Polishing/buffing advice

[Anvil]

I've been researching here on mud for a few days now, as well as the internet in general. Unfortubately, I have not found the correct thread to answer my question. Though I would think it has been asked several times before...
Here's my question... I'm painting my 74 Fj40 with Omni single stage Dune Beige paint. After the final coat, I plan to wet sand with 1500 grit. What products do you painting experts recommend for polishing after wet sanding? Which type of pad, what buffer speed, which polishing/rubbing compound, any technique advice? I already have many parts primed and painted, but I'm a bit unsure what to do next.
I truly appreciate any info you can provide!
Thanks!
Wayne

 

[bennysc]

I'm working on some 60 series panels right now using the same paint but in white. So far very happy with it!

I am wet-sanding to 1200 grit (because I don't want to remove too much orange-peel, so I can match the factory paint) then using a rotary buffer with a foam cutting pad (I don't see the need to use a wool cutting pad if you have sanded fresh paint to 1500 girt) with Meguiars #85 diamond cut at 1500 rpm, followed by #83 with a rotary buffer at 1200 rpm and a polishing pad then switch to my DeWalt DA with the same pad and compound. I then switch to #82 with a foam finishing pad and lastly a coat of NXT wax with a foam finishing pad and wipe off by hand.

Here is a good link from Meguiars chat forum about using the various compounds and how to use the rotary buffer:

Learning to use the Rotary Buffer

 

[Jetboy]

Good buffing compounds tend to be $. Sucks, but that's kinda the way it is. For me, I would try buffing first with a fine machine polish like a 3m machine polish. It's stuff you'll buy at a paint supply place, not a auto parts store. That on a fine polish type foam pad. If that doesn't remove the sanding scratches, then go with a rubbing compound on the same type of pad. I'm not sold that you need 15 different types of pads. I find the fine black colored polishing pads work for pretty much everything. YMMV.

Anyway you should get to a nice finish with those two. If you go to the rubbing compound, you'll get cloudy paint that will then need a buffing with a machine polish. Of course don't use both on the same pad. Mark your pads so you know which is for which type of compound.

The reason I'd start with machine polish is that your single stage will be soft compared to clear coat. Especially compared to an OEM clear that's baked on at higher temps than you can do because they are done before plastics are installed. My wife's Lexus oem clear is VERY hard, and takes a good buffing to start to polish it up. OTOH it almost never needs it and it's been very durable. But start with a less aggressive first. It's easy to go to more aggressive. No reason to start too aggressive and do more work than you need. Use a bright flashlight directly down into the paint and look for circular rings to see if you're getting rid of all of the swirl marks. A good final buff shouldn't show any swirls. They'll be a lot harder to see on light paint like that, but a bright light will help.

I've found the machine polish to give as good of polish as I've seen. You may also go another round with a cleaner wax which has just a little abrasiveness. I use a cleaner wax on my 4runner every few months when I do a full wax job, but it's really not necessary.

I can't tell you RPM wise how much to use. I kinda go by feel, and my buffer has a 1-5 scale, no RPM scale.


Oh, and stay away from sharp corners so you don't burn through you paint. Especially places like the louvered areas. I would avoid those entirely or polish by hand.

Good luck.

 

[Anvil]

Thanks guys! That's the exact information I needed. I appreciate the help!!!

 

[Splangy]

I usually start with something around 1500 grit, then go to 2000 and then sometimes a 3000 grit pad before buffing/polishing. I'll then start polishing with a wool pad and a heavy polish before taking it down to a foam pad with finer polishes in two more steps.

 

[UnstableOS]

I usually start with something around 1500 grit, then go to 2000 and then sometimes a 3000 grit pad before buffing/polishing. I'll then start polishing with a wool pad and a heavy polish before taking it down to a foam pad with finer polishes in two more steps.

After painting a vehicle how many hours would you estimate for the final sanding and polishing?