Received the Pertronix a couple of weeks ago, the day I got sick for two weeks. Anyway I'm well and after a couple of days of getting back up to speed it was time to install the new Pertronix unit. Apparently there are only two for these rigs and it depends on whether the points you use come with the pivot installed or the pivot is pressed into the point plate. Mine had the pivot with the points and so I use the 91662 unit.
Pretty straightforward. The rig is running smooth so I knew all parts were functioning as they should and would be kept in the dash box for emergency backup. I disconnected the battery, removed the parts, cleaned things up. I will note that the screw holding the clip for the distributor at the "keyed" location was just a tad long and wouldn't allow the module to line up on the screw holes. Quick Dremel work resolved that issue. This screw must be re-installed prior to mounting the module as you can't access the nut otherwise. The other item of note, and I'm not sure what this is about, is the instruction regarding vacuum advance distributors and if you had a ground wire in the distributor this must remain. Hmm, vacuum advance and ground wires!?! This is the wire that is fastened at the "other" dist. cap clamp and goes under the screw on the pivot end of the points. The result of keeping this wire is that you cannot use the supplied flat head screw for mounting the module at that location as obviously it is 1) too short, 2) the flat head is rendered useless with the terminal preventing fitting into the countersink. The white insulator where the points and wires connect comes out and the supplied grommet is a very good fit through that hole for routing the wires. The wick holder has to be rotated for clearance/installation of the magnetic ring. The screw is hidden under the wick.
While Pertronix recommends using their coil, I have a Taylor-Vertex 45K epoxy filled coil and has nearly identical numbers to the Pertronix unit so I am using it. After performing the ground and voltage tests I installed the rotor plate, rotor, cap and wires and hit the starter and it fired right up. I let it warm while I put stuff away and then adjusted the timing (I had to loosen the distributor and rotate it to access the aforementioned offending screw) and idle. Running smooth, starts right up after turning off. For what it is worth the dwell checked 2*. Total time was about an hour.
For me the reason for change is the access to the points with the 2F oil cooler lines and my big battery.
Pretty straightforward. The rig is running smooth so I knew all parts were functioning as they should and would be kept in the dash box for emergency backup. I disconnected the battery, removed the parts, cleaned things up. I will note that the screw holding the clip for the distributor at the "keyed" location was just a tad long and wouldn't allow the module to line up on the screw holes. Quick Dremel work resolved that issue. This screw must be re-installed prior to mounting the module as you can't access the nut otherwise. The other item of note, and I'm not sure what this is about, is the instruction regarding vacuum advance distributors and if you had a ground wire in the distributor this must remain. Hmm, vacuum advance and ground wires!?! This is the wire that is fastened at the "other" dist. cap clamp and goes under the screw on the pivot end of the points. The result of keeping this wire is that you cannot use the supplied flat head screw for mounting the module at that location as obviously it is 1) too short, 2) the flat head is rendered useless with the terminal preventing fitting into the countersink. The white insulator where the points and wires connect comes out and the supplied grommet is a very good fit through that hole for routing the wires. The wick holder has to be rotated for clearance/installation of the magnetic ring. The screw is hidden under the wick.
While Pertronix recommends using their coil, I have a Taylor-Vertex 45K epoxy filled coil and has nearly identical numbers to the Pertronix unit so I am using it. After performing the ground and voltage tests I installed the rotor plate, rotor, cap and wires and hit the starter and it fired right up. I let it warm while I put stuff away and then adjusted the timing (I had to loosen the distributor and rotate it to access the aforementioned offending screw) and idle. Running smooth, starts right up after turning off. For what it is worth the dwell checked 2*. Total time was about an hour.
For me the reason for change is the access to the points with the 2F oil cooler lines and my big battery.
