PHH Tube Rear Bolt

[TLCObsession]

I finally am helping my buddy with his truck. Compression is fine (155 -160 cold/dry), so we will replace the hose and hope for the best.

I have great shots of the EXPLODED hose.

In the mean time, I want to source the silicone hose and constant tension clamps. I will do miune at the same time.

But...

How the heck do you get the bolt on the vertical tube loosened or off so you can put a new hose on? No tool in my box seems to get even close. Are you guys getting the silicone hose onto the tube with the 5/16" gap between the tube and the block nipple?

Jim

 

[cruiserdan]

You don't.


Read this:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_heater_hose.htm

 

[TLCObsession]

OK -

I reread the pages - I was only going after the lower bolt - the upper is apiece of cake and all is well. Hope I can find the hose and clamps on a Sunday and get his rig out, mine done and the 40 back into the shop!

I am a happy camper and working on a #6!

Jim

 

[Riley]

I used Rick's method that is described on Christo's site. I didn't remove the lower bolt (just left it on). The pipe will still twist fairly well with the lower bolt on.

Also read the FAQ on the PHH. I just found it difficult on the neck and hands working in tight quarters but it was ok.

Dan's dish soap idea was also good as well as heating the hose up in boiling water. Simon and I found the hardest part was getting the old clamps off. Having a ton of different pliers around helped.

Riley

edit.... good luck finding the clamps and hose on a Sunday. It took us a few weeks to find the right stuff. You'll probably need to use more typical materials than silicon hose and constant tension clamps. Perhaps that stuff is too anal anyway.

 

[MoJ]

Dan's dish soap idea was also good as well as heating the hose up in boiling water. QUOTE]

Anyone tried the hose lube stuff they sell at Autozone? Comes in a small packet similar to a ketchup packet?

 

[snowcruiser]

Get the blue silicone "heater hose" that is red on the inside and it should slip right on the tube by only loosening the one bolt. There is a pic of the hose and clamps I used in another thread. Good luck!

 

[Rich]

I removed the lower bolt by placing a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench on it. I then used a 18'' 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, with the swivel square drive removed, as a large "forked" punch.

Place forked end of breaker bar on end of ratchet. A couple of easy hits with a hammer on the end of the breaker bar and bolt is loose.

I do consider this abusive of the 1/4 drive socket wrench, but mine survived just fine.

 

[landtank]

pulling that rear bolt is just added work as far as I'm concerned. I used regular hose both times that I have replaced it. Of course once was on the bench .

 

[tucker74]

I just did this on my '93 over the weekend along with a complete coolant system flush and new thermostat. I was unable to locate any silicone hose here locally so I went with some Gates "green stripe" - man is that stuff stout. Holding the green stripe up against some standard Gates I bought for the flush junction it's almost 2X as thick rubber! Even with this I was able to do the top-bolt-turn-n-slide method (use dish soap!) - still ended up with some bruised/scraped forearms though

For any of you out there w/ 100k plus, I would strongly recommend you replacing this hose - mine was really cracked and eaten up on the inside (of course it was leaking too).

Tucker

BTW - I used the fancy "shielded constant-tension worm drive" clamps I had ordered from M-C - anyone see any problem with this on the rubber hose (had bought thinking I was going w/ silicone)?

 

[Rich]

If you are going to replace the hose with something much stiffer than stock, such as Gate Greenstripe, then removing the metal tube makes the job much quicker and much easier and in the end saves time.

I have posted before how to access the lower bolt and remove it. If your arms are long enough to reach, it is quick and easy to remove and replace, provided one also has the dexterity required.

 

[sea2skydad]

I got my silicone hose from the local Finning dealer. Napa had it for C$28/ft. but none in stock. The guy at Finning asked me how much I wanted, then went into the back and gave me a 1 foot piece for nothing. Napa carries the constant torque clamps. HTH, Greg.

 

[TLCObsession]

I got my silicone hose for nothing from the local Kenworth place. He did charge me $9 for the clamps.

Really great place, and they are open until 10PM!

Jim

 

[whodat]

Add me to the list of completed PHH's...used green high temp silicone from napa and ss constant torque clamps.

Interesting note...seems my phh had already been changed(i've only owned for a few mos). it didn't have the wierd factory clamps described by others, just reg ss clamps and blk htr hose...the hose looked somewhat healthy and the clamps were loose. yes loose clamps and no leaks

I assume the po did a phh on the side of the road, but then again...i don't think he could tie his own shoes

 

[cruiserdan]

Your hose was definitely not the original. The previous owner may have paid to have that done. Many original owners were/are not mechanicaly inclined (except for a select few ).

 

[semlin]

i third the going to the local truck dealer for the hose. they are also the only people who might have the Ct clamp.

I could not even find the lower bolt to loosen it but it was easy enough as Riley notes to slip the hose on the outer pipe after heating it in hot water and adding a little dish soap.

 

[whodat]

my local napa had the constant torque clamps...I had to describe them a little. they didn't recog ct....I said things like spring loaded, worm drive, bigger than normal. Joe Napa said ahhh yes, we have those.