Hello all,
I'm new to the LC100 platform, about 2 weeks ago I upgraded from a 2006 T4R to a 2006 Pacific Blue LC. Loving it so far, however encountered a flashing TPMS light on my first road trip. I was determined to permanently disable the system so I'd never have to deal with the pesky light again. I was fairly confident it was possible, as I had done it previously 4x on 4th gen 4runners. I searched around and found plenty of info and DIYs/videos for T4Rs, GX, Tundras, etc. but none for the hundy. I found a couple threads which pointed me in the right direction and I was able to figure it out from there. Have successfully deleted it and will never go back. Figured I'd contribute a DIY with pics as there were a number of others that were interested but couldn't quite make the jump based on the brief instructions that other members had posted.
The premise is "grounding out" one of the wires that communicates with the module behind the glove box. This is done in various ways depending on the platform, but on my prior 4runners I had just used a T tap to jump a specific wire to the white/black ground wire. It worked flawlessly without issue for years on my 4runners so assumed it would here too, only issue is the wiring and module are setup differently. Was able to use instructions from DenaliJames to get close, used some ebay parts research to confirm I as dealing with the correct wiring harness and bingo, no more lights.
It is honestly a very simple process, doesn't take much time if you know what you're looking for which is why I figured the DIY would help some folks. I had it down to under 10 minutes by the 3rd or 4th time I'd done it on a 4runer prior to getting a LC.
Instructions:
1. Remove your glovebox. 2x screws at the base as pictured. Just lifts up and out.
2. Remove the upper plastic trim. 4x screws as pictured and it fits kind of snugly, had to take one side out at a time. It will make sense when you see it.
3. Once this is out there are 3 wiring harness attached to the back of it, disconnect them and get the black plastic trim out of your way. The yellow one doesn't actually have to unplug, as it is just mounted to the back of the black plastic.
4. At this point you have your ECU and various control modules exposed but none are really accessible.
5. You need to remove the 3 phillips/10mm screws that mount your ECU to the crash bar. You do not have to unplug any of the wiring harnesses. Once unbolted there is enough slack to just move it out of your way.
6. Look up and to the right mounted behind the ~2" steel crash bar to find your TPMS module. It is mounted to a metal bracket and oriented up towards the dash. It does not need to come out to do this mod. I actually tried to remove mine just to confirm it was the correct module but couldn't break the 10mm mounting bolt loose, it was bending the metal bracket so I aborted and resorted to internet research to confirm. Found an ebay listing for the module that came out of the same truck. Matching the box/mount/wiring harness sites to pictures of one removed from the truck was enough to feel confident I was dealing with the correct box/harness. Pics are below so you can get an idea of the module you are after.
7. There is a white relay mounted to the bottom of this bracket, it pops out easily and can be moved out of the way for better access to the TPMS control module.
8. There are two plugs going into the control module, one with 2 gray wires and one with ~8-10 small (~20ga) color coated wires. You are after the plug with color coated wires.
9. Unplug this and pull it down so you have some space to work.
10. The two wires you are looking for are a green wire with a red stripe at position 5 in the harness and the white/black ground wire. I was a little confused as DenaliJames had described this as green/magenta in his previous posts and many of the other wires contained a lighter purple that seemed like more of a magenta to me, but I closely examined all wires and cross referenced with a post from earlier in that thread that discussed the pin numbers and decided this was likely the correct one.
11. You will jump these two wires together - effectively "grounding out" the green/red wire at position 5. I used a T tap quick connector as pictured below.
12. Ensure you use the correct size T tap - first time it was unsuccessful bc I used a blue one I had lying around that was for larger wire and didn't make good contact with the wires. I ended up going and getting a smaller red one which was successful. Make sure you crimp it with some pliers or something to ensure the wires get pushed well into the metal bracket of the T tap and make good contact.
13. Plug it back in and turn your truck on to verify you have solid connections and successfully disabled the TPMS light.
14. Re-assemble your dash/glovebox and enjoy the pure bliss of knowing you'll never have to look at another TPMS in the future of your ownership.
Disclaimer: obviously by disabling this system you will have to manually check and periodically monitor your tire pressures to ensure they are in proper working order. To me this is without a doubt superior to dealing with the seemingly constant headache of fighting with these sensors and looking at that annoying dash light. Plus you can switch wheel sets without a second thought and save a pretty penny chasing and servicing malfunctioning sensors.
Pics detailing the process to follow in separate post.
Hopefully this is helpful to others in the same boat. Let me know if you have any questions!
