Builds Ozy's 2007 LX "Build"

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Joined
Sep 10, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
53
Location
Georgia
Hey everyone! I just picked up my 2007 LX470 this week, and have been reading IH8MUD forums non stop. This really won't be much of a build thread, but I have some mild plans for this truck and I'm going to try to catalog all the modifications and repairs here, mostly for my own record keeping I suppose. Thanks for looking!



First, the intended purpose of my LX: utility. I'm coming from a 2 door Jeep JK, and I want something with more room, more comfort, and more reliability. I also want to spend less money on the vehicle in the long run. We'll see how that one goes. This truck should be able to get my wife and I up and down mountain fire roads and trails for our camping adventures, have room for children in the future, and haul lumber occasionally via a roof rack or a trailer.

Now a list of issues:
  • Tires
  • Pressure sensor batteries
    • Constantly flashing pressure light
  • SRS light
    • On solid when truck is running
    • Replaced clockspring. B0101 SRS Error
  • Leather condition/cracks
  • No auxiliary/Bluetooth audio inputs
    • Installed BT45-TOY
  • No information on timing belt status
    • 90k mile service performed April 2020.
Lastly, a list of ideas I'd like to explore:
  • Roof rack
    • Full width and length
    • Hold 4' x 8' plywood
    • Low profile
  • Bumpers
    • Improve approach and departure angles
    • Mount a winch
  • Running boards
    • Just delete?
    • Add sliders?
  • Lift
    • Sticking with AHC unless necessary to swap.
  • Lockers
    • Not necessary at this time
  • Head Unit
    • Android Auto
    • Climate controls?
    • Not tackling this project at this time.
  • Cargo drawers
  • Electric fan
  • LEDs
    • Interior/Exterior
    • Only a few things on the interior left.

20190909_171404.jpg
 
Last edited:
Congrats!
 
Alright I've done a few things to move this whole process forward a bit:
  • I ordered a set of Falken Wildpeak A/TW3's in 275/65R18. They should be here Monday.
    • Amazon - $173.38/tire + tax = $753.00
    • Local shops quoted me $1050 - $1550 for the same setup. I'll just have the tires mounted at a shop I've been to in the past for $80 extra. $833.00 isn't too bad, IMO.
  • I pulled out my old Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 and used Techstream to pull codes for the warning lights.
    • SRS
      • B0101 - Open in D Squib Circuit
        • eBay $39.99
        • Rock Auto $217.99
        • Advance Auto Parts $338.99
    • TPMS
      • This had a few codes, so I cleared them and I'm going to see what comes back. So far nothing.
  • I ordered a BT45-TOY to add auxiliary and BT audio to the head unit.
    • Amazon $138.15
  • I modified the ProClip USA phone holder from my Jeep and used some Gorilla double stick tape to mount right above the vent on the driver's side of the head unit. While not as elegant as the proper mount, it completely clears the vent and saves me $30.
 
Congrats on the car!

My input:

Lockers - see how ATRAC does for you first. For many, it's all they need.
Lift - as above, see how AHC in high does first. The 100, even without the AHC high, is very capable. Less than your JK, perhaps, but better than most other SUVs and good enough for most "jeep trails". Also, you can use 275/70/18 without rub. I'd upsize your tires to the limit before considering a lift.
Bumpers - These will gain you more capability than a lift, IMO. Approach and Departure can be greatly improved with some armor.
Running boards - ditch OEM if you're going offroad. Add sliders pending your need for a step or protection.

Don't forget to consider skid plates if you're really going to be in rough areas. No lift, but full armor can get you just about anywhere in a 100.
 
Congrats on the car!

My input:

Lockers - see how ATRAC does for you first. For many, it's all they need.
Lift - as above, see how AHC in high does first. The 100, even without the AHC high, is very capable. Less than your JK, perhaps, but better than most other SUVs and good enough for most "jeep trails". Also, you can use 275/70/18 without rub. I'd upsize your tires to the limit before considering a lift.
Bumpers - These will gain you more capability than a lift, IMO. Approach and Departure can be greatly improved with some armor.
Running boards - ditch OEM if you're going offroad. Add sliders pending your need for a step or protection.

Don't forget to consider skid plates if you're really going to be in rough areas. No lift, but full armor can get you just about anywhere in a 100.


Those are all great points. Is AHC considered a weak point or is it pretty reliable? Something about hydraulic suspension seems finicky to me but I'd much prefer to keep it I think.

I think I agree that I'd prefer to get bumpers, sliders and skids before moving up in the air. This is going to be mostly a street truck, after all.
 
Those are all great points. Is AHC considered a weak point or is it pretty reliable? Something about hydraulic suspension seems finicky to me but I'd much prefer to keep it I think.

I think I agree that I'd prefer to get bumpers, sliders and skids before moving up in the air. This is going to be mostly a street truck, after all.
Plenty of people have great experience with ahc on and offroad and then there’s the other half with the truck doing funny things like kicking into low when you put too much weight in the trunk etc. happened to me on numerous occasions on a low mile 07 vehicle with perfectly working ahc. Scared the crap out of me especially when you’re out in the middle of nowhere.
 
