Passenger offset rear Dana 44 in FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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The major factor is cost - I can get these axles on the cheap, with enough left over in my budget for some low, low gears.

This FJ40 I am building has a lot of problems with the rear axle... the housing itself is close to being rusted through, and it is missing every scrap of brake hardware, including wheel cylinders, springs, clips, screws, and lines.

I know it will be weaker than the Yota axle but I want the width and I'm more familiar with setting up a Dana than a Toyota, especially in the front. Also I am aparently not skilled enough to keep FJ40 power drums adjusted properly... this way I get one cylinder per drum and discs up front to boot.
 
Some fullsize jeeps had offset 44 Rears

IVe got a 40 rear housing, and Shafts for sale if you want, i also have a front Minitruck Disk Brake setup that will Swap right on to your Drum Brake Axle..

Dana 44's have no place on a crusier
 
This set are from a FSJ, both passenger offset, looks like it might be an easy swap... plus the mods I would have to do in front would make it really easy to swap in a D60 later.
 
Just wanted to make sure there were no mechanical objections aside from moral objections. Like rotation, etc.

I knew I was going to get somebody riled up and possibly mugged otherwise.

All I can say in my defense is I am going with these so I can preserve that wonderful F155 engine, transmission and transfer case!
 
i think its pointless. you can find a 40 rear axle for nothing if you look a bit. it will be stronger, easier to install
 
the front will be more of a problem cause caster isnt as easy to fix on danas... make sure your fronts also a flat top on both sides will make high steer easyer ... post up pics and make it so:grinpimp:
 
Well, you can get a FS D60 for about $100 Or a stock axle for about the same..

I was under the assumption that the FSJ fronts were not the same spring spacing as a atandard GM front, is that not correct?

doing the 44 in the rear will be a significant degrade fromt the cruiser axle.
 
Dana 44 in the rear is a waste of time and money... Might as well as polish a turd.

Just how deep do you need to go on the gears? Step up to a Dana 60 or 14 bolt, but don't waste your time on a wimpy D44.
 
You're correct about the spring spacing in the front, I would have to position new spring brackets outboard of the frame rails. Might do the same in the rear but they appear to be wide enough apart as-is.

It is my intention to end up with a Dana 60 front axle and a GM 14-bolt full-floater in the rear end. I have the rear end now but have not yet collected the front end, transmission, transfer case or wheels (I am thinking a GM TH700R4 and NP208 running behind the F155 and 36" HMMWV double-beadlocks)

For a D44, I have been looking at some 5.13 gears on sale and some 5.89 gears _not_ on sale. I am not sure how low the D60 and 14B can go.

The setup I end up with in the front should be an easy swap from the D44 to D60, will be setting everything up with that goal in mind.

Hopefully this would last a year or so until I can collect the rest of the beefy stuff!

fj40charles raises an interesting question to me... How many folks put a big, centered diff in the rear while still running the Yota offset transfer case? Would I be asking for trouble with driveline angles if I push the rear axle back a couple inches? If that can be done I would just skip the rear D44 altogether and go with the 14-bolt and install the auto trans later.
 
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You're correct about the spring spacing in the front, I would have to position new spring brackets outboard of the frame rails. Might do the same in the rear but they appear to be wide enough apart as-is.

It is my intention to end up with a Dana 60 front axle and a GM 14-bolt full-floater in the rear end. I have the rear end now but have not yet collected the front end, transmission, transfer case or wheels (I am thinking a GM TH700R4 and NP208 running behind the F155 and 36" HMMWV double-beadlocks)

For a D44, I have been looking at some 5.13 gears on sale and some 5.89 gears _not_ on sale. I am not sure how low the D60 and 14B can go.

The setup I end up with in the front should be an easy swap from the D44 to D60, will be setting everything up with that goal in mind.

Hopefully this would last a year or so until I can collect the rest of the beefy stuff!

fj40charles raises an interesting question to me... How many folks put a big, centered diff in the rear while still running the Yota offset transfer case? Would I be asking for trouble with driveline angles if I push the rear axle back a couple inches? If that can be done I would just skip the rear D44 altogether and go with the 14-bolt and install the auto trans later.

Lowest gear ratio on a 14 bolt is 5.38. IMHO, the best option (usually most expensive too) is to do the conversion all at once. Go with a centered rear diff. Do the auto conversion with a new centered transfer case.

What is the F155 engine? I hope you don't plan on running a stock 6 cylinder. Your driveline angles will be real short behind a 700/r4 and np208.

Depending on the intended purpose of the vehicle, you might be able to get away with some 4.56 gears (don't have to spend money on aftermarket gears). 4.56 should be easy and cheap to find used for D60 and 14 bolt. I would save the money on aftermarket gears and put that money toward a Stak 2 speed tcase. Get the gearing with the transfer case insstead of the diffs.
 
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Lowest gear ratio on a 14 bolt is 5.38. IMHO, the best option (usually most expensive too) is to do the conversion all at once. Go with a centered rear diff. Do the auto conversion with a new centered transfer case.

What is the F155 engine? I hope you don't plan on running a stock 6 cylinder. Your driveline angles will be real short behind a 700/r4 and np208.

My engine is the (I think) last year before the 2F. I won't be able to budget that auto trans swap until next year, but want to wheel it in the meantime.

The driveline angle causes me to worry a bit, don't know if I am going to end up needing an 8 inch long driveshaft! I am not averse to moving the rear axle several inches back since this is a trail rig that is already cut up and rusty. I would consider other automatic trans options if I can gain a few inches and remain passenger drop.
 
For the transmission...Good luck mating up a 700R4. I think Mace has the only known adapter, and the people who made it couldn't get it working.

You could install the automatic out of an FJ62, the A440F. I don't know what transfer cases you could mate up to that to get a center rear drop.
 
if your goal is a 60/14 with an auto, just do that...

Im so sick of spending money on my rig, just to tear it out in a year and replace it all..

keep it the way it is, gather your parts, and do it all at once, that way its right the first time.
 
if your goal is a 60/14 with an auto, just do that...

Im so sick of spending money on my rig, just to tear it out in a year and replace it all..

keep it the way it is, gather your parts, and do it all at once, that way its right the first time.

i agree
 
For the transmission...Good luck mating up a 700R4. I think Mace has the only known adapter, and the people who made it couldn't get it working.

You could install the automatic out of an FJ62, the A440F. I don't know what transfer cases you could mate up to that to get a center rear drop.

Hadn't really researched putting a GM or other drivetrain behind the Toyota motor, just figured somebody, somewhere had done it.

Beginning to wonder if it would be easier when I do my auto swap to drop in a 6.2 Detroit / 700R4 / NP208... seems a shame as I really like the F motor.... or whether I should even bother with an auto trans.
 
Auto behind the F is hard.

Go find another route. You could probably do it if you spent enough money but would you really want to live your life with a one off thing?

I have, I am, it is a pita..
 
Cheapest and best alternative IMHO is an GM auto behind a small block chevy.
 

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