Please help me with my FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 5, 2024
Threads
4
Messages
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Location
Denver, CO
Hey y'all, I have a 1983 FJ60 with 234,000 miles that I bought back in August and I've run into a few problems that I am unsure about. For a little bit of context I'm 16 and bought my LC as a way to work my way into the automotive world. So far I have soaked, acid etched, and resealed the fuel tank and custom fabricated a steel side exit exhaust with a Tundra flowmaster cat and no muffler. After doing these fixes I have been able to drive my FJ60 260 miles a week for a few months but now it has come time to do emissions, which it has already failed twice. Both times it failed the CO2 was 95 and 97 (Colorado limit is 60). Does anyone have thoughts on what I should do to fix this? My first thought was that it is running rich, but I really have no clue. Thank you to anyone who can try to help.
 
Welcome to the forum!
There was and still is an active Toyota factory recall for the original FJ60 gas tank. Ask your Toyota dealer about it. He will check your VIN and see if it has been already done. You can get a brand new gas tank installed by Toyota for free.

High CO2 in your exhaust means the air pump isn't doing its job. It pumps air and O2 into the exhaust stream to allow the catalytic converter to do its job.
 
Thank you! I checked out my air pump and it definitely does not seem to work. I also saw that the solenoid on top of it has the wires cut and wonder if that has something to do with the air pump. Any thoughts on how I can fix this or where to buy replacement parts?
 
Just to clarify you are not referring to the smog pump which is located near the alternator correct? I haven’t been able to find much information on an air pump for an FJ60 but I did find a cross section on my exhaust pipe about a foot and a half back from the manifold which connects to what I originally assumed to be the vacuum pump. Both my smog pump and what I now think is the air pump are both none functional. I think the PR of my LC attempted to desmog it and gave up or something half way through as the belt on the smog pump is not there and some wires to what looks like emissions equipment have been cut. I could go on about how his modifications to the drivers side wiring harness set me up for failure but that is a problem for after emissions.
 
Post some good pics of your engine bay! That should help speed things along for you.
 
Just to clarify you are not referring to the smog pump which is located near the alternator correct? I haven’t been able to find much information on an air pump for an FJ60 but I did find a cross section on my exhaust pipe about a foot and a half back from the manifold which connects to what I originally assumed to be the vacuum pump. Both my smog pump and what I now think is the air pump are both none functional. I think the PR of my LC attempted to desmog it and gave up or something half way through as the belt on the smog pump is not there and some wires to what looks like emissions equipment have been cut. I could go on about how his modifications to the drivers side wiring harness set me up for failure but that is a problem for after emissions.

I think you may be confusing the a/c compressor with the smog pump
the US spec smog pump will be located under the PS pump
there needs to be something in that location, either smog pump or idler pulley, with a belt on it to turn the water pump
the a/c compressor is located under the alternator

pics are needed to assist further
 
Yes, post pics of your engine bay. Likely your smog equipment is no longer working correctly, why most 60 owners in non-emissions areas do a "DeSmog" and remove it.
 
Thank you all for the clarification. Here are some photos of my engine bay, don’t mind the mess of wires, I was taking a look at why my horn didn’t work.

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Some pics past the radiator looking at the engine pulleys and zoomed out view of passenger side
 
Looks like smog parts are present but likely non-functional.

I'd rec starting a thread in one of the clubhouse forums for Colorado and see what folks there have done to pass emissions with a 60.
 
Thank you all so much, I’ll make sure to check out some threads on colorado emissions.
 
Thank you all so much, I’ll make sure to check out some threads on colorado emissions.
The local TLCA club has their own forum - Rising Sun. That being said, I'm in Denver daily driving a 60, and here's some thoughts (that I post on every single "help, I can't pass emissions!" thread)...

There are three very key things.
1. Baseline that motor: replace the air filter and spark plugs (maybe the spark plug wires too), set the timing properly, set the valves properly, do the "lean drop" carb tuning method, and change the engine oil and filter. I see you have the magical discontinued special oil filter on your motor, so if that's recently been put on keep it. If it's old, take it off, drain the oil, and put it on the shelf because it's kind of a cool historical thing you can't get anymore. All the procedures for baselining can be found here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/ For a 1983 FJ60, I prefer the 1980 printing of that manual, but I can't find the PDF right now. This 1991 printing will be fine.

2. The Emissions Factory Service Manual, available in PDF form for free here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-emission-control-1981-36043e.138/

3. This graph below. It's never failed to accurately explain why somebody failed. It's been right every time I've used it or suggested it to other people.
1733851845943.png


Do the baseline stuff as described.

These trucks need almost every component in the emissions system to work properly to pass stringent IM240 (roller) smog testing like we have on the Front Range. The Emissions FSM will details test procedures for every single widget under the hood. You'll look at the manual then look at your engine bay and say "I ain't doing all that! It's way to much! I read somewhere that I can just put some e85 fuel in and it'll be guaranteed to pass!" You need to do it anyway. After you do and after you get everything working, the long term health of your motor and future ability to pass emissions testing will thank you. Don't put band aids on problems because you'll just chase your tail down the road. Plus the Emissions manual spells it all out for you. It's the world's best and easiest cheat sheet for these trucks. Why venture off into the unknown with undocumented hacks? Sometimes those hacks have their place, but it's not as a bandaid for untested emissions equipment.

After you get all of that stuff working, run through the emissions testing center again. Compare your results to that graph I posted above. See if you're running rich or lean. Then compare that to the systems in the Emissions FSM. Think about what those systems are doing. Smog pump leans the mixture out during certain times. EGR actually richens the mixture at certain times. Etc, etc. If you're running rich try to pinpoint why. Same if you're running lean. Remember that the tuning you can do on the carb only affects the idle. These trucks will pass emissions with stock jets, so don't get carried away with that. That's sort of a "I've exhausted all opportunities" thing.

There are some other finer-grain things beyond this, and yes some hacks. Do the above three first. You may end up needing a carb rebuild, but figure out the other stuff first and try to get it to pass.

And come to a Rising Sun meeting some time - first Wednesday of the month. We need more 60s!
 

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