P1442, P1445 - Secondary Air Intake Advice Needed

[snowmatt1]

Hi all,

If you'll recall from previous posts, I'm not mechanical. :/

My 06 LC just started throwing the codes P1442 and P1445, and started sounding noticeably louder. My reading indicates some expensive problems with the air intake and a workaround:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/06-07-air-induction-pump-failure-bypass.814912
90k service = blown air pump!!!

Before I take to dealer or Yotamasters, I was wondering if anyone had some sage advice? Knowing my limitations I'm not going to tackle this on my own.

Thanks!

 

[snowmatt1]

Also, how bad is it to keep driving this as is?

 

[snowmatt1]

OK, great feedback y'all

I'm taking it to the Toyota dealer today and I'll update this thread for future searchers on what I find out.

 

[Irshfshr]

I have an 06 Cruiser, and 05 Sequoia, both of which are known to have the Secondary Air Pump, or Secondary Air System (essentially a smog pump) go out. It is a problem with all of the VVTi 4.7 Toyota vehicles (Tundra, 4Runner, LC, Sequoia, LX 470, etc.) The pump went out on my Sequoia and I did some research. What follows is my best recollection based on the research I did on this topic about 2 years ago, so make sure to do your own research and confirm.

The pump sits under the air intake manifold and is quite expensive to replace. The purpose of the pump is to quickly super-heat the exhaust, namely the catalytic converters, to improve your emissions during cold start-ups. The pump is used only at this time and is not essential for any other purpose. However, if the pump degrades, as mine did, and you continue to drive without doing anything about it, internal parts of the pump can break loose and become lodged somewhere in your exhaust/intake system and cause major issues. You can replace the pump ($$$$$) or the other route is to order a bypass kit online which includes blocking plates to be installed on the two lines which proceed from the pump. This prevents any of those broken parts in the pump from causing any damage. The kit also includes an electrical component which taps into the wiring harness downstream of your Mass Airflow Sensor, but upstream of your intake manifold, thereby leaving the broken pump in place, but wiring around it so that it never comes on. This is the route I went, but since I am a novice wrencher with very almost no electrical knowledge I had a friend do the wiring.

One more thing to note: working around the factory intake/emissions system, as the above mentioned kit does, is not legal for highway driven (or public road driven) vehicles in California, and for that reason you will see the kit sold as "for use in off-highway vehicles only." However, many people, including myself have installed the kit and not had issues passing smog tests. It would take a highly trained technician, looking specifically for this modification, for it to be noticed during the visual inspection aspect of the smog test.

Good luck.

 

[snowmatt1]

Wow, great report. So I literally just hung up with Toyota. They confirm just about everything you said and I had read. The bad news is the quote was for $2400 to replace it. The good news is I know the manager over there and I’m getting a steep discount, so I’m going to have them do it for me

 

[camino70]

That's a pricey repair, I'd be looking at a bypass kit.
06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass

 

[snowmatt1]

Yeah definitely a good option but I’m paykng the $1500 discount rate to have it done right. Though by @Irshfshr’s report it sounds like the bypass is just fine.

 

[Irshfshr]

Not sure how long you've had your LC or how many miles are on it, I've had mine just over a year and done all the minor/moderate Preventative Maintenance work myselft (new rotors/pads, replaced AHC fluid, engine coolant, thermostat, HEATER TEES!!!!!!, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc.). From what I've read the starter, also being under the air intake manifold, is a real PITA to replace. I don't know what kind of life to expect out of the starter, but if I I were going to have somebody replace that SAS pump or do it myself for that matter, I'd at least look into the prospect of replacing the starter as Preventative Maintenance. I might be way off, but if you're already going to pay someone to get in there, it might be worth at least looking into. Perhaps ask LC2001 what he thinks about it. He's been a great resource in responding to my questions.

Also, ask your dealer about parts pricing. It might be worth your while to purchase the parts on your own. There are dealers that offer on-line prices that can't be beat. I've been using Norwalk Toyota as they have the best prices I've found for factory replacement parts. Sometimes their on-line parts websites can be difficult to navigate, and I've found that calling the the dealer does not tend to work as the guy who answers the phone at the part dept. can't match the on-line prices offered at the same dealership. Go figure?

