Parking Brake Cable (1 Viewer)

[LandRaper]

I have an 85' FJ60 without a functioning parking brake and discovered this weekend that a frozen parking brake cable is the culprit. I have completely removed the parking brake cable and confirmed that there is no movement of the cable within the sleeve, regarless how hard I try to rip the cable out of the sleeve.

So, does anyone know of a way to un-stick a parking brake cable, or should I just buy a new one? And if that's the case, where is the best place to buy one? Thanks in advance for the help, I'm trying to get my rig in good enough shape to pass a PA safety inspection so I can get plates.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

If yours is that bound up I'd spring for a new one. CDan would be glad to take care of you.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Emergency brakes are nice to have or I mean I wouldn't drive my land cruiser without a backup brake. Buy a new one from C-dan or from Toyota and know you got a good brake.You might never really need it but that one time you need it will be worth every penny.

 

[Ryan S.]

No way to unstick it; follow the advice of others on a new. I had the same problem, and I think that the best advice I got regarding the new one was "use it or lose it" to keep it form sticking again.

 

[LandRaper]

Thanks for the advice, I'll add the cable to my growing C-dan list.

 

[60wag]

When you install the new cable, also check the function of the levers that the cable attaches to at the brakes. They tend to corrode and freeze up. If they are stuck, take them apart to clean them.

 

[LandRaper]

I'm also taking apart the rear drum brakes and cleaning them while I'm messing with the parking brake, and those levers you mentioned are really gummed up. Mine only moved with the pursuasion of a rubber mallet. What did you use to clean the levers, and did you add any lubricant after the cleaning? I was reading some other posts on this issue and noticed that some people just completely replaced the lever assemblies (apparently the bushing design was changed on later versions?), but I'll wait and see how mine work after cleaning before I decide if I need to spend more cash.

 

[Ryan S.]

I forgot to tell you that when my mew cable was installed, the mechanic had a tough time with the adjustment of the e brake. It seemed like a fine line between the brake working effectively and the amount of pressure applied to the drums. At first it would click the self adjusting mecahanism everytime the brake was set, therefore tightening the brakes to the point that they were always in contact with the drum and started to smoke. Ended up he had to take a die grinder and lengthen the groove so the adjustment wheel wouldn't click over when the brake was set. Sorry if description too vague, it's been awhile since I watched it happen. BTW it was BM (before Mud). Ohh the money I could have saved if I only had known about Mud!

 

[Tinker]

If you take the bellcranks out of their brackets you can sand off the corrosion that causes them to stick. You can also sand/file the brackets for more clearance. I coated mine with a thin film of heavy synthetic grease (also used on the axles).

Unless the cables/bellcranks move freely you can't adjust the shoes properly. Also, if the bellcranks are frozen the automatic adjusters won't work (actuated by the ebrake). The rear shoes in my '84 looked brand new at 125K mi. PO probably never used the ebrake. Fixed the ebrake & now it stops good with 33s.

 

[hj 60]

My hj60 now also has a stuck hand brake cable, on holiday and driving trough the alps, 23% slope! and it is easy to check if the cable is stuck.
Remove the small locking clamp at the left rear wheel brake drum, then remove the pin so the cable is free, test both side operation and the cable, I will order a new cable and was wondering if it was possible to lubricate the old one.
Seems I will continue to manually release the handbrake at the drums and not take it apart and try to use wd40 or oil, as it Seems that a sticky cable needs to be replaced.