-Pat
I'm new to the LC100 platform, about 2 weeks ago I upgraded from a 2006 T4R to a 2006 Pacific Blue LC. Loving it so far, however encountered a flashing TPMS light on my first road trip. I was determined to permanently disable the system so I'd never have to deal with the pesky light again. I was fairly confident it was possible, as I had done it previously 4x on 4th gen 4runners. I searched around and found plenty of info and DIYs/videos for T4Rs, GX, Tundras, etc. but none for the hundy. I found a couple threads which pointed me in the right direction and I was able to figure it out from there. Have successfully deleted it and will never go back. Figured I'd contribute a DIY with pics as there were a number of others that were interested but couldn't quite make the jump based on the brief instructions that other members had posted.
The premise is "grounding out" one of the wires that communicates with the module behind the glove box. This is done in various ways depending on the platform, but on my prior 4runners I had just used a T tap to jump a specific wire to the white/black ground wire. It worked flawlessly without issue for years on my 4runners so assumed it would here too, only issue is the wiring and module are setup differently. Was able to use instructions from DenaliJames to get close, used some ebay parts research to confirm I as dealing with the correct wiring harness and bingo, no more lights.
It is honestly a very simple process, doesn't take much time if you know what you're looking for which is why I figured the DIY would help some folks. I had it down to under 10 minutes by the 3rd or 4th time I'd done it on a 4runer prior to getting a LC.
Instructions:
1. Remove your glovebox. 2x screws at the base as pictured. Just lifts up and out.
2. Remove the upper plastic trim. 4x screws as pictured and it fits kind of snugly, had to take one side out at a time. It will make sense when you see it.
3. Once this is out there are 3 wiring harness attached to the back of it, disconnect them and get the black plastic trim out of your way. The yellow one doesn't actually have to unplug, as it is just mounted to the back of the black plastic.
4. At this point you have your ECU and various control modules exposed but none are really accessible.
5. You need to remove the 3 phillips/10mm screws that mount your ECU to the crash bar. You do not have to unplug any of the wiring harnesses. Once unbolted there is enough slack to just move it out of your way.
6. Look up and to the right mounted behind the ~2" steel crash bar to find your TPMS module. It is mounted to a metal bracket and oriented up towards the dash. It does not need to come out to do this mod. I actually tried to remove mine just to confirm it was the correct module but couldn't break the 10mm mounting bolt loose, it was bending the metal bracket so I aborted and resorted to internet research to confirm. Found an ebay listing for the module that came out of the same truck. Matching the box/mount/wiring harness sites to pictures of one removed from the truck was enough to feel confident I was dealing with the correct box/harness. Pics are below so you can get an idea of the module you are after.
7. There is a white relay mounted to the bottom of this bracket, it pops out easily and can be moved out of the way for better access to the TPMS control module.
8. There are two plugs going into the control module, one with 2 gray wires and one with ~8-10 small (~20ga) color coated wires. You are after the plug with color coated wires.
9. Unplug this and pull it down so you have some space to work.
10. The two wires you are looking for are a green wire with a red stripe at position 5 in the harness and the white/black ground wire. I was a little confused as DenaliJames had described this as green/magenta in his previous posts and many of the other wires contained a lighter purple that seemed like more of a magenta to me, but I closely examined all wires and cross referenced with a post from earlier in that thread that discussed the pin numbers and decided this was likely the correct one.
11. You will jump these two wires together - effectively "grounding out" the green/red wire at position 5. I used a T tap quick connector as pictured below.
12. Ensure you use the correct size T tap - first time it was unsuccessful bc I used a blue one I had lying around that was for larger wire and didn't make good contact with the wires. I ended up going and getting a smaller red one which was successful. Make sure you crimp it with some pliers or something to ensure the wires get pushed well into the metal bracket of the T tap and make good contact.
13. Plug it back in and turn your truck on to verify you have solid connections and successfully disabled the TPMS light.
14. Re-assemble your dash/glovebox and enjoy the pure bliss of knowing you'll never have to look at another TPMS in the future of your ownership.
Disclaimer: obviously by disabling this system you will have to manually check and periodically monitor your tire pressures to ensure they are in proper working order. To me this is without a doubt superior to dealing with the seemingly constant headache of fighting with these sensors and looking at that annoying dash light. Plus you can switch wheel sets without a second thought and save a pretty penny chasing and servicing malfunctioning sensors.
Pics detailing the process to follow in separate post.
Hopefully this is helpful to others in the same boat. Let me know if you have any questions!
-Pat
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