- Thread starter
- #41
I am looking for maxxis bighorns. Everyone is talking me into 255-85-r16s. Right now i have 265-75-16s on them.
Any thought?
Any thought?
pillguy's 4runner build (with pics) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter pillguy
- Start date
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Looking good, I got inspired and bought another 3rd gen that is already modded but has some issues to work out. I'm sure we'll meet up at an event sometime.
Super Swampers would look pretty rockin' on your truck!
smittycrusher
"Hey big guy, you a golfer" - Roger Dorn
I am going to be getting five 315/75/16 Maxxis Big Horns from a shop in Alpharetta in a couple of weeks. The Ga Cruiser discount gets them to me @ $966 Out the door. You should call the shop and ask about the 255-85-16s. They will be even cheaper and are a great tire for your truck. I think that you will be very happy with that size.
Performance Tire in Alpharetta 770-667-9847
Ask for Dave - Tell him that Smitty from the GA cruisers sent you. He will take good care of you.
Smit
Hey man. I like the looks of your 4Runner. I just joined the forums over here on ih8mud but I'm on ultimateyota and yotatech as well. I noticed you live over in Brookhaven. I actually live right down the road in Sandy Springs off Riverside Drive. I think I've seen you driving around actually over near Chastain maybe. I have a lifted silver 02 with a taco ARB and a winch too. Let me know if you ever need help with anything. Always willing to lend an extra hand.
- Thread starter
- #46
Thanks for the compliment and offer. I may have seen you (silver taco with a roll cage or some sort of black cover rolled up on it?) on roswell road. THere are a lot of landcruisers in the area, but I think the betty buckheads may get ben out of shape if the get any mud on their tires.
Actually, now just moved to Roswell so some may see me in the up in that neck of the woods.
Actually, now just moved to Roswell so some may see me in the up in that neck of the woods.
- Thread starter
- #47
Rear Bumper build
Well,
I bought a welder a while back with the intention of building a rear bumper and then moving got in the way. Now I am just about ready to roll. Bought most of my steel parts over the weekend, but I think I may have to go to 3x5x 3/16" thick steel for main bumper. We will see.
Here are my welds, let me know from the experts out there what you think.
A few of the thick ones are double welded.
another view
and another one
One question I do have is when you are welding say a 6 foot section, do you have to weld the entire seam or just sections if it is not a high strength area. Reason I ask is I am concerned with warpage.
A
Well,
I bought a welder a while back with the intention of building a rear bumper and then moving got in the way. Now I am just about ready to roll. Bought most of my steel parts over the weekend, but I think I may have to go to 3x5x 3/16" thick steel for main bumper. We will see.
Here are my welds, let me know from the experts out there what you think.
A few of the thick ones are double welded.
another view
and another one
One question I do have is when you are welding say a 6 foot section, do you have to weld the entire seam or just sections if it is not a high strength area. Reason I ask is I am concerned with warpage.
A
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
I'm certainly no expert on welding (Josh will attest to that) but I do ok. If you're concerned about warpage weld a spot and then move to the other end, weld another spot and work your way around. I think it's called a "skip weld" but those who know will set me straight I'm sure.
Andrew,
Ted's advice is on target. Also; your design, material selection and welder (stick versus MIG or TIG) may be critical for welding techniques. If you can arrange it, you may want to review your design and plans with an experienced fabricator to fine tune the details.
Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
- Thread starter
- #50
Larry,
Sounds good. I am using some pictures of designs I found on mud and yotatech. I will have to pull a few pics together and post them. I do not have a real design, just using pics and going from there. So far am using 1/4" angle plate for frame attachment and 3/16" everywhere else. I will get a few things up soon and get some feedback from all.
A
Sounds good. I am using some pictures of designs I found on mud and yotatech. I will have to pull a few pics together and post them. I do not have a real design, just using pics and going from there. So far am using 1/4" angle plate for frame attachment and 3/16" everywhere else. I will get a few things up soon and get some feedback from all.
A
- Thread starter
- #51
Here is what I am considering along with a gas carrier.
Start from Post 12
https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/291658-looking-rear-bumpers.html
And the simplicity of this one
Start from Post 12
https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/291658-looking-rear-bumpers.html
And the simplicity of this one
Andrew,
Don't forget about your recovery points. The bumper that you provided the picture of is using ~3/4 inch thick material for the recovery points. That seems to be the standard that you see on most bumpers. For the bumpers on the BJ70, I only used 1/2 inch but my recovery points are also my frame attachments. This lead to my use of 1/2 inch material because it offered more dimensional options for the raw stock and suitability for the application. You will be working through those details and a number of others as you dive in.
- Thread starter
- #53
pics?
