Pioneer HU install help

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I tried two PAC-SNI -1 Noise Isolators today. These actually made the buzz worse. I do not recommend using these along with the factory amp. I will continue to research and try solutions, but I suspect I'll end up pulling the factory amp.
 
Sorry for thread Jack but I heard that 98 LX 470's are virtually impossible to change out the head units on cause of wiring issues... Any one actually change the HU on a 98.
 
Thanks Supra, I have it installed without illumination wire connected for now. I do notice a lot of buzz or interference in the radio I suppose I need a filter as well!?? Ehh...should have just paid a pro!!

Also, the antenna doesn't go all the way up, Im sure this is because I had to combine the two wires and it may be not getting enough voltage. FM reception is poor but hope it improves once I receive my adapter to run my rear antenna with the front.

Ok, so the wiring diagram shows illumination as being green on terminal 2 of the factory stereo connector.

The buzz you're hearing is from the mis-matched grounds. For some reason Toyota used some sort of isolated ground for the factory head unit that comes from the factory amp. The problem is that the aftermarket head units have grounded enclosures so they try to ground themselves to the vehicle ground. On the 100 series Land Cruiser, vehicle ground is not head unit ground. It's dumb, but that's how it is. A really good filter MIGHT solve the problem, but good filters like that are expensive. The most economical option is to bypass the factory amp. You can bypass it any number of ways from crude to professional. Even a hack job bypassing the amp is better than trying to use that damn factory amp with an aftermarket head unit. Check out my video below:



I tried two PAC-SNI -1 Noise Isolators today. These actually made the buzz worse. I do not recommend using these along with the factory amp. I will continue to research and try solutions, but I suspect I'll end up pulling the factory amp.

That's good to know. I was curious how well those would work. I have heard the cheap ones are pretty worthless. Sounds like your experience verifies that.

Sorry for thread Jack but I heard that 98 LX 470's are virtually impossible to change out the head units on cause of wiring issues... Any one actually change the HU on a 98.

I don't see why they would be. The more recent years have issues because of the navigation units having HVAC controls integrated into the head unit. I don't think they offered that until later years though. If you have a non-navigation head unit I don't think swapping out head units is a huge deal - aside from likely needing to bypass the factory amp.
 
Sorry for thread Jack but I heard that 98 LX 470's are virtually impossible to change out the head units on cause of wiring issues... Any one actually change the HU on a 98.

What I know is very little, but I have heard that the '98 & '99 LX w/ Nakamichi are on their own, as no one makes a harness. You are cutting your factory connector off and then hard wiring every connection. So not impossible, just more difficult.
 
Ok, so the wiring diagram shows illumination as being green on terminal 2 of the factory stereo connector.

The buzz you're hearing is from the mis-matched grounds. For some reason Toyota used some sort of isolated ground for the factory head unit that comes from the factory amp. The problem is that the aftermarket head units have grounded enclosures so they try to ground themselves to the vehicle ground. On the 100 series Land Cruiser, vehicle ground is not head unit ground. It's dumb, but that's how it is. A really good filter MIGHT solve the problem, but good filters like that are expensive. The most economical option is to bypass the factory amp. You can bypass it any number of ways from crude to professional. Even a hack job bypassing the amp is better than trying to use that damn factory amp with an aftermarket head unit. Check out my video below:





That's good to know. I was curious how well those would work. I have heard the cheap ones are pretty worthless. Sounds like your experience verifies that.



I don't see why they would be. The more recent years have issues because of the navigation units having HVAC controls integrated into the head unit. I don't think they offered that until later years though. If you have a non-navigation head unit I don't think swapping out head units is a huge deal - aside from likely needing to bypass the factory amp.


Thanks again Supra, I will try bypassing the amp and see how it goes, although it seems the buzz is not quit as bad as it was. So green for illumination, I will give that a try as well. Thanks again!
 
I tried two PAC-SNI -1 Noise Isolators today. These actually made the buzz worse. I do not recommend using these along with the factory amp. I will continue to research and try solutions, but I suspect I'll end up pulling the factory amp.

Thanks for that update Warrior, I have read a few reviews and it looks like you have to spend a good chunk of $$ to remove a little buzz. May just deal with it or bypass amp. Thanks!
 
Supra-
Would it be possible for you to share the wire diagram for the amp? I'd like to bypass the amp but haven't found the diagram for my '99. Looks like you are using a paper copy of the FSM, I need to pick one of those up. Thanks.
 
Supra-
Would it be possible for you to share the wire diagram for the amp? I'd like to bypass the amp but haven't found the diagram for my '99. Looks like you are using a paper copy of the FSM, I need to pick one of those up. Thanks.

Yeah, I have a paperback copy of the EWD. I can try to get some scans or photos of the diagrams. I'd recommend one for sure. I also need to get the Repair Manuals, but haven't had an excuse to pick them up. Damn thing is just too reliable to think about repairs, haha.
 
Thanks for that update Warrior, I have read a few reviews and it looks like you have to spend a good chunk of $$ to remove a little buzz. May just deal with it or bypass amp. Thanks!

Yeah, while the buzz was tolerable for a little while, I ended up bypassing the factory amp for a couple years (this means no subwoofer). Sounded Okay and gave me bluetooth. Eventually I put in a JL Audio XD700/5v2 amp with Polk Audio MM6501 and MM651 speakers and kept the factory sub.
 
Bringing back a old thread! Ever since the Pioneer install reception has been average, I can't find an adapter where I can run both antennas. Has anyone upgraded there antenna to a aftermarket one that gives better reception? Thanks!
 
It's the grey wire which is pin 3,sorry for confusion! Checked all fuses as well. I sm getting power from 3 but nowhere else and neither radio working. Is there a fuse on amp under passenger seat? Would that kill all power?

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