Peformance Chip for 80

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Turbocruiser,

Have you got a boost gauge connected? If so, yes details please....

I have been looking at one of those automatic boost controllers to let me control from inside the truck, but $$$.

Yomama
 
Turbo, I'd like to see where you've tapped the boost in as well. I've got the Safari system sitting in my garage in a big box and am trying to get everything figured out before I start so I can minimize down time. I've got the Unichip as well but it will be a while before I even get to that part. Thanks.
Mike R.
 
I will send some shots for you two. I do have a boost gauge, it is mounted on my roof pillar along with an air fuel gauge, it is tapped into a "Y" shaped adaptor that runs right to the fuel pressure regulator, it looks almost factory. You can take the vacuum line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, and cut it, put in a "Y" shaped adaptor and then run another length of vacuum hose to whatever type tube the boost gauge comes with.

Take a look at the plumbing if you would want, if you look closely at the fuel pressure regulator, you will see an adaptor and then a tiny length of vacuum line followed by a thin white tube running to the firewall and through the firewall into the roof pillar:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/for_sale/beau/pa120004_jpg.htm

Also, take a look at the gauges if you would want. The twin pod came from an Acura Integra, 94 to 97 model years IIRC. The only mod needed was heating the area where the lower part of the grab bar attaches:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/for_sale/beau/pa120007_jpg.htm

Hope That Helps.
 
Here is mine. It is a TRD 2nd generation gauge in a TRD prototype pod that was never developed. The pod was originally black and I re-finished it grey. I believe that Autometer was the vendor that supplied the pod. I received the pod from a friend at TRD after they decided to abandon the project. (It's not what you know, it's WHO you know :flipoff2: )
 
tc,

Can you measure that Acura pod and let me know if a 60mm (2-3/8") gauge will fit?

-B-
 
Photoman said:
Shed,

Did that engine have a cast iron block and aluminum head? I assume it was a 95 or earlier motor since that was when you said you were running it but don't know how they were configured there at that time. Just wondering if you were getting that kind of boost with the US 95-97 setup since they appear to have more HG isues.

Bill

Mine was the first of the new model Jan 95 build date.

And for all those who have gone turbo, but not maximised the set up for economy, power, and longevity, by adding the unichip and tuning the vehicle, one word

WHY???
 
cruiserdan said:
Here is mine. It is a TRD 2nd generation gauge in a TRD prototype pod that was never developed. The pod was originally black and I re-finished it grey. I believe that Autometer was the vendor that supplied the pod. I received the pod from a friend at TRD after they decided to abandon the project. (It's not what you know, it's WHO you know :flipoff2: )

That's a sweet looking mount Dan. I'd love to mount a temp gauge in that setup ;p

I guess I need new friends or business connections. :rolleyes:
 
the shed guy said:
Mine was the first of the new model Jan 95 build date.

And for all those who have gone turbo, but not maximised the set up for economy, power, and longevity, by adding the unichip and tuning the vehicle, one word

WHY???


1. The UniChip piggyback is apparently not as reliable as the factory computer alone.
2. Since the 95 -97 model years in particular are able to handle the perked up performance of the turbo, adding the UniChip is redundant.
3. With the UniChip it is important to tune the vehicle using a four wheel dyno machine. This takes time trouble and money. Some say once set this way though there is no need for ongoing dyno time, so once set, there is minimal expense and effort, but, go back to point number one.
4. For someone squeezing the most out of the machine, I suppose there is an advantage in tuning flexibility. Shed for example understands how to squeeze the most out of the machine and has added performance above and beyond the stock turbo system using decompression plates, water sprayed intercoolers, etc etc etc. In this case the factory computer can probably not compensate but in my case, it works just fine.
5. Someone recently mentioned that removing the UniChip did not make any difference at all in terms of performance. So, if it makes no difference in performance, and is less reliable, I think it is only appropriate for smart and savy tuners and racers who need even more performance and even more flexibility.

Again, this all comes from people much more expert and experienced than I so I'm taking and trusting their advice. HTH.
 
Beowulf said:
tc,

Can you measure that Acura pod and let me know if a 60mm (2-3/8") gauge will fit?

-B-


B, hi, I think that the 60mm gauge will be too tight. My gauge is 2 inches in diameter, 2 and 1/8th inches if you include the trim ring. The hole that holds the gauge is right to the folded edge of the pod. I would think that anything larger would mean that the hole would go past the folded edge of the pod and the gauge would then wobble around. Not sure how much larger you can go anyway as my pod piece fits as close as can be between the windshield and the trim for the window opening. HTH
 
tc,

Thanks. I ordered a 2-5/8" pod last night. The vendor says it's for 60mm but we'll see. Bill used a 2-1/8" pod and enlarged the hole with a heat gun. I'll try that if the 2-5/8" is too big.