Larry,
Got any pics of your bumper and recovery points?
Larry,
Got any pics of your bumper and recovery points?
Andrew,
I don't have any build pictures that I could find, but I did have this CAD picture where I was trying to explain (illustrate) my concept to friends before starting the build. I was looking for their input and ideas to refine my design before starting just like you are doing now.
- Thread starter
- #55
Larry,
Very helpful picture and strength gained by the thick attachment points are a good idea. I have 3/4"tow points from iron pig,
but they would not be long enough to mount to the frame as they are about 3.5" x 6" overall.
My plan is to cut into the 2x5 tube steel bar to mount the tow points and the hitch receiver, I guess some surgical cutting into it. I could tie the 4" angle iron to them and weld the entire thing together.
I also have to weld this spindle assembly as well so I am figuring to cut a small section (one side) out of the steel bar so I would have some additional places to weld it. Its hard to tell from some of the pictures via web
Let me know what you think. I am on a clock on this one because I cannot take as long to make a decision like I did with my tires... LOL!!
Anyone else care to comment.
Very helpful picture and strength gained by the thick attachment points are a good idea. I have 3/4"tow points from iron pig,
but they would not be long enough to mount to the frame as they are about 3.5" x 6" overall.
My plan is to cut into the 2x5 tube steel bar to mount the tow points and the hitch receiver, I guess some surgical cutting into it. I could tie the 4" angle iron to them and weld the entire thing together.
I also have to weld this spindle assembly as well so I am figuring to cut a small section (one side) out of the steel bar so I would have some additional places to weld it. Its hard to tell from some of the pictures via web
Let me know what you think. I am on a clock on this one because I cannot take as long to make a decision like I did with my tires... LOL!!
Anyone else care to comment.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
You can also use the receiver hitch as a recovery point as long as you reinforce the welds and make it strong.
Andrew,
The DIY recovery points from IronPig seem long enough to pass through your bumper. What I mean is you would cut aligned holes through the fwd and aft surfaces of the tube, so you could weld the perimeter the recovery point to both surfaces. The result would be more weld surface attaching the recovery point, plus the recovery points would be welded to a total of 3/8" of material with the final welded tube-recovery point would be more rigid than the basic tube section.
The spindle could be similar, but it will be driven by the integration of your bumper geometry (including the tire carrier) and the contraints of the body. Here is where I lean heavily on pictures/drawings to sort through the details before starting the build.
- Thread starter
- #58
I was thinking that as well, kinda a trilogy. Probably overkill on my end of things.
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
Of the 3 bumpers I've built, all of the shackle recovery mounts go thru the bumper & attach to the frame via 3/4" grade 8 bolts. The top one's w/ the shackles are for the 40 & the other 4 are for the 
I used 2 pieces of 3/8" for the 40's mounts & 1/4" for the I'm using a receiver mounted shackle for the rear of the 40 as I only have bumperettes. It's bolted to a 1/4" channel running transverse on the frame using 4 grade 8 1/2" bolts. Just another 
for 'ya. I wanted to take the load off the bumper when a snatch block will be used & rely on the shear strength of the bolts & material used. Build is lookin real good so far 
<EDIT> Found some old pics of how they look mounted up on the
I used 2 pieces of 3/8" for the 40's mounts & 1/4" for the I'm using a receiver mounted shackle for the rear of the 40 as I only have bumperettes. It's bolted to a 1/4" channel running transverse on the frame using 4 grade 8 1/2" bolts. Just another for 'ya. I wanted to take the load off the bumper when a snatch block will be used & rely on the shear strength of the bolts & material used. Build is lookin real good so far <EDIT> Found some old pics of how they look mounted up on the
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #60
Guys,
These are great ideas. One challenge with the 4runner is the frame does not extend to end of body, about 3" short I think. Hence, using 1/4" right angle bracket butted up against the bar and welded. I am envisioning 2 options
1) I could get fancy and do a cut out (on right angle frame bracket) so the bar lays on top of the horizontal portion of the right angle bracket and it would increase the welding area
2) Cut some 3/16" plate triangles and weld to bottom of both tube and right angle bracket.
Thoughts?
I may mock this up on scrap and post a few pics when I get back....
These are great ideas. One challenge with the 4runner is the frame does not extend to end of body, about 3" short I think. Hence, using 1/4" right angle bracket butted up against the bar and welded. I am envisioning 2 options
1) I could get fancy and do a cut out (on right angle frame bracket) so the bar lays on top of the horizontal portion of the right angle bracket and it would increase the welding area
2) Cut some 3/16" plate triangles and weld to bottom of both tube and right angle bracket.
Thoughts?
I may mock this up on scrap and post a few pics when I get back....