Pics Wanted: Your tent/trailer setup

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DieselB - forgive the newbie question - However, what wheels are those?? I'm looking into the SOA hub swap route for my M101 and those look like what I'm looking for.

TIA
 
DieselB - forgive the newbie question - However, what wheels are those?? I'm looking into the SOA hub swap route for my M101 and those look like what I'm looking for.

TIA

I'm running 35" MTR's on 15x8 - 3.5" BS black rockcrawler wheels. I did the hub swap to 6x5.5 Cruiser bolt pattern
 
dieselbigot-

I love your trailer!

I had a question for you about your lid latch. I bought a set of those paddle latches to use but they let water run through like a drain, did you modify yours somehow?

I am also interested on how you hinged the lid and your gas strut placement.

thanks!

Drew
 
Hey there Devil Dog, met you at SnT2006. Very nice rig. Tan 60.
:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
These trailers are great! These pictures have given be some ideas for my own setup. I hope you’re willing to help out a poor cousin. I realize that I’m starting out on a bad footing, but I own a Sankey, and I want to build a “camper” that I can tow behind a series Rover with a whopping 67HP engine. My goal is to do the Trans-Taiga Road this summer. I’ll need to carry lots of supplies and repair parts, and I really-really don’t want to sleep on the ground on a long trip like this.

I’m hoping to get some advice like;

Is there an advantage to hinging the lid on the front instead of the side?

How do you vent the trailer? If you have to put your gear away wet, how do you dry things out on a trip?

If you put a roll cage with the tent on top, does it mess with the center of gravity? Can you take the trailer off road with the tent mounted up there?

Thanks in advance

Dan H
Pembroke, MA
Dan@landy67.com
marine.gif
 
Ive just got this one and took it to the beach over christmas

Should have bougt one years ago.
Comfortable, Dry, Easy and built like a outback dunny (I am in love)
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These trailers are great! These pictures have given be some ideas for my own setup. I hope you’re willing to help out a poor cousin. I realize that I’m starting out on a bad footing, but I own a Sankey, and I want to build a “camper” that I can tow behind a series Rover with a whopping 67HP engine. My goal is to do the Trans-Taiga Road this summer. I’ll need to carry lots of supplies and repair parts, and I really-really don’t want to sleep on the ground on a long trip like this.

I’m hoping to get some advice like;

Is there an advantage to hinging the lid on the front instead of the side?

QUOTE]

I'll take this one since I get asked this a lot. For me, this was two-fold. First, I was cutting a tailgate into mine, and the M416's tub is made of thin metal. I didn't want a lot of leverage on the cut panel. Second and most importantly, the lid hinged at the front allows me access to the trailer from three sides while it's hitched, which a lot more practical at the campsite than walking around it, especially in wooded areas.
 
Exiled's right about the trailer being flimsy once you cut in a tail gate. The trailer I just picked up loses all of it's rigidity when you open the gate. I plan on somehow beefing up the sides and putting a lid on it like Henry's.

These trailers are great! These pictures have given be some ideas for my own setup. I hope you’re willing to help out a poor cousin. I realize that I’m starting out on a bad footing, but I own a Sankey, and I want to build a “camper” that I can tow behind a series Rover with a whopping 67HP engine. My goal is to do the Trans-Taiga Road this summer. I’ll need to carry lots of supplies and repair parts, and I really-really don’t want to sleep on the ground on a long trip like this.

I’m hoping to get some advice like;

Is there an advantage to hinging the lid on the front instead of the side?

QUOTE]

I'll take this one since I get asked this a lot. For me, this was two-fold. First, I was cutting a tailgate into mine, and the M416's tub is made of thin metal. I didn't want a lot of leverage on the cut panel. Second and most importantly, the lid hinged at the front allows me access to the trailer from three sides while it's hitched, which a lot more practical at the campsite than walking around it, especially in wooded areas.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I had been thinking about cutting a tailgate in, but I hadn’t thought about it making the sides weaker. I’ll rethink the need for the tailgate.

I spent some time loading and moving totes in the base of the trailer, and I think I’m going to have to hinge the lid on the side. I won’t be able to easily move totes past the fender wells, and I don’t think I’d get much leverage unless I can get the lid to lift past 50 degrees. That would make it hard to open and close.

I don’t know if you folks have seen a Sankey trailer. It’s an ugly box that measures 55” X 72” X 18” mounted on a ¾ ton chassis with three legs that will hold it level when it isn’t attached to a truck. It takes the same wheels as the truck, and it has mechanical breaks which is good because the truck doesn’t have a lot of stopping poser. I think the trailer is close to an M101, just uglier, but I think it will make a good base to mount a roof tent on.

Here’s a couple of before pictures;
P1284035.jpg

P1154033.jpg

Dan H
Pembroke, MA
dan@landy67.com
 
I've always loved the Sankey trailer, I like the design with the integrated wheel wells instead of fenders, because it allows you to secure cargo *inside* instead of lashed to the sides (once you have a steel lid).

I wouldn't be afraid to cut a tailgate into it, just be mindful that you'll probably have to reinforce the sides of the tub so maintain rigidity. I personally think the tailgate is a HUGE improvement, especially since my trailer is tall.

You don't see many Sankey's in the US, and none outside of the Land Rover crowd. How much does one of them go for? I think this is an even better platform than an M416 if you want to convert the trailer to an expedition setup.