-B-
 
Shed, are you saying that if I have the UniChip and get the truck on a 4-wheel dyno they can tune it through the power band the way it is setup (ie, exhaust, fuel, etc) and then "burn" that into the eprom of the unichip? I was under the impression that the unichip parameters were not modifiable, just supposedly a better map if you were running the turbo. Since you weren't able to change them, that's what lead me (and maybe others) to believe that they just weren't that great of an improvement over the oem.

I just got a used safari turbo system with the unichip and am trying to prepare as much as possible for the install and had thought I'd leave the unichip out as well just from other folks input. I did contact an APS dealer here very close to me that has a 4-wheel dyno as they do a lot of mods for the Subaru WRX's and they said they could fine tune the setup. They could not tell me any more about modifying the unichip as described above without seeing the setup (which I took to mean they had no idea what the turbo setup for the 80 was).

So can you change the unichip?

Also, Shed did you run larger injectors, fuel pump, any other mods as you juiced up the engine?

Thanks.
And Joe, if you read this, the s/c is officially off.

Mike R.
 
My understanding of the unichip is exactly that. You put the vehicle on a dyno and set up the mapping according to what makes that particular vehicle rock. So, if you do not have a 4 wheel loaded dyno in your backyard or have the mony to buy time on one, a unichip will do you no good.
 
cruiserdan said:
My understanding of the unichip is exactly that. You put the vehicle on a dyno and set up the mapping according to what makes that particular vehicle rock. So, if you do not have a 4 wheel loaded dyno in your backyard or have the mony to buy time on one, a unichip will do you no good.

As always, Dan is correct. To even extend on this, I have read that with the 95 - 97 models there is virtually no change before and after with the fuel maps and ignition curves and such between the factory computer and the factory computer with the UniChip installed no matter how much time you put on the dyno. I have also read that the pre 95 models are assisted in many ways with the addition of the UniChip. Basically the way I read it is that if you have 95 - 97 with an otherwise stock engine and the safari turbo system, you are wasting time and money with the UniChip, if one the other hand, you have a modified engine and the safari turbo system, the UniChip is mandatory.
 
Turbocruiser, who ever your "trusted" tuners are, foot them up the arse, and go somewhere alse, because the 95-97 and beyond will run closed loop till about 80% throttle psotion most likely, so performance, mapping, timing and fuel are fixed perameters, the unichip allows you to tune these perameters in closed loop, and make the vehicle perform better, run more fuel efficient, and and run for better durability.

The factory ecu is set for emissions, not performance......

And you can get a great result on a 2wd dyno, by dropping the front shaft if required, a 4wd dyno will only be of real benifit if chnsing evey last hp.

Any good tuner will know his machine, and test drive as well to back up his settings on the dyno.
 
I am with Shed Guy on this one. Toyota didn't design the 80 for performance (not turbo'ed performance) they designed a full time 4x4 that gets better then 10MPG.
The Chip that Safari provides with the system is preset, so is the boost of the turbo to around 6 PSI. This piggy back ICU chip is to improve performance. You can take them in and fine tune them on a dyno and reburn the eprom. Safari would also like to have the turbo installed by someone certified.
Turbocruiser, you use Air Powers tach/speedo signiture, but don't trust the ICU?

I am looking at enhancing the current turbo setup to see if I can't get a little more out of her.

Yomama
 
the shed guy said:
Turbocruiser, who ever your "trusted" tuners are, foot them up the arse, and go somewhere alse, because the 95-97 and beyond will run closed loop till about 80% throttle psotion most likely, so performance, mapping, timing and fuel are fixed perameters, the unichip allows you to tune these perameters in closed loop, and make the vehicle perform better, run more fuel efficient, and and run for better durability.


Well, accchhheeemmm, you just suggested that I stuff my foot up Slee Offroad's collective arses!!!! Sorry, no offense Shed, but as good as you are with these things they are more trusted to me than anyone, anywhere ever will be. When I ask for advice from anyone at Slee Offroad, not only do I follow it, but I do not question it nor do I question any other expert about it. Besides Robbie and Christo look like they could enter a tough man challenge and Ben, well, I'm convinced he is a kung fooo fighter --- soooo, I'll keep my feet on the ground and I'll give them nothing more than a pat on the back, thank you very much!

