"Painless" ignition wireing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Threads
33
Messages
236
Location
Medford Oregon
I've got my harness (#10143) all re-routed to look good under the dash, and all the wires that go to one location taped and labeled. I came across the ignition wire group only to find there is only 3 wires. I don't have the Brown #732 that should be hooked up to the ACC (Blue/Red) wire (I looked at every wire).

I called Painless today and they said I should put in a jumper between the ACC (Blue/Red) and the IGN (Black/Yellow) and just hook up the IGN wire. They said this will power the ACC with the key turned.

Did any of you guys have to do this, it seems silly?????? Won't this make the starter turn constantly in the ACC position????

I told them no way did I spend $400 on this kit only to have to "****** rig" connections to "make them work" when the kit should of come with it, and the instructions say it should come with it. I have to call back tomorrow and talk to the guy that designed the land cruiser harness.
 
You should have four primary feed wires from your ignition switch. I am not familiar with Painful, but it's pretty standard. You have Battery, Accessory, Ignition and Start. Start runs the starter motor only. Usually a purple wire. Ignition provides 12 volts when you have the car in run and start. This is used for your coil, maybe EFI computer whatever needs to have power in the start mode. Accessory is for the rest of the car that needs 12 volts, but not when you are in the start mode. The theory is to minimize the draw on the battery during start mode. Examples would be your heater, wipers, etc. What Painless did is have you wire the ACCY and Ignition circuit together. No real harm here, but everything will be on during the start cycle.

Don
 
If you get a Chebby steering column and ignition switch, then the Painless will be less painful and plug compatible for most things except the gauges and the few stock Toyota devices that you keep. There are also major differences in how the Painless works for cruisers before and after '75, so if you have a '75 and up you may want a GM column even more.
 
So i've just looked over the harness again. There are only 3 wires that go to the ignition, but there instructions call for 4 wires, and when I called them last week they gave me the instructions over the phone to hook up 4 wires, including the Brown #732. There needs to be four wires, battery, ignition, accessory, and start. There solution to running a jumper will overload the entire circuit when put in the start position because all the accessories will be on, and my fear is that in the accessory position, the starter will still spin because it will be trying to start the motor in the accessory position.
Any thoughts?????
 
Whatever you figure out please post up, I also have kit #10143 waiting to install in my new to me 1969 fj40 (kit came with the 40).

Please post up anything else you find to be an issue, i'm kinda intimidated by how many wires there are. But I plan on taking a week or two to do it.

Also, what other things did you order to go with the rewiring of you fj40.

I plan on ordering: Ignition switch, Headlight switch, a couple extra relays, a few switches for lights, a few 40A Circut breakers, gauges, ground straps.

btw, I have a toyota steering colum and I have no idea on how to wire the turn signal switch so if you got that figured out please help me out:hillbilly:
 
Holly cow RattleCan that's awesome, thanks.

Since your in Seattle I may have a "care package" of electrical stuff for you as well. Basically there is no accessory system with this kit, but you can run a new wire from the ACC position of the ignition, through a fuse, to whatever you want, like the radio.

I spent another 5 hours last night re-organizing the wires. I'm putting all the wires that go together in groups and labeling the ends so when I put the harness in I'm not researching every wire in the truck.

Ill PM you, gota go to work now
 
chevypower, where are you mounting your fuse block? I am thinking mine is going in the cab. I don't want to put it in the engine bay even though it's waterproof.

Just ordered all my switches from race-mart.com Great prices

Also picked up a GM tilt steering colum that will make wiring turn signals a lot easier
 
Guys, I realize it's been a few years, but i'm about to start wiring my '74 FJ40 with the Painless system. Do y'all have any tips or tricks that might help me out?
 
Painless is not.
Think of it as a new fuse block and wire for you to make your own OEM harness. Become familiar with the factory wiring diagram. Replace the stock wires one at a time and you will eventually get done.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom