So...I am assuming from the favorable comments about powder coating wheels that when the tire shop mounts the tires they don't scrape the paint of the rim?
Painting Stock Wheels (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DBrown2
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macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
spressomon said:
The shop I went to wouldn't guarantee they wouldn't scrape them, but they came out fine.
Do you know the specific name of the powder coat they used? I called and said flat military black and got a lesson on powder coat and the need for uv protection. The military does not use the kind with uv protection because of the need for absolutely no shine whatsever. He mentioned a satin finish with only 40% shine but with the uv protection. I was quoted $75 bucks a wheel because the chrome plating has to be bead blasted before the PC can be applied.
This is a future project. A second set of wheels powder coated satin black with MT tires will be nice.
uzj100
This is a future project. A second set of wheels powder coated satin black with MT tires will be nice.
uzj100
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
I didn't get UV protection on mine, I just hit 'em with Banana Boat before we head to the beach.
Saweet. Banana Boat. Very nice. No uv? Really...
- Thread starter
- #26
I played around this weekend. and Painted the spare. The graphite or gray color
What you think?
What you think?
sin,
that finish looks great on the wheel! now if toyo would hold up their end of the deal.
that finish looks great on the wheel! now if toyo would hold up their end of the deal.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
DBrown2 said:
What up with maskng tape?
- Thread starter
- #29
No time for masking tape, it was just a quick deal. That is what paint thinner is for. I just did a lite coat, to get a good solid color. To tell what it would look like.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
DBrown2 said:
In that case, do all of them. Any overspray on the body you can just clean up with paint thinner too.
I'd think the best durability would be to anodize the wheels. With anodizing, it's a very hard chemically bonded coating to the surface (that happens to have color, if you choose) while with powder coating, you're basically baking on a plastic coating. I've had some of the powder coating on my ARB winchbar peel off from abrasion, but it has been very UV-stable. I'm almost sure the powder coating will get dinged when the tire shop pulls off the wheel weights to replace tires (that even happened to my factory-painted honda wheels).
- Thread starter
- #32
Man you think....
I guess I deserved that, on the paint thinner....
Oh well, I guess I could get some LX wheels for bling and pder coat....
I guess I deserved that, on the paint thinner....
Oh well, I guess I could get some LX wheels for bling and pder coat....
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
DBrown2 said:I guess I could get some LX wheels for bling and pder coat....
Is this what you meant by bling Kaptain Krylon®?
Maybe you outta stick to the rattle can.
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It’s getting tuff on this thread…Just a bit of ribbing going on.
Jim I like your suggestion on the anodizing, but one will need to specify a hard coating, otherwise you will get a normal coating and the hard coating will cost a bit more.
I machined some aluminum door locks for my car and had them hard-anodized about 10 years ago and they are fine, they show some fading and some wear, but they look good. (See pictures) I’m not sure how they would look after the same time out in the environments though.
Tomorrow I will powder coat a “Q” test panel. I will take a picture of it before and after I hammer it into a flat fold/crease and then, undo it. After this, you will believe.
Dean
Jim I like your suggestion on the anodizing, but one will need to specify a hard coating, otherwise you will get a normal coating and the hard coating will cost a bit more.
I machined some aluminum door locks for my car and had them hard-anodized about 10 years ago and they are fine, they show some fading and some wear, but they look good. (See pictures) I’m not sure how they would look after the same time out in the environments though.
Tomorrow I will powder coat a “Q” test panel. I will take a picture of it before and after I hammer it into a flat fold/crease and then, undo it. After this, you will believe.
Dean
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- Thread starter
- #35
Wow, I am impressed.
I enjoy the ribbing, Keep it coming.
Just keep in mind I do own a 85 Yota Built, and a Yota Based Buggy, So its not like I am a first time on the block with offroad. Plus these where built with my hands, and not bought.
Now on to the thread, and back to topic.
Anodize may be away to go....
Oh well I will just keep them stock, spend money on a lift. Then call the wifes mall machine done.
I enjoy the ribbing, Keep it coming.
Just keep in mind I do own a 85 Yota Built, and a Yota Based Buggy, So its not like I am a first time on the block with offroad. Plus these where built with my hands, and not bought.
Now on to the thread, and back to topic.
Anodize may be away to go....
Oh well I will just keep them stock, spend money on a lift. Then call the wifes mall machine done.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
Fair enough. Look forward to seeing how the PC stands up to the bends.
The bends
Here is a Q-panel that was powder coated. The powder coat is a TGIC (triglyceride isocyanate) color is pearl black, 90% gloss, UV rated.
If you look closely, you can see where the rock underneath caused some damage while hammering on it. But the crease is un-damaged other than surface scratches on the glossy surface on the side that I hammered (using a plastic mallet).
The next few pictures are of me creasing it back and forth by hand to eliminate the glare form the scratches caused by the hammering. Gloss will always show scratches. If you can think of anything else for me to try on some test pieces let me know.
Dean
Here is a Q-panel that was powder coated. The powder coat is a TGIC (triglyceride isocyanate) color is pearl black, 90% gloss, UV rated.
If you look closely, you can see where the rock underneath caused some damage while hammering on it.
But the crease is un-damaged other than surface scratches on the glossy surface on the side that I hammered (using a plastic mallet). The next few pictures are of me creasing it back and forth by hand to eliminate the glare form the scratches caused by the hammering. Gloss will always show scratches. If you can think of anything else for me to try on some test pieces let me know.
Dean
More pictures
Here are more pictures of the hammering. Not any flaking of the paint on the crease. None.
Here are more pictures of the hammering. Not any flaking of the paint on the crease. None.
These are the picture of the hand job, uh…I mean the ones I bent by hand, to eliminate the glare I was getting caused by the flash.
If you like I can get a piece of anodized aluminum and hammer a bend (on the same rock) to see what happens. I think it will do fine, not sure about the scratches though. I don’t think I have any hard anodized lying around. But can probably do some standard anodized coating. I don’t anticipate any flaking. Because it’s not as shinny it will not show the fine scratches that appeared on the glossy surface on the PC.
Dean
Dean
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