Besides, you mention that the vehicle will perform better with the chip. Well, I'm already getting virtually the same 0 - 60 times and 0 - 100 times advertised by APS so where is the better performance, and, I'm getting over 16 MPG most of the time so where is the better efficiency? Also, someone recently mentioned removing the UniChip and it making no difference on performance. Lastly, going back to trusting APS, someone recently posted a message from APS stating that the 95 - 97 computer will adequately handle the turbo. Sounds pretty simple to me!!!
 
yomama said:
I am with Shed Guy on this one. Toyota didn't design the 80 for performance (not turbo'ed performance) they designed a full time 4x4 that gets better then 10MPG.
The Chip that Safari provides with the system is preset, so is the boost of the turbo to around 6 PSI. This piggy back ICU chip is to improve performance. You can take them in and fine tune them on a dyno and reburn the eprom. Safari would also like to have the turbo installed by someone certified.
Turbocruiser, you use Air Powers tach/speedo signiture, but don't trust the ICU?

I am looking at enhancing the current turbo setup to see if I can't get a little more out of her.

Yomama

Yomama, hi, not as an argument but as an explanation, some things for your information. First, the boost of the turbo varies from 6 to about 8.5 pounds boost out of the box from APS. If you took ten turbos, and measured the boost on all of them, you would see slightly different results, that is one reason of many reasons why the boost is easy to adjust. Second, its not that you "can" take the chip in and fine tune it, you MUST take the chip in and fine tune it RIGHT AT INSTALL (sorry, no shout, just emphasis); you do not just plug the chip in, let it improve things and then sooner or later take it in to really fine tune it. Prior to purchasing this rig, I called over to AUS and asked APS about the absence of the chip in this vehicle I was wanting to purchase. The previous owner was open about the fact the chip was purposely omitted. I called to confirm whatever I could about the chip. The APS person of course was proud of the chip and proud of its capability in the hands of expert tuners. He did however warn me that it takes an absolutely expert tuner to get it right. In fact, he told me that it is better to not install the thing at all than it is to install it and not tune it perfectly and he emphasized perfectly! I do trust APS; they make wonderful products but even APS has admitted that the chip is more or less optional for the 95 -97 vehicles. So in my case, I'm trusting APS and Slee at the same time --- pretty trusted sources if you ask me!!! Look, you run it one way, I run it the other way. I'm totally tickled with the performance economy and reliability of my rig, why change it?
 
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turbocruiser said:
Besides, you mention that the vehicle will perform better with the chip. Well, I'm already getting virtually the same 0 - 60 times and 0 - 100 times advertised by APS so where is the better performance, and, I'm getting over 16 MPG most of the time so where is the better efficiency? !

None are so blind, as those who wont see........

If you havent tried it, how can you tell where all the extra hpa nd economy are?

I can tell you, because your economy and power suck compared to what mine ran, with unichip..........

You already have the unichip, all it will cost you to actually prove me wrong, rather than take the word of others, is a couple of hours dyno time, then one of us will be able to say we were right, and one wrong, but given Ive already owned one, and had a unichip fitted to mine, and playe with tuning, I think everyone knows who will be which..... ;)
 
Look man, I admittedly am in no position to argue with you, and I'm not gonna, so if you want an argument from someone, go pick someone else, saaaayyyyy like someone with a supercharger for example!!! Trust is a matter of trust, its not the same as those who don't look and those who don't see. I have researched this as much as I possibly can short of actually trying the thing. The most important factor in my equation was always reliability, as opposed to all out performance. If the reliability is any factor less than the reliability of the factory computer, that is all I want to know. In other words, I have plenty of power and plenty of economy to make me happy. If this is the limit with the stock computer, well I'm good with that, s*** anyone would be good with that, anyone except you perhaps, but as I wrote already I am in no position to argue with someone who really works each and every horse out of the machine for the purposes of rally racing! You mention that my performance and my economy suck considering an otherwise stock engine and the safari turbo system. So, quantify that statement...since you have so much dyno time, share what the performance and the economy of your otherwise stock engine and the system was? I am not talking what it was with the water sprayed, methanol injected, decompression plated, etc etc etc. I am talking your engine stock, and, the system. I know you know your stuff but you are bordering on bragging to the point of ridiculous; if the setup really "sucked" with the stock computer dont you think the people at safari would have stated so? Are you saying following their advice is blind faith?
 

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