PHH

[Pin_Head]

Don't even fool with the lower bolt. I wasted a lot of time trying to defeat it. Just break off the lower bracket and have your revenge on it.

All you need to do is remove the top hose and top bracket bolt and bend the bracket back 90 degrees and cut the lower hose so you have room to wiggle it back and forth.

From below, cut the hose completely in two with a utility knife and let the fluid drain into a pan. Rotate the lower end of the tube 90 degrees CCW on its vertical axis. to make more room to wiggle it. Don't fool with the hose clamps yet. 10 minutes. If you want to remove the transmission dip stick bracket bolts to make more room for your hand, go ahead, but removing them and reinstalling them will take 10 more minutes.

From the top, rapidly wiggle the tube back and forth about 3 inches until the bracket breaks off. Lift the tube out and cut the clamp and hose from the tube. You can do a step 6 while you are wiggling the tube. 10 minutes

From below, remove the hose clamp with needle nose pliers and remove the hose. This is much easier after you remove the tube because there is more room. 10 minutes

Install 60 mm of hose to the end of the tube and tighten clamp. Put on the other hose clamp and loosely tighten. 10 minutes

From below, install the tube assembly and shove the hose onto the block tube. Tighten other clamp with a gear wrench. This is the hardest part of the whole job. 10 minutes.

Tighten top bolt and reinstall top hose. 5 minutes.

Step 6. 5 minutes. Done.

You can do this in about 60 minutes while drinking two beers.

 

[azTony]

I thought for sure I seen on here somewhere that you can buy the PHH Blue Hose kit (Cdan quickly corrected me that he does not have them). I need to change mine and am looking for the parts. My eyes are killing me trying to read through all of these threads to get to the point I need. Must be getting old.

 

[ralphy1997]

I thought for sure I seen on here somewhere that you can buy the PHH Blue Hose kit (Cdan quickly corrected me that he does not have them). I need to change mine and am looking for the parts. My eyes are killing me trying to read through all of these threads to get to the point I need. Must be getting old.

Search PHH in the vendor section results this: index

 

[azTony]

Thanks ralphy

 

[jvazquez53]

Does the 3FE has these PHHs??

 

[Yotato]

Does the 3FE has these PHHs??

No PHH on the 3FE, just a bunch of vacuum lines instead.

 

[azzzuki]

Just my .02 $...after reading all the post about the fix...i dug in.
1 1/2 hours later it was done.
Lot of good info and if i could only add one thing it would be after u get all the inner fender skirts off grab a hand full of the iner fender and bend it out of the way, not so much to kink it but enough to get your arm in there with a bit more room.
thanks to all for the good info it made a tough job very easy.

 

[RichElliott]

Done and Done.

177k Miles and my '97 started leaking like a sieve.

Took me two evenings of lazy work to fix. Used the blue silicon tube kit from:
1fzfephh.com

1) Drained radiator at the drain plug.
2) Removed top bolt on rear metal tube. Tried to get the bottom one off, but it was next to impossible, so I left it on.
3) Getting the old hose off was a PITA as the clamp was oriented in the worst possible position. Purchased the Sears hose clamp tool and this helped out a ton.
4) After cleaning everything, I used a bunch of dish soap on the new hose to slip it all the way on the bottom of the metal tube. Lined the tube up with the nipple on the engine block and it just slid right on.

Like a proud Dad showing off his new baby:

 

[Grench]

Don't even fool with the lower bolt. I wasted a lot of time trying to defeat it. Just break off the lower bracket and have your revenge on it.

There is a secret to it.

Use a little 4" long 1/4" drive socket wrench on it - but you will have no torque against it reaching in. Instead, brace a 2nd box end wrench over it to pry down and turn it just -that- much to break it free.

It isn't fun - but is perfectly doable assuming you're not too attached to the skin on your arms.

 

[gretzky]

There is a secret to it.

Use a little 4" long 1/4" drive socket wrench on it - but you will have no torque against it reaching in. Instead, brace a 2nd box end wrench over it to pry down and turn it just -that- much to break it free.

It isn't fun - but is perfectly doable assuming you're not too attached to the skin on your arms.

I used a 3/8's flex-head, extended length ratchet and it worked great.

 

[Pin_Head]

There is a secret to it.

Use a little 4" long 1/4" drive socket wrench on it - but you will have no torque against it reaching in. Instead, brace a 2nd box end wrench over it to pry down and turn it just -that- much to break it free.

It isn't fun - but is perfectly doable assuming you're not too attached to the skin on your arms.

Personally, I would prefer to just break the tube bracket off while drinking a beer. It is much easier. If you really want to get that lower bolt out, do it after the tube is out and you have a lot of room to fool with it. Getting the tube out fast and easy is the key to making this an easy job.

 

[AussieRedneck]

I consider myself a decent mechanic, never hire ANYTHING out. It took me about 3 hours and no beers. My arms are skinned (but usually are after a day twisting wrenches) and the new hose is in place. Did my fuel filter while I was in there (another hour and a half). I used what I got off of here, but nothing went as quick as some have said.
Anyway, it is done. Thanks for the help mudders!
AR

 

[waldo2]

I removed the heater control, since I was replacing those heater hoses as well. Then two more bolts, removes that big wiring harness from the firewall. After that it was easy to get a wrench in there and remove the lower bolt.

