Please be gentle - oil question

[TeCKis300]

According to the engineering guy on youtube, it's generally OK to go heavier on the high temperature viscosity, or lighter on the low temp viscosity, but not the other way around. You should be OK.

I don't know enough to take a position on the OPs question.

To this point, I think there's a great opportunity out there with 0W-30 on higher mileage or more heavily laden cruisers.

 

[TheComedian]

To a certain extent, the oil question is often overrated depending on what intervals you set. The friend I got my Land Cruiser from always bought the cheapest oil for diesel engines he could find but changed it every 6,000km. The engine now has 300,000km down and runs perfectly.

 

[bloc]

To a certain extent, the oil question is often overrated depending on what intervals you set. The friend I got my Land Cruiser from always bought the cheapest oil for diesel engines he could find but changed it every 6,000km. The engine now has 300,000km down and runs perfectly.

And which engine. Toyota has a history of building engines that are easy on the oil. That isn’t on accident, with one design example being large sumps for the ones that work hard.

“PD” series TDI VW engines needed very specific and often hard to source oil standards due to a special camshaft design, and even when using it, and changing it early, were notorious for destroying those camshafts.

We don’t have much to worry about with regard to lubrication in our engines.

 

[Fisher23]

The TDI VW is not the only one with cam shift wearing off the lobs at around 130k, the Dodge Ram gas engines have been wearing off the cam lobs at 70k "with using the right oil and maintenance schedule." I've personally seen a few of these.

I would be nice to know that 0w-40 M1 is good to go in the LC200 engines as I have cases of it that I use in my diesel engines.

 

[bloc]

The TDI VW is not the only one with cam shift wearing off the lobs at around 130k, the Dodge Ram gas engines have been wearing off the cam lobs at 70k "with using the right oil and maintenance schedule." I've personally seen a few of these.

I would be nice to know that 0w-40 M1 is good to go in the LC200 engines as I have cases of it that I use in my diesel engines.

I’m not sure I would run it long term on a 13+ due to the changes like phosphorous and potential for impact to the catalysts.. or at least without good info from someone more knowledgeable on the subject.

 

[TheComedian]

And which engine. Toyota has a history of building engines that are easy on the oil. That isn’t on accident, with one design example being large sumps for the ones that work hard.

“PD” series TDI VW engines needed very specific and often hard to source oil standards due to a special camshaft design, and even when using it, and changing it early, were notorious for destroying those camshafts.

We don’t have much to worry about with regard to lubrication in our engines.

Ah forgott. The 4,5l Diesel

 

[grinchy]

I use 0w-30. Engine hasn’t exploded yet! But it’s only been about 3k miles. . . On the second oil change with the 0w-30.

 

[NKP Garage]

I run that same Euro spec Mobil1 0w40 all the time since I tow often. Most places it's branded as Mobil1 FS 0w40. Has the second highest content of lubricants of any Mobil1 oil spec'd for vehicles with catalytic converters. The highest is Mobil1 15w50, but that is a bit too thick for the engines in our 200 series. Mine runs much smoother with less engine noise with the 0w40. I switched back to 0w20 over the winter since I wasn't towing the boat, and I didn't like it at all, very noticeable difference.. Back to 0w40.