 

[Cantatan]

Guys I live in Orange County area. Looking for a mechanic shop that can install the bypass kit for me. Ideally in South OC or North San Diego. All help appreciated

 

[Pjo113]

Guys I live in Orange County area. Looking for a mechanic shop that can install the bypass kit for me. Ideally in South OC or North San Diego. All help appreciated

Unless you have physical limitation and are unable to do it, I'd recommend just doing it your self. The bypass module install is very simple and will only take a couple of minutes. Toughest part of this is removing the starter fuse for the relay wire. The block off plates are a little more involved but also relatively easy to do even for a noob like I.

 

[Cantatan]

I would certainly do this myself if I had the space. I live in an apartment complex so dont have anywhere to do it

 

[ArnieC]

Its honestly not that hard to get and keep the system working right. If the fan is shot, a GM fan will replace that and just costs around $100. If a hose is split, those are cheap enough from the dealer. If the valves are stuck, those are not too bad to replace once the intake is out, or they can be cleaned out with brake cleaner. The little solenoids really should not fail, it would be rare. 99% of the time the problem is with a split or disconnected hose or a failed fan.

I would rather keep my rig functioning as intended than put in a bypass module, but thats just me.

 

[JessPurviance]

This winter I started getting codes p1442 and p1445. I would clear the code and it would be a week or sometimes 3 weeks before the code came up again. This went on for months. I called my Toyota dealership and talked to a tech about possibly replacing the system.

Long story short, figured out that moisture was probably getting in and freezing on the valves, making them stick enough for the code to be thrown. It seems like this is probable. I took a trip to Colorado, where the air was dry and despite the single digits temps, never got the code and I was there a week. At home if I let it warm up properly for short trips, I don't get the code. If I take several short trips in the cold, when the truck doesn't properly warm up, the odds are the next morning, if it's below freezing I could get the code. Not everytime, but after enough to be annoying.

 

[BnvS]

This winter I started getting codes p1442 and p1445. I would clear the code and it would be a week or sometimes 3 weeks before the code came up again. This went on for months. I called my Toyota dealership and talked to a tech about possibly replacing the system.

Long story short, figured out that moisture was probably getting in and freezing on the valves, making them stick enough for the code to be thrown. It seems like this is probable. I took a trip to Colorado, where the air was dry and despite the single digits temps, never got the code and I was there a week. At home if I let it warm up properly for short trips, I don't get the code. If I take several short trips in the cold, when the truck doesn't properly warm up, the odds are the next morning, if it's below freezing I could get the code. Not everytime, but after enough to be annoying.

@JessPurviance hey were you able to solve this issue with these 2 codes? I am getting the same codes p1442 and rarely P1445 on my 06 Tundra with the same engine. I am wondering what is the best way to troubleshoot the issue and just get it fixed. I would try the bypass method but I am hearing its not as full proof as other codes pop up. Although through bypassing you probably get the code fixed around 97% of the time..

But if there is a good fix like taking out the manifold and just replacing the Air switching valve or similar.. I would rather just bite the PITA install and do that. But no where does it give a good way to get to troubleshoot this issue properly.

 

[JessPurviance]

@JessPurviance hey were you able to solve this issue with these 2 codes? I am getting the same codes p1442 and rarely P1445 on my 06 Tundra with the same engine. I am wondering what is the best way to troubleshoot the issue and just get it fixed. I would try the bypass method but I am hearing its not as full proof as other codes pop up. Although through bypassing you probably get the code fixed around 97% of the time..

But if there is a good fix like taking out the manifold and just replacing the Air switching valve or similar.. I would rather just bite the PITA install and do that. But no where does it give a good way to get to troubleshoot this issue properly.

@BnvS I never fixed it. It still throws the code periodically, but I either clear it myself or wait a day or two and it clears on it's own.

 

[BnvS]

@JessPurviance So I installed the AIP bypass. Its a DIY bypass but you can do yourself for cheap or buy a $50 kit from ebay that essentially bypass the AIP at start so it will not cause any issues or throw any codes.. it essentially is like having a <2004 LC engine which didnt have the Air injection pumps and all..Let me know it you need a link

 

[Smobien]

ust did this on a 2007 Land Cruiser after a SAIS bank two valve stuck closed CEL.

Block of plates were a pain, no real way around that. Passenger side can be accessed from the top, although tight, it’s doable. The driver side I accessed from underneath the vehicle with a really long extension.

When it came to wiring the starter relay the instructions included were catered more towards a Tundra or Sequoia. I know there are slight variations between the Land Cruiser, Tundra, Sequoia and 4Runner models with the 4.7. Some have VVTi others do not, some have a starting system that I can only describe as you don’t need to hold the key in the start position to start the vehicle. Just turn they key to start and release the vehicle will start itself. My 06 4Runner had the same system.

