Passenger door side frame cushion.... (1 Viewer)

[BTLSHP]

I have this to deal with soon. My plan is to only replace the lower rubber isolator and nut/bolt (nothing above the frame rail bracket). I can't find a section of the FSM dealing with the Body Mounts -any reference would be appreciated. Given that I am only replacing the bits below the frame bracket, is this as straightforward as removing the lower bolt and washer, removing the isolator (pushing bolt upward to gain clearance) and replacing?

Anyone know the torque specs? Or do I take it off the bolt head?

The actual frame bracket is in good shape despite a scary looking dark line. Also, the O2 Sensor shields are MIA, should they be replaced? The down pipe heat shields are also MIA/NLA

Thanks

 

[baldilocks]

I have this to deal with soon. My plan is to only replace the lower rubber isolator and nut/bolt (nothing above the frame rail bracket). I can't find a section of the FSM dealing with the Body Mounts -any reference would be appreciated. Given that I am only replacing the bits below the frame bracket, is this as straightforward as removing the lower bolt and washer, removing the isolator (pushing bolt upward to gain clearance) and replacing?

Anyone know the torque specs? Or do I take it off the bolt head?

The actual frame bracket is in good shape despite a scary looking dark line. Also, the O2 Sensor shields are MIA, should they be replaced? The down pipe heat shields are also MIA/NLA

Thanks
View attachment 3738827

Once you get that rusty nut and bolt separated all you do is drop the old parts down and put the new parts up. I think I’d replace that nut and bolt as well. As for torque on the hardware, I just got them all “good and tight”. No torque wrench was involved. Use no bigger than a standard size 3/8” drive ratchet or box end wrench and give it a good pull for final torque.

 

[BTLSHP]

Once you get that rusty nut and bolt separated all you do is drop the old parts down and put the new parts up. I think I’d replace that nut and bolt as well. As for torque on the hardware, I just got them all “good and tight”. No torque wrench was involved. Use no bigger than a standard size 3/8” drive ratchet or box end wrench and give it a good pull for final torque.

That was easier than it looked, thanks.

 

[baldilocks]

That was easier than it looked, thanks.

Be sure to get that nut good a tight. There is no danger of over compressing the rubber components because the bolt runs through a sleeve/clamp up bushing that limits the amount of squish.

 

[Malleus]

That is the only bolt on the entire truck I cannot find a torque spec for; using the bolt size/head mark won't work, because you're not tightening against a fixed surface. Add to that the rubber isn't consistent enough to get reliable repeatability out of, and you're stuck with linear compression measurement:

assume your old cushions were installed on the assembly line, so whatever they used for torque is correct (I know, but it's all you have). The stack height would change only to the extent that the cushion thickness failed to rebound, unless there was loss of material, so use the old stack height as your target and crank down on the inner nut, until either

a) you get it to compress at the same height, or
b) you feel like the resistance changes significantly (turn the wrench slowly, so you don't go far past this point);

...install the lock nut and have a beer.

This is the method I used when I replaced all of my cushions last year. They all seem to be happy.

FWIW, I surveyed several dealer techs and I got shrugs for answers.

 

[BTLSHP]

That is the only bolt on the entire truck I cannot find a torque spec for; using the bolt size/head mark won't work, because you're not tightening against a fixed surface. Add to that the rubber isn't consistent enough to get reliable repeatability out of, and you're stuck with linear compression measurement:

assume your old cushions were installed on the assembly line, so whatever they used for torque is correct (I know, but it's all you have). The stack height would change only to the extent that the cushion thickness failed to rebound, unless there was loss of material, so use the old stack height as your target and crank down on the inner nut, until either

a) you get it to compress at the same height, or
b) you feel like the resistance changes significantly (turn the wrench slowly, so you don't go far past this point);

...install the lock nut and have a beer.

This is the method I used when I replaced all of my cushions last year. They all seem to be happy.

FWIW, I surveyed several dealer techs and I got shrugs for answers.

I am headed to Total Wine to resolve some supply chain deficiencies this evening....Ourisman turned over my caliper order to FedEx at noon. Looks like a 2 six pack trip.