PHH - kit or bypass? (1 Viewer)

[4edo]

Hello Mudders,
Nothing bad has happened yet with my PHH. At a minimum I'm going to buy the parts for it real soon now but I've seen several threads recently where people were saying good things about what I will call the "bypass method" where one end of a hose (IIRC about 3.5' long) goes into the heater control valve and the other into where the PHH lives. My question is whether there are reasons why the bypass method is not a good fix ? What about when it's -20F outside? Would the bypass method have a greater chance of freezing up even with the right anti-freeze?

I'm also thinking replacing the heater control valve might be a good idea while I'm at it after reading some threads about the decay they found inside of it.

This rig is new to me as of 18 months ago. Got it for $3950 knowing it needed quite a bit of work and now that the work is done (not by me but we have some real good mechanics here in town) I want to focus more on preventive maintenance and potential issues.

thanks much.

 

[kidglove13]

I by passed mine along with others here
It is easier to repair if need that is for sure
I do not see why it would freeze if you are running the right type of anti freeze mix for those type of temps

 

[Tyler93]

I did the bypass and it still puts a smile on my face. I did not plan on the bypass, but it ended up being much easier once I got in there. Then again, I'm a Stanley tools kind of guy.

 

[Jacques Villeneuve]

The bypass went in when I did the head gasket 4 weeks ago. Works great. Installing it would be a serious pain with all the "stuff" in the way. Take out the dipsticks and starter. The engine side clamp will be "fun"; good luck.
The truck will see -20F or less this winter and freezing the line will not happen because the antifreeze is good.

 

[steffan]

When I go my '93 it had 194K miles on it with a perfect maintenance record from the dealer. The heater control valve had been replaced but none of the hoses had been touched. I went ahead and changed them all out but most of them looked fine so I figured if they are good for 200K with a little fluid change, why mess with a bypass hose etc.

 

[Pin_Head]

Just get the kit. It is just as easy if you break the lower tube bracket off and it is cheaper. It also looks stock and less hose to fail.

 

[excessive]

i did mine without removing the dipstick or starter.

 

[hawker7]

I had the bypass and didn't like the fact that it looped around the brake booster and looked out of place.

Just remove the top bolt on the metal tube, twist the tube fore and aft, until you break the lower mounting tab off the tube, takes about two minutes max. File off sharp edges, and install the silicon kit, or just use a good quality heater hose to attach to the block. Reattach at the top. The silicon kit is nice and solid, and the top bolt holds everything very well. No flex at all that I could determine even without the lower bolt.

Nice, clean and out of the way. Back on the road again

Regards
Hawker

 

[Flank]

For me, the hardest part was getting the original PHH off. Installation of a new silicone PHH was easy. I don't see the need for a bypass when the original lasted 200K. Guys like to fiddle with stuff and do "mods", they feel good about the bypass. It reality, it achieves nothing but add extra hose to your engine.

 

[RichElliott]

My stock PHH lasted 170k miles with no problems. I replaced with the kit and it wasn't too bad. It took about one weekend of slow lazy work. The hose clamp removal tool from Sears helped tons. I would do the PHH kit again if I had too.

My PHH:

 

[ybhc]

I had the bypass and didn't like the fact that it looped around the brake booster and looked out of place.

Just remove the top bolt on the metal tube, twist the tube fore and aft, until you break the lower mounting tab off the tube, takes about two minutes max. File off sharp edges, and install the silicon kit, or just use a good quality heater hose to attach to the block. Reattach at the top. The silicon kit is nice and solid, and the top bolt holds everything very well. No flex at all that I could determine even without the lower bolt.

Nice, clean and out of the way. Back on the road again

Regards
Hawker

The bypass, in no way, has to go around the brake booster.

 

[winstonclein]

My stock PHH lasted 170k miles with no problems. I replaced with the kit and it wasn't too bad. It took about one weekend of slow lazy work. The hose clamp removal tool from Sears helped tons. I would do the PHH kit again if I had too.

My PHH:

X2.
I haven't done it yet, but once is done with high temp silicone hose and constant pressure clamp peace of mine for quite a while.

 

[94 Newbie]

Well, I was going to do it the "hard way" for personal achievement, and ...

I broke the rear knock sensor.

Thanks to a fellow mudder, I picked one up used for $ 50.00.


Be careful either way, but the bypass route probably would have not caused me to be in there enough to break the thing.

I wound up doing the bypass, BTW. PHH Ectonomy

My .02


Britt

 

[Black Op]

Just my .02 I recently replaced mine with factory hose no silliy stuff and no by pass and have to say I feel real good about it. YES IT WAS A PAIN IN THE @$$ but like anything else we do to these beasts to keep them up you feel good doing it right.

 

[95LCMachine]

The bypass is the only way to go. Once its done it just makes sense. You eliminate two hose clamps...that was enough for me right there. The relative ease of the bypass was icing on the cake.

If your coolant is in good shape you shouldnt worry about freezing.

with all the hard jobs there are on these trucks why not make one a little easier.

 

[autobon7]

Bypassed mine 2 years and 40XXX ago and didn't look back. Got the silicone hose and constant torque clamps all from McMaster Carr for less than a PHH kit.

 

[Pin_Head]

3 inches of hose is 10 times cheaper than 30 inches.
Once you break the lower bracket off the tube, reusing it is just as easy as bypassing it.

Cheaper, cleaner, just as easy, looks stock, tastes great and less filling.

 

[robertaleon]

Another vote for bypass using high-quality hose. My installation was not to bad, found PO had already replaced hoses once but never installed the second (hard to get to ) bolt on the hard line so mine came right out. Turn the wheel to the right, lay under the truck with your head on the steering knuckle and go to work - not too bad. I've have it off and reinstalled a couple of times for my HG job.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Got the Silicone PHH/FHH kit here on mud with the constant torque clamps, went to O'reilly's and got a couple feet of Goodyear "GardenHose" green-sleeved silicone hose and bypassed the metal part of the PHH, I sleeved the goodyear bit with hi-temp, split wiring loom.

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-07

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

By trapper50cal at 2011-03-20

 

[Bear80]

Toyota rubber hoses are excellent quality, lasting 10+yrs, 200k+miles. The hose to hard line seal will also last as long with proper anti-freeze/maintenance to prevent any metal corrosion.

What are the extreme situations people are encountering that requires a solution other than the oem hose? Poor anti-freeze maintenance intervals, buying a 15yr old vehicle? Nothing extreme sounding to me. If you fee uneasy about it, change it out with the correct Toyota hose and forget it for another 15yrs, 200k miles.