The relay is brown, not purple like in the instructions provided. It has 4 spades on the bottom all of which are silver. Two large and two small with holes.

All of the photos I took are standing at the driver fender looking down at the fuse block. The pole closest to the engine (12 o’clock on the fuse block) only gets 5-12v on crank. The pole at 9 o’clock gets 8v when the ignition is switched on. The pole at 3 o’clock gets nothing (I assume its ground). The pole at 6 o’clock is constant 12v (assuming this is battery).

I called Hewitt-Tech and spoke to them. They told my wiring assessment was correct and I provided them with photos to maybe update their instructions for late model Land Cruisers.

Worth it!

 

[HBovrlndr]

@JessPurviance So I installed the AIP bypass. Its a DIY bypass but you can do yourself for cheap or buy a $50 kit from ebay that essentially bypass the AIP at start so it will not cause any issues or throw any codes.. it essentially is like having a <2004 LC engine which didnt have the Air injection pumps and all..Let me know it you need a link

Yeah, if you don't mind. What is the link for the 50 kit from ebay?

 

[SuperExciteBike]

I have an 06 Cruiser, and 05 Sequoia, both of which are known to have the Secondary Air Pump, or Secondary Air System (essentially a smog pump) go out. It is a problem with all of the VVTi 4.7 Toyota vehicles (Tundra, 4Runner, LC, Sequoia, LX 470, etc.) The pump went out on my Sequoia and I did some research. What follows is my best recollection based on the research I did on this topic about 2 years ago, so make sure to do your own research and confirm.

The pump sits under the air intake manifold and is quite expensive to replace. The purpose of the pump is to quickly super-heat the exhaust, namely the catalytic converters, to improve your emissions during cold start-ups. The pump is used only at this time and is not essential for any other purpose. However, if the pump degrades, as mine did, and you continue to drive without doing anything about it, internal parts of the pump can break loose and become lodged somewhere in your exhaust/intake system and cause major issues. You can replace the pump ($$$$$) or the other route is to order a bypass kit online which includes blocking plates to be installed on the two lines which proceed from the pump. This prevents any of those broken parts in the pump from causing any damage. The kit also includes an electrical component which taps into the wiring harness downstream of your Mass Airflow Sensor, but upstream of your intake manifold, thereby leaving the broken pump in place, but wiring around it so that it never comes on. This is the route I went, but since I am a novice wrencher with very almost no electrical knowledge I had a friend do the wiring.

One more thing to note: working around the factory intake/emissions system, as the above mentioned kit does, is not legal for highway driven (or public road driven) vehicles in California, and for that reason you will see the kit sold as "for use in off-highway vehicles only." However, many people, including myself have installed the kit and not had issues passing smog tests. It would take a highly trained technician, looking specifically for this modification, for it to be noticed during the visual inspection aspect of the smog test.

Good luck.

@Irshfshr If you are able to check when you purchased the bypass kit, did you do the Gen I or Gen II kit?

 

[districtAERO]

ust did this on a 2007 Land Cruiser after a SAIS bank two valve stuck closed CEL.

Block of plates were a pain, no real way around that. Passenger side can be accessed from the top, although tight, it’s doable. The driver side I accessed from underneath the vehicle with a really long extension.

When it came to wiring the starter relay the instructions included were catered more towards a Tundra or Sequoia. I know there are slight variations between the Land Cruiser, Tundra, Sequoia and 4Runner models with the 4.7. Some have VVTi others do not, some have a starting system that I can only describe as you don’t need to hold the key in the start position to start the vehicle. Just turn they key to start and release the vehicle will start itself. My 06 4Runner had the same system.

The relay is brown, not purple like in the instructions provided. It has 4 spades on the bottom all of which are silver. Two large and two small with holes.

All of the photos I took are standing at the driver fender looking down at the fuse block. The pole closest to the engine (12 o’clock on the fuse block) only gets 5-12v on crank. The pole at 9 o’clock gets 8v when the ignition is switched on. The pole at 3 o’clock gets nothing (I assume its ground). The pole at 6 o’clock is constant 12v (assuming this is battery).

I called Hewitt-Tech and spoke to them. They told my wiring assessment was correct and I provided them with photos to maybe update their instructions for late model Land Cruisers.

Worth it!

Assuming the 9 o'clock pole is the one to connect the bypass module wire to, the one that gets 8V when ignition is on? Don't have a voltage tester handy and would rather not fry the bypass module... Thanks!