Parking lights and license plate lights

[Uncle Grumpy]

1) No parking lights
I don't have any parking lights at first position on the headlight switch but at second position I have headlights and parking lights. Switch issue or is it something more sinister?

2) No license plate lights
This one is easy because they're not connected. I have bullet connectors (green wire) from the bulb housings and the PO created a common ground for the white/blk. On the rear passenger fender I have a 2 position "T" connector. Was there an intermediate pigtail from the "T" connector to the bullet connectors? I can make it work but I'd rather use something similar to the OEM setup.

Thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

Easy enough to test the switch for running lights. I don't have a LP light and I toggle switch in my back up light. Simple is as simple does.

 

[pb4ugo]

My 75, inside the rt rear fenderwell has a wire that splits into 2 female butt connectors, 1 is for the side marker the other goes to the license plate. White/black stripe grounds to the body. On mine, the ground goes to a bolt next the hole for the light wires. I'm not sure if that's stk or not. The side marker grounds to itself.

You may have to clean the contacts inside the switch. I've had luck pulling the switch in and out quickly a bunch of times.

 

[pb4ugo]

Here ya go. I'm not sure if it's stk or not. It looks close, I guess.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

1) No parking lights
I don't have any parking lights at first position on the headlight switch but at second position I have headlights and parking lights. Switch issue or is it something more sinister?

2) No license plate lights
This one is easy because they're not connected. I have bullet connectors (green wire) from the bulb housings and the PO created a common ground for the white/blk. On the rear passenger fender I have a 2 position "T" connector. Was there an intermediate pigtail from the "T" connector to the bullet connectors? I can make it work but I'd rather use something similar to the OEM setup.

Thanks

Easy enough to test the switch for running lights. I don't have a LP light and I toggle switch in my back up light. Simple is as simple does.

My 75, inside the rt rear fenderwell has a wire that splits into 2 female butt connectors, 1 is for the side marker the other goes to the license plate. White/black stripe grounds to the body. On mine, the ground goes to a bolt next the hole for the light wires. I'm not sure if that's stk or not. The side marker grounds to itself.

You may have to clean the contacts inside the switch. I've had luck pulling the switch in and out quickly a bunch of times.

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This one is easy because they're not connected.

Yes , that is correct so confirm & verify your stand alone 15A TAIL Fuse is good by pulling it & preform a continuity test , or simply replace it with a known good tested fuse ....


- Also , remove your B+ positive battery cable 1st , then carefully unbolt your fuse box and turn it around like you see below , inspect ALL wires and the 3 connectors , green , black and white , for any signs of heat build up and melting , then inspect the front black nylon on the front side all over very well especially where all the Brass fuse terminals pass through it for the same look of getting hot and melting ....


- this is a very common " thing " ...

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[45Dougal]

1) its your switch - squirt some wd40 inside it and jiggle it back and forth a few times - they can get rusty back there if you have a damp problem

 

[ToyotaMatt]

1) No parking lights
I don't have any parking lights at first position on the headlight switch but at second position I have headlights and parking lights. Switch issue or is it something more sinister?

2) No license plate lights
This one is easy because they're not connected. I have bullet connectors (green wire) from the bulb housings and the PO created a common ground for the white/blk. On the rear passenger fender I have a 2 position "T" connector. Was there an intermediate pigtail from the "T" connector to the bullet connectors? I can make it work but I'd rather use something similar to the OEM setup.

Thanks

1) its your switch - squirt some wd40 inside it and jiggle it back and forth a few times - they can get rusty back there if you have a damp problem

it's been my experience that all the Internal components inside a 40 & 55 series 1/73 - 10/85 illuminated knob headlamp switch are composite cast nylon , brass , stainless steel ...only the 2 springs are high carbon steel and can rust , these Circa Era pull switches were tucked up well up under the metal dash and by 1973 the black safty pads were extra weather protection too ,

were it is common to see the exterior metal switch boxes vary in patina , especially if a FST or the hard top came off and well ....................never found its way back on ?

- the interiors , cad get dry as in the 40- year old conventual / natural base di-electric grease can turn into a hard petrified candle wax , i have never seen a rust issue in any notable way , burned up ? hell yes ...........

- i would never use any type of aerosol stiff like WD40 or PB blaster and RED STRAW it inside , that would be a poor choice and actually attract dirt and silica , soon like sooner then soon , if your lucky and that crude base of petroleum distillates does not eat up the brown-ish-red circuit board material first , and soak into and all over the Coil-Spring in the ceramic rheostat insulator block , hence preventing electrical flow to it and around it .....

if you EVER remove a lighted Knob pull switch of any kind in a 40 or 55 , ALWAYS make Dam sure you never ever forget to twist-on a OEM 3mm vaccum cap over that clear fiber optic rod tip sticking out a proud 5mm+ , if you don't ? it WILL get snapped off by the inside inner lip of the metal switch panel on removal or re-install . i speak from experience here , i snapped off at least 3 or 4 in my teenage years , but 3mm OEM Vacuum Caps will save your day ....

, NOTE ; once snapped off , if your lucky enough to actually find it ? NO amount of super glue will change the fact almost zero lumens will ever be seen on that knob face , and you will now a Core-Status-Switch

- the first generation fixed knob stalk 20031 ,

- 2nd generation 60010 ( the 1st gen. rheostat dimmer equipped ) ,

- 3rd generation 60011 ( the 2nd gen. rheostat dimmer equipped ) .

- the 60030 24V BJ4# , HJ4#

- the RHD 14030

. This is the Way .......


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[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

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[ToyotaMatt]

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[Uncle Grumpy]

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[Uncle Grumpy]

Update. Placed an order with @ToyotaMatt so the license plate lights will have to wait for parts.

I sprayed the light switch with contact cleaner. The marker lights are repeatedly coming on at first position, so that's a win. Interestingly, the headlights are coming on too at first position. Hmm... So first position is just like second position. Of course the fiber/plastic part that illuminates the switch was broken too so another order with Matt is in my future. Matt has been very responsive to messages and provides great customer service.

If I wasn't having switch issues I would be tempted to find a small diameter plexiglass rod to repair the current one. It came right out when I pushed it back into the switch. Appears to have been loosely glued at the end closest to the light bulb.