base/clear. Base/clear tends to be too shiny IMHO. But it is more durable, so that's the trade off.
I can can only guess on your second question. My guess is that Cadet Blue was a super rare color. According to the thread below, it was only used for a few years, and may not have even been a color available in the US... story goes that it was an experimental color to try and win a contract with the Australian navy. No idea if that's true or not.
forum.ih8mud.com
I can can only guess on your second question. My guess is that Cadet Blue was a super rare color. According to the thread below, it was only used for a few years, and may not have even been a color available in the US... story goes that it was an experimental color to try and win a contract with the Australian navy. No idea if that's true or not.
Cadet Blue T-449
So, I've been able to find sporadic references to this colour here and there but I can't find a formula. I've found a Ditzler number, 13732 but nothing more than that. It was pretty rare, maybe offered from '67-'70 if it went that far even. Here's a pic. Failing that, does anyone know if...
forum.ih8mud.com
Buy another 40. Do both colors.
