Parts for steering box rebuild (1 Viewer)

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2000cruiser

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Oct 13, 2004
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Location
Pismo Beach, San Francisco, Seattle
Planning to rebuild the steering box soon and was wondering if anyone has a checklist of the OEM parts needed for maintenance. I found the following from another thread but wanted to make sure these are all the parts I need :)


Parts List
• OEM Sector 105 shaft (44111-60060)
• OEM Pitman arm 105 (45411-60360)
• OEM Gear box gasket kit (04445-60050)
• OEM Lock nut (90170-22058)
• OEM Split washer (94511-02200)
• OEM BOLT, WASHER BASED (90105-12110)
• OEM Nuts (90179-12085)

94 1FZ FE, steering wheel going left and right feels great at both low and high speeds. Just feels loose and more play than I want when driving straight at speeds 55mph and above.
 
I had the steering box rebuilt by the shop in Texas ( West Texas offroad ) including the 105 pitman arm and shaft. Unfortunately, the steering box arrived with so much sloppiness that it was unsafe to drive, I had to buy the valve assembly 44120-60180 which costs a little fortune. Had the steering box rebuilt one more time and now the sloppiness is gone.
 
I had the steering box rebuilt by the shop in Texas ( West Texas offroad ) including the 105 pitman arm and shaft. Unfortunately, the steering box arrived with so much sloppiness that it was unsafe to drive, I had to buy the valve assembly 44120-60180 which costs a little fortune. Had the steering box rebuilt one more time and now the sloppiness is gone.
Couple others had similar experience. I think people have shifted to Red <something> for rebuilds. @NLXTACY comes to mind IIRC.
 
Unrelated to an 80 box, but I had WT rebuild a mini-truck box in the 40 and its dripping after 4 years of occasional use. Need to pull and send it out or learn how to do it myself.
 
Also on the "should be replaced" list:
44152-30020 plunger,
45357-60030, screw, sector adjust
44142-60020, locknut, sector
Indeed. Will prob need a bolt welded to that plunger guide to get it out. I had to. Shallow hex head. Strips easily.
 
Planning to rebuild the steering box soon and was wondering if anyone has a checklist of the OEM parts needed for maintenance. I found the following from another thread but wanted to make sure these are all the parts I need :)


Parts List
• OEM Sector 105 shaft (44111-60060)
• OEM Pitman arm 105 (45411-60360)
• OEM Gear box gasket kit (04445-60050)
• OEM Lock nut (90170-22058)
• OEM Split washer (94511-02200)
• OEM BOLT, WASHER BASED (90105-12110)
• OEM Nuts (90179-12085)

94 1FZ FE, steering wheel going left and right feels great at both low and high speeds. Just feels loose and more play than I want when driving straight at speeds 55mph and above.
The a new FZJ80 steering box already comes with the larger 105 sector shaft, etc. You should consider just purchasing a new steering box.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like the complete OEM set will cost about $3k without the pitman arm- so I am exploring going with a remanufactured complete from amazon, then upgrading to the 105 shaft and pitman arm:

Amazon product ASIN B00ZASQ06A
Does anyone know if I was to start with a remanufactured complete assuming it does not come with the 105 shaft. Can I just get away with purchasing the upgraded shaft and arm? Or do would I need everything else on core upgrade - looking to save on having to purchase the gasket kit (0444560050).
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like the complete OEM set will cost about $3k without the pitman arm- so I am exploring going with a remanufactured complete from amazon, then upgrading to the 105 shaft and pitman arm:

Amazon product ASIN B00ZASQ06A
Does anyone know if I was to start with a remanufactured complete assuming it does not come with the 105 shaft. Can I just get away with purchasing the upgraded shaft and arm? Or do would I need everything else on core upgrade - looking to save on having to purchase the gasket kit (0444560050).

A remanufactured unit will not come with any upgraded parts. It will most likely be China junk.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like the complete OEM set will cost about $3k without the pitman arm- so I am exploring going with a remanufactured complete from amazon, then upgrading to the 105 shaft and pitman arm:

Amazon product ASIN B00ZASQ06A
Does anyone know if I was to start with a remanufactured complete assuming it does not come with the 105 shaft. Can I just get away with purchasing the upgraded shaft and arm? Or do would I need everything else on core upgrade - looking to save on having to purchase the gasket kit (0444560050).
Just go with a rebuilt from redhead. They actually regrind or replace the piston if needed (from what I'm told, no direct experience with them), to make sure the rebuilt box will last. Many folks who have used cheaper rebuild services quickly get sloppy steering again when the piston/servo isn't dealt with correctly.

This is what a badly worn piston/servo looks like. If it is not dealt with (and a new sector shaft is just jammed in there), there will only be a very small bit of gear touching. This will allow preload to be set correctly and it will work nice on the bench, but as soon as it has hydraulic pressure and steering forces applied, it will crush that very small amount of gear interface and you will end up with significantly worse steering.

IMG_4751.jpeg
 
hanks for all the help guys. Looks like the complete OEM set will cost about $3k without the pitman arm- so I am exploring going with a remanufactured complete from amazon, then upgrading to the 105 shaft and pitman arm:
Last Fall, I bought a "new" gear box from those guys on Amazon. The box had several issues. They took it back but I had to pay shipping. I was out $45 but, they gave me a $45 credit toward anything in their store (Read "out $45). I was pissed that Amazon didn't have me sent it back to them. When I (later) did the research on them, the reviews were greatest company ever to worst.
 
This might help convey why the bad piston CAN BE the issue.

Here you can see the leftover, untouched area of the piston from a lotta miles of wear. Red lines to highlight. This gear mesh is tapered down, so as you adjust the sector shaft down, you increase preload. When you put a new sector shaft in, you will likely only be touching the section between the red lines (or even worse, some small portion of it), instead of the full 1.5" or so of tooth. As you might imagine, only being in contact with that small amount, it will easily crush and then you are stuck with worse steering than before.

IMG_5126.jpeg


Here you can see where the new sector shaft would likely land to get appropriate preload in a rebuilt box. Compare to above pic to see how quickly it will go out of spec if the piston isn't repaired or replaced.

IMG_5128.jpeg
 
Sounds like I'm going straight to Redhead! Looks like they're all backordered, but can work on my core or any serviceable core I can find. I feel like I'm lucking out since they aren't too far from where I live.

Thank you much @Delta VS @smritte
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like the complete OEM set will cost about $3k without the pitman arm- so I am exploring going with a remanufactured complete from amazon, then upgrading to the 105 shaft and pitman arm:

Amazon product ASIN B00ZASQ06A
Does anyone know if I was to start with a remanufactured complete assuming it does not come with the 105 shaft. Can I just get away with purchasing the upgraded shaft and arm? Or do would I need everything else on core upgrade - looking to save on having to purchase the gasket kit (0444560050).
Id really think twice before using cheap Amazon junk, I know I've learned my lesson, lol.

Buy once, and cry once
 
How much are the rebuilds at Redhead?

Disregard, I see the costs... it's $396 for the rebuild...
 
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