P2: Refreshing GCC FJ80, 1991, G, Tan (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 19, 2023
Threads
3
Messages
445
Location
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
TIME FOR A NEW DOCUMENTATION:
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  • TOYOTA LAND CRUISER, FJ80, LHD
  • 1991, GCC, Saudi spec
  • AC and Heater
  • G spec
    "Just don't say poverty package, it is a cringe."
  • Tan with original body
  • About 140 km
    "86000 miles"
  • Manual five-speed, H150
  • 3F engine, carburetor
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Walk around video


engine video


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Salam,
Toyota released the 80 in response to the legendary Nissan Patrol; no time for a new engine, so the 3F was in the game with its outdated design. Nissan equipped with the TB42, but with an overhead cam; that was good enough to make a better choice for GCC and its use. When Toyota released the 1FZ-F, the game changed.


Last March, I found this low-mileage G for sale by its first owner; he claimed that he himself drove it from the transport truck when it was new, and now he wants to sell it before he dies. He is about 85 or so. The truck was primarily out of the sun's reach. The interior got a lot of covers, so it is new inside—NO cracks on the dash.

  • Then why did you get it where you can find FZJ instead of FJ?
    It is G, clean, I love 3F, and classy with its beautiful straps. The body is original except for one area that I am going to redo. Also, it could be a solid truck to be swapped with other engines.

  • Is this truck going to be for sale?
    Yes, it is. This thread is to document every step for potential buyers.

  • Where is the truck at the moment?
    The truck is not in the USA yet; it is in Saudi Arabia to be fixed.

  • What is your plan for this truck?
    To restore it to as much stock as I can. The plan is to refurbish it with new mechanical parts and plastics for the body. It is an iconic truck for Toyota. I want it for people who want to drive slowly on the weekends and travel with it.

  • Are you going to build it as an off-road rig?
    I am not. However, if you buy it and plan to flip it for off-roading, I would say it is a good base for that. My friend @wngrog can modify it as much as you need

  • But duuuuuude, this thing is a 3F and slow. Can I swap it?
    The only swap I can offer you is to install a 1FZ-FE to be as stock as I can. I do not do diesel or V8 swaps."IF YOU BUY IT." However, the carburetor 3F with the H150 drives pretty well. You can swap the carb to Holly Sniper, or I can get you a new OEM carburetor.


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Got the truck, then first things first is taking closer shots to document what I got. It is pretty solid and drives smoothly because of the H150 trans.

Dry dusty bay
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The heater has been deleted, and it will be back
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Engine bay after a quick wash

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That starter is gorgeous with its blue link

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One more thing I need to address is that the rear end of the exhaust has been welded. Toyota, for some reason, made the rear end with a pipe clamp. Once it loosens, people tend to take off and then wield it

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Okay, let's collect parts!


The truck went to the shop to be fixed underneath. This includes the following:

Roters and drums
All brake lines
All rear drum compartments
all arm control bushes
all seals and bearings for front and rear diffs
and more.

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These nasty drum brakes are all new with new wires and cylinders
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All parts have been washed with gas to be ready for the new parts.
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The oil in the front diff was soooo bad. I knew the previous owner would not open up such a part, so I thought to do so. So, we washed the carrier and ensured everything was in order inside.

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Brakes are all new, and the front axle got new Aisin hub lockers as well. I did not replace the shocks. I tried to order monotubs from Dabinson, but unfortunately, no luck. I'll try later, maybe with springs as well.

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What next?
During the work and the daily use, I listed things that need to be tackled:

  • The second tank is switching, but for some reason, the car gets no gas after a couple of minutes of driving
  • Inspect front and rear shafts
  • Wash and hock up the heater core. "May Allah prevent the pipe from rusting or breaking."
  • Fix or replace the AC fan blower. I'll clean the evaporator from the fan access only.
  • Work on the engine bay with new cooling system parts, including a new OEM radiator with all outlets, valve, hoses, pump, pipes, and other components.
  • Let's hope that the oil cooler is not rusty. IF yes, I am obligated to replace it with OEM.
  • Rear muffler and the mess that previes ooner did, even tho I feel whoever's gonna buy it in the USA is gonna swap it.
  • Deep wash inside and polish outside; however, the front door and rear door must be fixed. After that, install all weatherstrips and runs, except for the windshield and barn door glasses' weatherstrips. "I already collected them from my shelf and the market."
  • And put new OEM stripes on the right side only. "I have hoarded those red stripes in my shelf for Nolan, but he did a cut locally, so I'll use them for mine."
  • Last thing, find out a new front bumper. "Some ***n kid did dent it for me."
 
Over here, you can see the old fix of the door. The plan is to paint the front and rear doors from the top of the strip to the bottom, and keep the top area original. The rear door got some extra paint from the old work. And I'll do my best to find a step to be replaced.

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Looking at my strips collection to make sure I have a full set or only the right side. Good thing is I have the two door on the right where the dent at. will be looking for the rest if i can.


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I have been shopping for parts for the engine refresh and have found some rare components, but I'm unsure whether to proceed with them. As I mentioned at the beginning, this project will be as stock as possible.

Some parts I found

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