Penetrating Oils (1 Viewer)

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I have not tried this yet. I have a frozen calliper bleeder that will be a good test


"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information
on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they
tested these products for "break out torque" on rusted nuts
and bolts.

A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils,
with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove
the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.



Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds

WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds

PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds

Liquid Wrench ...................... 127 foot pounds

Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds

ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds


The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50
automatic transmission
fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts
better than any
commercial product in this one particular test.
 
I use the ATF/acetone brew and can attest to its effectiveness. Interesting data!
 
I've used Kroil for years and never had a broken fastener as long as I've used it. I should try the ATF/acetone mix though and see if I like it. Need to find a spray bottle that could stand up to it though. I'm thinking a Walmart plastic spray bottle might not be wise :D

As far as the test itself, what they should've done was several of those rusted bolts for each different product, then taken and compared the averages.

Sent from OBAMAPHONE!
 
I've been a Kroil user for years. So many times I've had something completely unmovable, soak it with Kroil, come back the next day, and been able to undo it with minimal effort.

I've been meaning to experiment with the ATF/acetone brew. The question I have is whether it really is as good at penetrating into some ancient assembly as Kroil is. "Scientifically rusted" is one thing, but actual use is another.

As Jan L.A. van de Snepscheut says, "In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is."
 
I'm going to question thier data.

I have had bolts soak in WD 40 for days and ending up breaking them and having to drill them out. I switched to PB Blaster and have been pretty satified with the results.

I will have to see about getting some Kroil and smuggle it into california without a machinest license. LOL

I will try some some of the ATF/Acetone and see if it works.
 
I also have been using Kroil for a few years now.
Pricy, but if you get their flyers or on their website they tend to have buy one get one deals.
 
Kroil is some pretty awesome stuff; been using it for a few years now and have yet to have much trouble getting anything loose. Well worth the $$ and the effort to find it.
I tried the atf mix a while back but didn't seem any better than Kroil, although I didn't have anything super tough to test it on.
 
My experience is same as D'Animal ..... WD 40 works a little better
than water. PB Blaster is significantly better and is what I use here in the worlds rust belt ... Southern Ontario (Canada) I have Kroil as well but honestly don't see an improvement over PB Blaster and I find the smell is unpleasant.
 
I gave away all my PB Blaster when I started using Kroil. I also like the SiliKroil for things like window tracks. The Penephite stuff is really good for squirting between leaf springs. I tried their Prevox but it doesn't work nearly as well as Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector.

I just wish it wasn't such a pain to buy.
 
Kroil many x. WD40 is only meant as a protectant, and it does that well. It is not a lubricant or penetrant.
 
WD40 is only meant as a protectant, and it does that well
... well off topic but as a preventative measure .. would be interesting to hear what other folks use for protectant ... in exposed and non exposed areas? Been using "Krown" rustproofing annually on my truck ... and G96 on stored firearms (along with a Goldenrod) ... have also tried Fluid Film and T9 ... there was a firearms product called Metal Shield or something like that that seemed to work ok
 
I use one of these for my ATF-Acetone mix: http://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Refi...861057&sr=8-2&keywords=refillable+aerosol+can


Haven't used Kroll but have used too many cans of PB Blaster to count on my 100 that grew up in Rochester New York if that tells you anything. PB is OK. The ATF-Acetone blend is clearly superior based upon a couple years of using it.

If Kroll works as well as ATF-Acetone it would get the nod if nothing more than more convenient packaging.


After years of experimenting with different gun lubes G96 is the best I've found...but I haven't tried Metal Shield.
 
on my 100 that grew up in Rochester New York if that tells you anything
... YEP ... sure does. Can almost see Rochester across the lake .. same cold, wet/damp 6+months a year.

Used to look forward to the new set of License plates every year so that the old ones could patch the holes in the floor.

I dont have a scientific measure for it but I notice that a barrel wiped down with G96, even after long term storage, doesnt seem to leave any residual "colour" on a clean cloth -- other preservatives dont seem to fare as well. I think the Metal Shield was an "Outers" brand and it left a slight coating when it dried. Worked ok.

Have used RemOil, Browning Oil, Birchwood Casey oil, WWll "brown gun oil", G96, Break Free CLP, Hoppes, 3M, Ballistol, Remington Nitro CLP, Remington Grease, Lithium grease (bolt roller on the M305) etc etc... still prefer the G96. This is not a scientific assessment just a "feel" probably only reflects the fact that none of the others seemed to be any better. Anyway G96 works for me


Is the consensus to use standard or synthetic ATF (Dexron ?) with the Acetone. How volatile is this mixture - am I gonna loose my eyebrows when I mix it??:eek:
 
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I've been using Liquid Wrench for years. Works well, and is easy to get, and well priced. Gonna mix up some acetone/ATF next time I have something that's superstuck. Wife's nail polish remover is going to go 'missing' and turn a nice red color. lol. along with a squirt top on it.
 
Re ATF/acetone: is anything with acetone something you have to look out for with respect to various rubbers, plastics and other non-metallic items?
 
Re ATF/acetone: is anything with acetone something you have to look out for with respect to various rubbers, plastics and other non-metallic items?

So what do you keep it in? :) Looking over a chart of plastics' chemical resistance, acetone is not friendly to most. Polypropylene seems to be a decent choice, or a metal can.
 

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