pic's of rebuilding a 13B-T

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OK, lets try this and see what happens.

installing main bearing
P4210054-a.jpg
 
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i hope you put "cam grease" on the mains, did you resleeve it, or were they within spec. the first pic has the origial sleeves right? thanks for posting
aaron
 
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Nope, don't use cam (moly) lube because it causes to many problems like it will clog the oil filter with-in minuts. We use assembly honey in our race engines. The bores are with-in specs and yes those are the original sleeves.
 
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The bore may be in spec but from the pictures it looks like a bit of honeing to re establish the crosshatching would have certainly benefited the rings. AT fluid is a good thing to use when installing the pistons and rings. Do you use Plastigage on your race engines or mice them properly? Usually here they measure everything with a micrometer on diesel motors to get exact tolerances as plastigage is considered doing it rough. cheers
 
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The bore may be in spec but from the pictures it looks like a bit of honeing to re establish the crosshatching would have certainly benefited the rings. AT fluid is a good thing to use when installing the pistons and rings. Do you use Plastigage on your race engines or mice them properly? Usually here they measure everything with a micrometer on diesel motors to get exact tolerances as plastigage is considered doing it rough. cheers

crushed plastiguage works i agree on running the crosshatching the rings like it nice to see it last another 500,000 thanks for showing the tolerence on the crank
 
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Yes, we honed the bores. The original crosshatch was still present so we did a light hone with 800 grit stones to break the varnish. We do use ATF after honing it really grabs the crap out of the bores when cleaning them

. When installing the pistons we use ATF and use the piston dunk in can method full of ATF.

The crank journals are standard and micro polished to 600 grit. When using plastigage anything more than 0.0025 we will mic

This Engine Specs
mains oil clearance 0.0019
rods oil clearance 0.0024
thrust end play 0.0021
bore wear less than 0.0015
 
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Cool. The top picture looked as if the bore was left as is in the picture glad you took the hone to it.. I am not familiar with how much soot that motor puts in the oil but going back to the 3B and 2H motors because of relatively poor combustion at times caused from injectors, injection pump and partly from design they deposit a fairly large amount of soot in the oil. Which when the detergent becomes saturated deposits on ring lands and bore and forms some sludge in the sump causing uneven bore wear. Also when the bore is glazed , usually worst at mid piston stroke this will cause problems for the rings if left not honed. There is usually very little to worry about with the 3B ,2H motors and their cousins as far as bearings go, both mains and conrod.All have big bearings with a main either side.
That's a great little donk, am looking forward to some more pictures, cheers
 
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The carbon and soot is the main reason we use100% synthetic oils & TP by pass oil filters on all our engines. You wouldn't beleave how dirty the B & F engines are until you start using a good oil filter. This 13B-T will be going into a 72FJ40 with 740,000mi on her.
 
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The carbon and soot is the main reason we use100% synthetic oils & TP by pass oil filters on all our engines. You wouldn't beleave how dirty the B & F engines are until you start using a good oil filter. This 13B-T will be going into a 72FJ40 with 740,000mi on her.

Too right about the filters that's for sure although some of the larger filters lower the oil pressure again at idle. Toyota took a step backwards on the 2H when they removed the centrificial filter off the cruiser although they continued it on the Dyna trucks for some time after that had the 2H motor. They are as scarce as rocking horse s*** now LOL. Seems too many people were complaining about the extra 1/2 hour cost of cleaning it during serviceing by Toyota. cheers
.
Picswithkirk5-5-06123.jpg
 

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