paint finish

[AZcruiser]

As described I have a large section of swirl/oxidation forming on the hood over the engine and noticed a really bad spot up top near the rack, which is turning white :-[. The color is emerald. Havent really noticed it until before. I know there are 1-2-3 step polishes/compounds out there. Recomendations on brand/steps to use.. Maquires, TurtleWax??
thanks

 

[MoJ]

Maguires Cleaner Wax worked wonders on my black Tacoma. Pretty easy to work with and got rid of the swirls. Been meaning to try it on my LC. Wanna come wax mine first to see how you like it?

 

[cruiserdan]

The clearcoat has failed and the affected panel(s) will need to be re-finished. There is no band-aid fix available. Dig out your billfold or live with it. Toyota's stated re-finish procedure dictates that the re-finish be blended into adjacent panels. IE if the hood is bad, the fenders and cowl will need to be blended into. If the roof is bad, that means the upper tailgate and both quarter panels.

If your hood and roof are bad you are only the doors and lower tailgate away from a complete re-finish. (Been there, done that).

Count on at least $5,000.00 for a competent, complete, two-stage re-finish.

 

[MoJ]

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=16859;start=msg162593#msg162593 date=1085367434]
Count on at least $5,000.00 for a competent, complete, two-stage re-finish.
[/quote]

 

[turbocruiser]

As always, Dan is 100 percent correct. I play with restoring vehicles and am absolutely sure that if the clearcoat is coming white, particularly if it is powdery, then it is shot. Along with white appearance and powdery feel, if you look closely, you will likely see an almost wrinkled appearance, which is the 'paint shrinking'. All these things are the effects of exposure to elements and time. At this point the only option open is paintwork.

Now, if it is only the swirl marks that you first mentioned, then there are ways to fix that...
1. Get a bottle of 3M "Swirl Mark Remover" and get the one for either "dark" or "light" colored vehicles, as appropriate.
2. Using an RO buffer, buff the swirl mark remover into the finish, following the instructions. One thing that the instructions do not neccessarily explain but "time with the tools" teaches is that when you use the swirl mark removers, or fine cut cleaners, you work the product into a square section and work it literally from liquid to paste to powder to buffed off before going to the next slighty overlapping square section. IOW, so many people put hte product on wet and stop working it while it is still wet. This does not make the most of the product as it is designed to dissolve into smaller and smaller polishing particles. After many many many safe hours practicing with an RO buffer, eventually you can do this process with a high speed rotary buffer. Be warned that high speed rotary buffers in inexperienced hands will burn through paint, and will grab things like trim and antennas and accessories and rip them right off of the vehicle, ask me how I know. :-[
3. After the swirl mark remover process, wax and buff and many if not most swirl marks are gone.

Speeking of paint work and body work and such, I'd like to know, is there any way to go to the dealer, show them the VIN stickers on all the doors, hood, tail etc, and get them to reprint one that is fading? I have a sticker that for some reason does not seem to be the typical tape type sticker but a paper one. It is sorta wrinkled and fading but hte VIN is perfectly legible. I would think that if you could verify it was your vehicle and that there was no damage, yadda yadda yadda, you could get some certified sticker??? Am I smokin my socks again or is there a way to do this??? Thanks.

 

[AZcruiser]

I was afraid of this. The area that is whitish is up right near the crossmember of the rack, not a high visible area. But want to keep it from spreading. I usually give a good wax job each year here in AZ. The hood I will probably get repaitned, the PO had a bra and it dug deep into the paint to metal in 2 areas where the bend is toward the grille. The oxidation is right down the middle, thinking heat from the engine had something to do with it. I understand the blending into the fenders but is the really a big difference in color if the fenders werent painted?? I would rather spend the extra money on sliders

 

[GXO]

I have faded paint down to primer.

I am having a custom bed lining job done on all areas for less than $1200.

Just another option

 

[PHAEDRUS]

AZ,
if the prior owner had a bra on chances are they painted the hood. this is pretty uncommon for original paint but really common for cheap fixes. the oprions are to either fix it or let it go. the roof I would let it go but the hood should not be too bad to repair. probably less than $500. wich in the body shop business is a really small job. My clear has completely let go on the hood of my truck and ah well here is what it will look like in 2 years. I just cant bring myself to paint my hood. if I did I would blen the fenders. if I blend the fenders I would need to fix the dents and scratches and then it spreads back on the truck and I am looking at a complete repaint. I would rather have some goodies.
Dave