pic's of rebuilding a 13B-T

[2 Bees]

Align all the timing gears with the timing marks. Oil the gears and automatic timer outer bearing.

 

[2 Bees]

Does anybody know what these rubber spacers are really for?

 

[2 Bees]

In water now gradually heat the timing cover to about 140 F. to expand the automatic timer front bearing support bore. Install the timing cover.

 

[xtremitys]

So are'nt the 3B & 13BT Pistons different ? if you put a direct 13BT head on a 3B , won't that shoot the compression thru the roof as the 3B head has a swirl/pre-combustion chamber in the head & the 13Bt does'nt ?

cheers for the photos, i see the difference between the block in a 14B & 13BT now .

If you use a Synthetic oil in a pre 90's diesle engine , would'nt you have to tighten up the tolerances on an engine designed for use with a mineral oil ( modify engine to suit ) ? , have heard of engine failure from purelly a change in oil , especially race motors .

 

[2 Bees]

Yep you guy's are correct. I must of had an mid-age brain fart again. The pistons, wrist pins, injectors and injector pump are all different. It's like comparing apples to oranges.

:whoops: Yep. You are correct on the 3B & 13B-T engines.


We've never had any problems with Synthetic Oils. First off you must break-in the engine on Dino Oil first. If you don't the rings won't seat.

We use AmsOil in all our engines sense 1972. Plus the 72 FJ40 original F engine has had Synthetic sense she was new with 750,000 ruff miles on her, she pulls 3 tons of bees hives into the back country mountains every summer. The 68 Mack (big rig) received Synthetic in 74 without any problems.

On the race engines we race one or two races on Dino to break-in then we switch to Synthetic for the rest of the season. For the internals of the engines the ring gaps are increased 0.005 to reduce drag. Some teams ceramic coat their bearings 0.001 or 0.002 we see no need to because of the Synthetic Oils superior lubrication qualities

 

[xtremitys]

just a question of my own ( same topic ) , I will be building a 13BT sometime soon , i have a 14B ( forged steel ) crank & will dropping the 14B crank into the 13BT ( after machine work and all ) , it has a 6mm longer stroke , I am tossing up between gettn custom forged rods ( 6mm shorter ) , or going custom forged pistons , feel that if i get the rods then i can always use the stock pistons - what do you reckn ?

also planning on using a 14BT front cover for bigger oil pump plus it has the vacuum pump & power steering in there too ( already have the front cover & power steering & vacuum pump off the 14B ) - will this work ?

whats Dino oil ( coming from Aussie & NZ ) , is that break in oil ?

 

[2 Bees]

It should work with the late model 13B-T (13B) block which will have the correct main & rod bearings. From the research I've done on the 13B-T blocks, there are three different blocks for the 13B-T. Here in North America we don't get many 13B, 13B-T & 14B the ones we do get are from overseas. I do have some info below for you. You will have to figure out which block you have.

Forged pistons = $$$, depending on the application they can go any where from $300 to well over $5000 per set.

Dino oil is black gold or petroleum

Hope this helps


13B & 13B-T blocks
9/84 - 4/88, mains 11701-56010, rods 13041-58010
4/88 - 3/89 mains 11701-56010, rods 13041-56040
3/89 - 12/92 mains 11701-56020, rods 13041-56040

14B block
8/88 - 12/99 mains 11701-56020, rods 13041-56040


main bearings
11701-56010, bearing width 27.6mm (1.087)
11701-56020, bearing width 26.9mm (1.059)

rod bearings
13041-58010, bearing width 30mm (1.181), has 4mm oil hole
13041-56040, bearing width 30mm (1.181), has oil slot

 

[2 Bees]

Just received turbo and exhaust manifold back from being Ceramic Coated. Plus the rebuilt and balanced CHRA assembly.

 

[2 Bees]

Assembling the Turbo

 

[2 Bees]

view of waste gate side

 

[PurpleFJ62]

Bees, I have a turbo question for you. Not toyota diesel but on my turbo ricer. Anyways I have the turbo off the car and doing a full high performace rebuild, so I was checking the turbo for shaft play and all the other visual checks. My wastegate acutator will not move by hand, now I know the spring inside is set for 11psi, dosent seem like it would be to stuff...? This makes sense because I was getting boost creep on high rpms before it blew the engine up.

Can you move your wastegare by hand with the acutator fully assembled?

thanks for any help, -nate-

 

[Tapage]

Actually if you can move your wastegate by hand are get close enought ( not enought firm ) to keep boost at low press ..

In need to use wrenches and compresor to clin on the actuator. ( K26.6 )