A few years ago one of the bigger Land Rover vendors in the UK (I want to say Craddock, but I can't remember exactly) bought out the last batch of de-mobbed Sankey's from the British Military and the glut in the market got the price down to a couple of hundred pounds, and some of them had never been used. I assume that all the top choices have been taken but I've often wondered what the outcome of a modified Sankey would be.

Cheers and welcome to the forum, BTW, Land Rover and Land Cruiser enthusiasts may rib at each other often but I see us as pretty close cousins...but maybe that's just me, one of my top five dream cars is a fully-restored Series I 80", in the same green as "Huey"!
 
A few years ago one of the bigger Land Rover vendors in the UK (I want to say Craddock, but I can't remember exactly) bought out the last batch of de-mobbed Sankey's from the British Military and the glut in the market got the price down to a couple of hundred pounds, and some of them had never been used. I assume that all the top choices have been taken but I've often wondered what the outcome of a modified Sankey would be.

Cheers and welcome to the forum, BTW, Land Rover and Land Cruiser enthusiasts may rib at each other often but I see us as pretty close cousins...but maybe that's just me, one of my top five dream cars is a fully-restored Series I 80", in the same green as "Huey"![/QUOTE]


Hey Exiled,
Good to see another "traitor" on the board! I too, am a Land Rover fan. I have had quite a few of the old Series Rovers. Several 88's and a 5 door 109". I still have a 1956 Series I 107" pickup. They are fairly rare here in the US. It runs/drives as is but someday I'll get around to restoring her. Got to finish all my Cruiser projects first :)
 
.... I like the design with the integrated wheel wells instead of fenders, because it allows you to secure cargo *inside* instead of lashed to the sides (once you have a steel lid)... I personally think the tailgate is a HUGE improvement, especially since my trailer is tall... I think this is an even better platform than an M416 if you want to convert the trailer to an expedition setup.

You don't see many Sankey's in the US, and none outside of the Land Rover crowd. How much does one of them go for?
x2 on first para, link for second: http://www.skytoprover.com/sankey.htm
$1050 in PA

interior dimensions? (can ya' carry plywood flat on top of inside fenders?)

me want one!
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the welcome. I agree, there just ain’t no reason for bad blood between Rover owners and the Toyota guys. Toyota was my last daily driver, and it’s going to be my next. When I was looking for a project, I looked at Rover 88’s and FJ40’s. In my area it’s easier to find a rover in good shape because of the aluminum bodies. We use lots of salt on the roads and it takes a toll on older cars.

About the Sankey, be careful of Skytop Rover. That picture has been on the website for the last four years. When I went there to buy the trailer two years ago, the guy couldn’t find it on the lot. If you really want one send an e-mail to fcwrecker@aol.com. He has a couple of ¾ ton and a few 1 ton models that are in great shape. If you contact Howard about the trailers, please tell him you heard about him from “pony tail dude.” Maybe he’ll go a little easier on me at next years off road event. (ask about Guy Fawkes weekend)
1 ton Sankey

I found a bunch of un-issued UN Sankey trailers last year. They were unassembled, and still in wooden crates. They were getting $350 for the ¾ ton and $450 for the one ton with tailgate. These things came with covers, hoop set tires, manuals, everything! They guaranteed me that they could fit 10 in a container, and they thought they could fit twenty of the ¾ ton. It was going to cost $4K shipping to have the crate landed in Boston (maximum $400 per trailer.) I found lots of people who wanted the trailers, but no-one was willing to pony up any money. The deal didn’t happen.

From the looks of things, a Sankey is about the same price as the stuff you guys are used to. I bought mine very inexpensive, but they usually go between $1K and $1.5K a little higher for the 1 ton model in good shape. They have manual serge brakes which makes up for the tow vehicle which barely has brakes at all. As for plywood, the inside dimensions of the ¾ ton is 4’4” by 6’, just about the same measurements as my old T100. The plywood won’t fit flat inside the trailer, but you can fit a dozen sheets inside, with 40 8’ studs on top. They’ll sit on the back of the trailer, just like my old truck.

I got to work on mine a little this weekend, and I was impressed with what I found. The paint is in many layers. It was RAF blue, then UN white, MOD green and Camo on top of it all. I also found a bullet hole that had been repaired in the front of the trailer. I wonder what color it was when people were shooting at it.

Again, thanks for the warm welcome

Dan H
Pembroke, MA
dan@landy67.com
happyrovering.jpg
 
I'd like to revive this thread, as this is where it all started for several of us on the Trailer Tech forum. Any new ideas for your tent setups? I am working to get mine completed in the next 7-10 days. Here is the rough draft of where I am so far...

I have finished with the hinges and the deck, and I need to finish sealing and painting the deck prior to installing the lock hardware and tent (although I temporarily put it on for the attached pics). I am really looking forward to my first outing with this thing.

ever shoot any pics of the wood sealed? also how did you mount the wood top to the trailer?
 
I don't think I have any pics of the wood sealed prior to painting. Here are a few shots of how the rest of it worked. I ran galvanized screws deep into the 2x6s for hinge support. The lid is solid as a rock now. I also reinforced it underneath with steel studs, galvanized carriage bolts which also double as a supprt for the brackets that hold the tent.
DSC02044[1].webp
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