bloc
SILVER Star
Agreed. Thanks for further digging in to this.A slow degradation like failure mode wouldn't necessarily be subject to a recall, but 140k miles for a Toyota / Denso design, on a Lexus / Land Cruiser doesn't meet expectations.
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Agreed. Thanks for further digging in to this.A slow degradation like failure mode wouldn't necessarily be subject to a recall, but 140k miles for a Toyota / Denso design, on a Lexus / Land Cruiser doesn't meet expectations.
It is possible to get the module out without dropping the tank but you’ll have to cut the floor of the vehicle to enlarge the hole enough to get it out. @grinchy did this on his aux tank install.Welp, I may be on this path, too. I tested using the procedure found in a tube video, in which the mechanic puts the tester on a Toyota 4.8. Looked similar enough.
Notes:
- engine cold, over night
- (foot off brake pedal) two 'start' button pushes *should* have brought pressure up in system (per video). It did not. (who knows, maybe the LC does not do that)
- (foot on brake pedal) single 'start' button push to start engine. Engine starts, get out to check fuel pressure gauge: ~32psi
- rev engine, get out, check fuel pressure gauge: ~25psi
- rev engine while standing and hanging over door to get video of gauge during revving: ~25psi idle, drop to ~22psi at start of rev, no higher than ~32psi at max rev (note: did not redline, just gently rev up to ~2k RPM.
Can we generally agree that I have to perform the @TeCKis300 procedure and replace the pump assembly inside the main tank? If so, it's going to be a huge two-tank wrenching party, during which I will atone for the sins of whoever installed the LRA originally.
- My battery was not super great anymore, and being an AGM in this LC I suspected some weakness; replaced with new lead-acid battery last week.
- Vehicle has 24G LRA installed, but not perfectly done; LRA guys told me I was missing a breather box in the expected/recommended place, but that it *could* be under the tank. Status: unknown (i.e., I have to pull the LRA anyways)
Sigh.
Yeah, if my aux tank install was solid, i would have considered that. But it all has to come out and be made beautiful.It is possible to get the module out without dropping the tank but you’ll have to cut the floor of the vehicle to enlarge the hole enough to get it out. @grinchy did this on his aux tank install.
Welp, I may be on this path, too. I tested using the procedure found in a tube video, in which the mechanic puts the tester on a Toyota 4.8. Looked similar enough.
Notes:
- engine cold, over night
- (foot off brake pedal) two 'start' button pushes *should* have brought pressure up in system (per video). It did not. (who knows, maybe the LC does not do that)
- (foot on brake pedal) single 'start' button push to start engine. Engine starts, get out to check fuel pressure gauge: ~32psi
- rev engine, get out, check fuel pressure gauge: ~25psi
- rev engine while standing and hanging over door to get video of gauge during revving: ~25psi idle, drop to ~22psi at start of rev, no higher than ~32psi at max rev (note: did not redline, just gently rev up to ~2k RPM.
Can we generally agree that I have to perform the @TeCKis300 procedure and replace the pump assembly inside the main tank? If so, it's going to be a huge two-tank wrenching party, during which I will atone for the sins of whoever installed the LRA originally.
- My battery was not super great anymore, and being an AGM in this LC I suspected some weakness; replaced with new lead-acid battery last week.
- Vehicle has 24G LRA installed, but not perfectly done; LRA guys told me I was missing a breather box in the expected/recommended place, but that it *could* be under the tank. Status: unknown (i.e., I have to pull the LRA anyways)
Sigh.
Great point. I'd feel the same way.Yeah, if my aux tank install was solid, i would have considered that. But it all has to come out and be made beautiful.
@TeCKis300 : I'm through the fuel pump replacement and have the main back in. Note to obsessive forum wrenchsearchers: you can do this, the information is all here or in TecKis300's repair thread.Didn't think I could tear apart the pump effectively, but you encouraged me to give it a short. Was easier than expected.
Cut apart filter sock - looks good.
View attachment 3080283
Working the head off like a tin can. Can already see that the pump impeller fins have wear.
View attachment 3080251
There's clear wear inside on all surfaces with impeller runout. You can see on the circumference of the housing left of the arrow wear from the impeller. On the impeller itself, aluminum transfer marks on ~1/3 of the wheel showing contact with the housing.
View attachment 3080289
Housing and cap showing wear.
View attachment 3080276
View attachment 3080277
The impeller to motor shaft wasn't even clearance fit and slips right off. I attribute the original failure to wear at this interface, allowing play and slop of the impeller.
In the larger Denso fuel pump recalls, they note - Low-density impellers inside Denso branded fuel pumps are cracking and limiting the amount of gas reaching the engine. In that failure mode, it would be catastrophic. Albeit more a brittle failure mode. Fundamentally, it still indicates that the impellers may be low-density and weak.
I believe in my case, that weakness manifested in wear at the shaft to impeller interface driving more premature wear. A slow degradation like failure mode wouldn't necessarily be subject to a recall, but 140k miles for a Toyota / Denso design, on a Lexus / Land Cruiser doesn't meet expectations.
It’s a relic of the transition to gasoline direct injection, I think. When those started to come out they took a look at fuel quality in the states and realized the vast majority of the time contaminants that make it through the sock can pass right through a port injection system without harming it, unlike in a GDI setup. So those got the filters.Looks like the filter was doing its job. The original LRA pump comes with a tiny inline filter too. It might be worth replacing or even upgrading it if you go back in to update the prior LRA install.
I have offten wondered why the petrol 200 doesn't come with a servicable external filter. I know the group chatted about it on here before. It wouldn't help a clogged fuel sock scenario, but might allow is to eliminate the sock and replace it with a high volume inline (and easliy servicable) cartridge. I have to imagine this is an issue seen in places where clean gas is less readily available. Then again, maybe there are more diesel engines in those environments and that engine does come with external filters. It even seems like we have removable factory covers where a fuel filter might live inside the frame rails.
Interesting times. Gone are the bank 1 and 2 lean codes, and fuel consumption closer to normal. Also, LRA plumbing and various body mods are done. So is that awesome anti-squeak CC bracket mod someone here poasted.
Now, however, I'm faced with double the codes related to canister vent and vale stuck on/off codes.
Searched high and low, but cannot find the thread in which someone cut open and diagnosed the charcoal canister, but cannot find. How do you tell if CC is fouled? The valve worked fine on bench test. I also had big hiss on first refuel when opening gas cap. Not normal and it did not do that before 'fix.' Frustrating beyond belief.
Is there an answer on how to plumb the LRA to *not* have venting flow issues?
Gonna call LRA USA tomorrow and appeal for insight, too.
Then, i cut goat and burn incense. Can't hurt. Well, maybe the goat.
Edit/add: mpg must still be horrible at idle. Can see numbers crash in the 'since last fill-up' number at stoplight.