 

[Grench]

I consider myself a decent mechanic, never hire ANYTHING out. It took me about 3 hours and no beers. My arms are skinned (but usually are after a day twisting wrenches) and the new hose is in place. Did my fuel filter while I was in there (another hour and a half). I used what I got off of here, but nothing went as quick as some have said.
Anyway, it is done. Thanks for the help mudders!
AR

If you're changing both the fuel filter and the PHH on the same day, it would almost be worth it to just take the intake off. The bolts that are only accessible with a real long extension from under the truck though - I think those would be the difference maker.

 

[Flank]

Did my fuel filter while I was in there (another hour and a half). I used what I got off of here, but nothing went as quick as some have said.
Anyway, it is done. Thanks for the help mudders!
AR

If you're changing both the fuel filter and the PHH on the same day, it would almost be worth it to just take the intake off. The bolts that are only accessible with a real long extension from under the truck though - I think those would be the difference maker.

WORD TO THE WISE ON THE FUEL FILTER... you will save yourself MUCH heartache and headache if you loosen the fuel lines BEFORE unbolting the filter from the mounts. Ask me how I know... turned what should have been a 20 minute job into a two hour job. You cannot get enough torque on the filter to loosen the fuel lines if you unbracket the filter first, then it twists.... then you can't bolt it back up due to angle... then you fumble around for some method of clamping it in place, secure enough to get the torque you need on the fuel lines....

 

[jbsax]

Thanks for all the pointers. Pesky isn't a strong enough word for the jewel that Mr. T gave us. If there wasn't already a fire wall heater hose, then FHH would be more appropriate. Took me 3.5 hours, which included gathering tools and cleaning up. I figure second one would probably be 1.5. I read this thread along with what's available on Slee's site. I wound up using a combo of the reccomended paths. I guess they all act differently. My advice is to read and visualize as much as possible before attacking.

 

[spartan]

LOL Haven't been on this board for several months and this PHH thing is still at the top of the heap.

Two other 80 owners and I discussed this some time back and came to the following conclusion:

Unless the truck is your DD and / or you travel extensively in it - wait till the thing splits or leaks - then fix it. One of the aforementioned owners had his start leaking and got a local GAS STATION mechanic to replace it for $75.

Maybe some things are best left to people who know WTH they are doing to start with.

 

[jbsax]

I don't claim to be a pro, and I would be glad to pay $75 to have it fixed. I just have a feeling that the guy that charged $75 only charged that once. My PHH was pregnant and leaking, so it was past due. 14 years isn't bad for a hose though. I'm just glad it is done.

 

[Grench]

Unless the truck is your DD and / or you travel extensively in it

If you aren't using it - then why have it?

I guess I'd rather have a known issue already solved rather than rely on a tow truck getting to me in the dead of winter on a side road - but hey, if that's your choice, not my problem.

I consider the PHH and all the rest of the hoses + belts + coolant flush + changing the oil + changing the transmission fluid + freshening the brake fluid + filling the washer bottle + changing out the alternator brushes + changing the air filter to a washable Toyota one + a new PCV + new plugs + new cap & rotor + new plug wires + new brake pads + new tires (if needed) + new gear oil in the transfer and diffs to all be part of the 'baseline' I like to get done and through when I've bought a 15 year old truck with over 100,000 miles on it. They're all wear out parts - and if I'm not 100% certain that they're already done, then they're getting done.

Simply putting off replacing a 15 year old hose because it's inconvenient - to me that's being irresponsible. It could blow out on the highway and inside of 60 seconds that block would be empty - and I'm guessing you'd still be driving the next 5 to 10 miles to the next exit so you can pull into a service station because it's more convenient - which would have a big chance of overheating and cooking the engine. But hey - again, that's your $$$$ and your choice.

We should have a newbie guide on how to make the world's most dependable vehicle fail just when you need it the most.

 

[retrofive]

If you aren't using it - then why have it?

I guess I'd rather have a known issue already solved rather than rely on a tow truck getting to me in the dead of winter on a side road - but hey, if that's your choice, not my problem.

I consider the PHH and all the rest of the hoses + belts + coolant flush + changing the oil + changing the transmission fluid + freshening the brake fluid + filling the washer bottle + changing out the alternator brushes + changing the air filter to a washable Toyota one + a new PCV + new plugs + new cap & rotor + new plug wires + new brake pads + new tires (if needed) + new gear oil in the transfer and diffs to all be part of the 'baseline' I like to get done and through when I've bought a 15 year old truck with over 100,000 miles on it. They're all wear out parts - and if I'm not 100% certain that they're already done, then they're getting done.

Simply putting off replacing a 15 year old hose because it's inconvenient - to me that's being irresponsible. It could blow out on the highway and inside of 60 seconds that block would be empty - and I'm guessing you'd still be driving the next 5 to 10 miles to the next exit so you can pull into a service station because it's more convenient - which would have a big chance of overheating and cooking the engine. But hey - again, that's your $$$$ and your choice.

We should have a newbie guide on how to make the world's most dependable vehicle fail just when you need it the most.

I agree. The other logic is just plain dumb. My PHH did blow, and is not my DD, but happen to be quite a few miles from home. I would have much preffered to fix it in my driveway on a nice day with all my tools at hand.