...and then there’s the other half with the truck doing funny things like kicking into low when you put too much weight in the trunk etc.

While I don't foresee that happening, I think I'll look into some ways to give the AHC a little hand with that situation. I know you can adjust the neutral pressure by fiddling with the torsion bars in the front. I wonder what would be able to give the AHC a helping hand in the back?
 
So I took the running boards off today, and I'm really pleased with the immediate difference.

20190914_194445.webp


Also, I noticed there's some paint chipping off of the lip of my tailgate. Has anyone identified something that will make this edge a little tougher, since I'm leaning up against it all the time?

20190914_194257.webp
 
So I took the running boards off today, and I'm really pleased with the immediate difference.

View attachment 2083269

Also, I noticed there's some paint chipping off of the lip of my tailgate. Has anyone identified something that will make this edge a little tougher, since I'm leaning up against it all the time?

View attachment 2083270

Edge trim. McMaster Carr has tons of it. Your local auto store probably has some as well. There's also clear child proof edging that could work. Lots of options out there, just need to find something the right size.
 
The new tires are installed and I couldn't be more pleased with the Falkens. We'll see how they hold up. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to mention the TPMS battery issue. Should I use Techstream to figure out which is dead, or just let them replace all of them when I go back?

I also ordered and installed OEM mudflaps and the associated hardware from LexusPartsNow.com ($143.18 + tax/shipping)

While I'm not happy with the shipping cost ($29.22), the speed and quality are on par with what I expected. I'm really pleased with the installed flaps as well.​

20190925_180749.webp
 
Thanks to @suprarx7nut for the suggestion of the edge trim. It worked a charm.

20190927_183558.webp


What do you all think the odds are of this being fixable? I knew it was there when I bought it, but it's not really that big an issue.

20190928_104653.webp


20190928_104650.webp


20190928_104641.webp
 
great looking 07, think I'm going to lose my running boards as well. do you have a part number or source info for the edge trim
 
I began building my drawers today. My poor circular saw skills and my inability to conceptualize kerfs has already led to a couple of issues. Hopefully I'll be able to wrap up the build's initial state in the next week. Photos to come.
 
I began building my drawers today. My poor circular saw skills and my inability to conceptualize kerfs has already led to a couple of issues. Hopefully I'll be able to wrap up the build's initial state in the next week. Photos to come.

Have you considered landsharkoutfitter drawers? Extremely precise fit, clean finish.
 
Have you considered landsharkoutfitter drawers? Extremely precise fit, clean finish.

Yeah I considered it, but $750 shipped is way too much for what's involved, IMO. Especially as a base system intended to be modified to fit your needs.
 
Well I figured that this time not driving to work would be the best time to tackle the mystery of the timing belt job since the truck has no sticker anywhere. I started doing my research again and quickly decided that I wasn't up to handling this myself. I looked up some reputable shops in my area for some quotes, and I settled on Rick & Tim's Foreign Car Service. They suggested that I bring my own parts, and I suspect this is in my interest in terms of saving money, but also in their's because they didn't have to order them. Either way I was fine with this, as I already had all the parts assuming I'd be replacing them myself.

Services performed:
  • Replace timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, etc. - $563.70
  • Replace steering rack, tie rod ends. - $281.85
  • Drill, Tap, and Insert Helicoil for oil pump - $140.93
  • Replace valve cover gaskets, spark plug seals, spark plugs. - $234.88
Parts purchased:
  • Amazon
    • Camshaft seals
      • Fel Pro - $17.40
    • Crank seal kit
      • Fel Pro - $10.79
    • Lower radiator hose
      • Gates - $11.52
    • Outer tie rod ends
      • Moog - $84.56
    • Radiator cap
      • AC Delco - $6.84
    • Serpentine belt
      • Bando - $14.39
    • Spark plugs
      • NGK Iridium - $26.94
    • Steering rack
      • Detroit Axle - $299.99
    • Timing belt kit
      • Aisin - $171.78
    • Thermostat
      • Aisin - $20.20
    • Thermostat seal
      • Stant - $4.20
    • Upper radiator hose
      • Gates - $7.37
    • Valve cover gasket set
      • Automuto - $30.59
  • Rick & Tim's
    • Helicoil Kit - $39.99

I think the labor quotes were a little too generous, so when they found the stripped hole in the oil pump they poured a few coals on to even up a little.
 
Unfortunately, the front wheel bearings have play in them so I can't have the alignment done to wrap up the work done by Rick & Tim's. Since the status of the front hub area is mostly unknown to me, I've ordered two bearing kits and a set of snap rings from @cruiseroutfit. I've repacked bearings before, so I don't think the job will be too eventful.

Parts:
  • Front wheel bearing kit (Timken)
    • Cruiser Teq - $213.44
Tools:
  • 54mm socket wrench
    • TBD
  • Fish scale or spring tension gauge
    • TBD
 

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