Parasitic draw with new Tundra alternator

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I duplicated your tests and these were my readings fwiw. My 150 amp Sequoia alternator reading was the same as yours but that .8 amp that is being pulled from the cruiser seems too high. I would start pulling fuses one at a time until the reading drops to isolate the circuit.

Alternator B wire.jpg


All other loads.jpg
 
The other 2 wires are going to the blue sea acr and dial switch, 0V. I dont think anything was on when I measured it. It was set to 200m. Now that I look at it, probably set too high.

Thank you for the measurement Bill.

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The other 2 wires are going to the blue sea acr and dial switch, 0V. I dont think anything was on when I measured it. It was set to 200m. Now that I look at it, probably set too high.

Thank you for the measurement Bill.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD


Hang on a second here are you measuring AMPS or VOLTS? (You stated 0V above)

m just means mili- You can measure mili-Amps or mili-Volts, and it kind of looks like they are at the opposite sides of your meter dial.... Is it at all possible that you are on the mili-volt scale? (Can't tell from your meter photo)

200m (assuming mA, not mV) is too low a scale for what you are reading, try it again with it set to a higher scale. Probably won't change the reading, but it might, as you are 4x what that scale is supposed to read.

If you pull fuses, or measure individual wires as suggested above, you will be able to narrow down your search...
 
Hey Photoman, why didn't you just clamp the wire? The Fluke 337 can clamp AC and DC... Do you find the clamp less accurate?

Just curious as I use the same meter for clamping DC (I have a more accurate one for AC)
 
If I can I usually try to do the same as the person that asks a question. Sometimes I try to use the same words even though they may not be the correct terms. I may be mistaken but I feel it helps the person asking the questions since it sort of puts us on the same page. In this case I now have to reset my radio and clock, :lol:

Bill

Hey Photoman, why didn't you just clamp the wire? The Fluke 337 can clamp AC and DC... Do you find the clamp less accurate?

Just curious as I use the same meter for clamping DC (I have a more accurate one for AC)
 
Hang on a second here are you measuring AMPS or VOLTS? (You stated 0V above) m just means mili- You can measure mili-Amps or mili-Volts, and it kind of looks like they are at the opposite sides of your meter dial.... Is it at all possible that you are on the mili-volt scale? (Can't tell from your meter photo) 200m (assuming mA, not mV) is too low a scale for what you are reading, try it again with it set to a higher scale. Probably won't change the reading, but it might, as you are 4x what that scale is supposed to read. If you pull fuses, or measure individual wires as suggested above, you will be able to narrow down your search...

Sorry I meant amp. Thanks. I will do that tonight.

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If I can I usually try to do the same as the person that asks a question. Sometimes I try to use the same words even though they may not be the correct terms. I may be mistaken but I feel it helps the person asking the questions since it sort of puts us on the same page. In this case I now have to reset my radio and clock, :lol:

Bill

Nice. I like it. (And yeah, the clock was kind of the thinking behind my question)
 
The previous measurement wasn't accurate. It reads 0.7A at first then gradually goes down and stay at 0.3A. Found it to be my dome. Does this dome only mean the dome and door lights?

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My 150A install has been fine and I have yet to upgrade the alt wire though it is only about 10" long so I'm not worried about it and it's never been hot to touch after a long drive.

On my BS kit I moved everything that went to the battery to the AB house side.

I had been running the BS kit for over a year without issue before installing Bill's sweet kit and have been running that for nearly 2 months without issue.

Did you run a separate fuse block to the cab from the house battery? I would hook everything back up and run that meter around the truck and check for 12v+, like your backup camera, amps, etc, looking for things that have juice without the key in the ignition, most likely you'll find the culprit there.
 
I think I found the culprit. My Valentine 1 has been hooked up to the live dome 12V. When I unhooked it, reading went down to 0.1A. I will leave the truck sit for a few days to see if the V1 is the cause. Thanks everyone.
 
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Sounds like that might be it, how about the backup cam, does it have juice when the key is out?
 
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Even though I think you've nailed it now it wouldn't hurt to poke around and see what items have 12v to them when there isn't a key in the ignition, did you run a remote on for the amps so they only come on when the key is turned?
 
yeah I did for the amp to one of the wires in the quarter panel so they only come on when the key is turned.
 
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