P0302, Oil in Cylinder= New Engine?

[skinnyhb]

It's been a while since I've been elbow deep in our Land Cruiser or lurking on these boards, so forgive some of my terminology and lack of knowledge.

I posted recently about a vibration that got better with acceleration/RPM. I originally thought it was a motor mount, but when the Check Engine light started flashing, I knew something else was amiss.

So, I took it to a local mechanic. Unfortunately, with a 4 week old infant, new business and no garage to work in, I'm not in a great place for wrenching on vehicle we need for a driver.

The mechanic said it was throwing a code p3020, as well as a p0420 and that cylinder #2 is misfiring. The plug was covered in oil and crud. No picture, as the mechanic re-installed. I can pull it if necessary for a picture. They also took a borescope to the cylinder and said that it is "full of oil". They have not diagnosed the actual root of the problem yet, but their recommendation is to get a re-manufactured engine.

Perhaps it's just my wallet speaking, but I have a hard time jumping to that conclusion. Should I seek out a second opinion, have them do some deeper diagnostic, or start shopping for a new/rebuilt engine?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[elhombre]

Could be bad. A compression test would tell alot. On a more optimistic view point, it could be a bad spark plug wire. Is there water in the oil in the form of white sledge on the fill cap? Oil in the radiator expansion bottle?

 

[skinnyhb]

Not in the radiator expansion bottle. Just a little on the fill cap, but I've been told that the amount is fairly normal for a vehicle that only travels short distances.

 

[blkprj80]

I think the only ways for oil to get in there on top of the piston is to get by the rings, or come by the valve stem seal.
If you had a plug that was fouled or not firing for some reason, it could be pumping oil past the rings.
It should have been throwing P0302, not P0320. Maybe a typo?
I'd seek out a second opinion. Check spark at #2. Check distributor cap & wires.
If you do get it running, plan on checking #2 plug a few times as whatever junk is in there may foul your plug until you get it burned off.
A compression test will tell you if your valves are closing well.

 

[skinnyhb]

Thanks, and yep, it was 0302. My bad.

 

[SouthCo]

Sub'd to see how you get it sorted out.

 

[NLXTACY]

I had the PO302, PO306 and PO401 and it was all traced to faulty engine harness wiring right behind the EGR valve. Of course that doesn't explain the oil but could these be unrelated?

 

[skinnyhb]

As far as I understand it, the code is for the misfire, which was caused by a faulty spark plug, which was caused by oil in the cylinder.

 

[TrickyT]

Agree with elhombre: Do a compression test and leakdown test. I suspect cyl #2 will be way out of norm compared to the others (hence the P0302 code) and the only way to know more after that is to pull the head. If this has been going on for a while your cats could have gotten clogged from all the oil you're pushing through the motor (hence the P0420). But you didn't say anything about vehicle mileage or oil consumption and this is also important info. Doubt if it's a wiring harness issue.

 

[skinnyhb]

Mileage is a few miles away from 200k. I am losing about a quart or so every time I fill the tank.

 

[skinnyhb]

So it is sounding like replacing the engine is a very real possibility. Is there a reputable source that people have been utilizing lately?

 

[TrickyT]

Again, do a compression test and leakdown test. This will help differentiate between rings and valve stem seals. There's a huge difference in cost in getting a valve job versus rebuilding/replacing the motor.

 

[skinnyhb]

Alright, so report back from the mechanic is:

"Compression Test:
#1: 135, #2: 85, #3: 130, #4: 125, #5: 125, #6, 115

Cylinder Leak Down Test:
#1= 5%, #2= 70%, #3= 34%, #4= 25%, #5= 22%, #6= 24%

Found cylinder 2 has the lowest compression at 85psi and the most leakage at 70%, which sounds like it is going into the crank case, indicating a ring issue..."

 

[Danimal92sport]

Same shop do the compression and leak down test that originally diagnosed? Take it to another shop and have the tests redone. If the results are in the same ballpark, you've got a real problem with cylinder #2. If not, bad diagnosis and the original shop may not be trustworthy.

I've worked in shops and know this story. It's worth your time and the small amount of money for a diagnosis and test at another shop as compared to an engine overhaul or replacement.

 

[skinnyhb]

I agree that it is probably worth the time and money to do another test. Unfortunately/fortunately, I don't think this shop is trying to screw me. He comes recommended by friends and has said several times, sincerely, that he encourages me to shop around, find a cheaper option, etc, rather than pay him the $6k.

 

[TrickyT]

Alright, so report back from the mechanic is: "Compression Test: #1: 135, #2: 85, #3: 130, #4: 125, #5: 125, #6, 115 Cylinder Leak Down Test: #1= 5%, #2= 70%, #3= 34%, #4= 25%, #5= 22%, #6= 24% Found cylinder 2 has the lowest compression at 85psi and the most leakage at 70%, which sounds like it is going into the crank case, indicating a ring issue..."

OK, so not good. I've got no reason to doubt the expertise/integrity of your mechanic so without disassembly and visual inspection to provide definitive data, I'd say the prognosis for this motor is poor. The leak down test, especially if your guy thinks the air is going into the crankcase, means scored cylinder walls and/or failed piston rings. This is little unusual for this motor, but not unheard of. Your decision now is rebuild or replace with used motor. Rebuilding requires a machinest you trust, while replacement with a used motor less skills. Choose carefully.

And sorry for your loss.

 

[Grouseman]

So what did you do? Replace motor, rebuild motor?