Oyaji's FJ60

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Thanks. The info about the water ports is great. The picture you attached confirms my idea of torque order, but the torque value is too high, I think. I read elsewhere it's a three step torque process to 11 ft/lbs and that overtorquing is the major cause of leaks. I'll clarify and post back with what I end up doing.

I appreciate the help!
 
That image is an Edelbrock specific assembly page. Could easily be that the torque spec is off for non-Edelbrock parts.
 
Thanks Thom.

Georg set me up for a conversation with his engine builder, and he set me straight on some things (Thanks Bro!). I'm going to use the plastic framed Felpro gasket that came in the head set with a VERY light coat of sealant around the water jacket areas to fill in the pitting on the iron Vortec heads. For future reference, below is the torque spec for the lower and upper manifolds. I'll tighten both with an X-pattern for the center 4 bolts and work my way out symmetrically from there.

The lower manifold requires a three step torque process measured in in-lbs: 27-106-132

The upper manifold requires a two step torque process measured in in-lbs: 44-88

That pretty much sums it up. I hope to post that I have it running and driving this weekend.
 
Sorry to hear about all your problems but it looks like you have it under control..
That motor looks SWEEET and CLEEAN the way it sould be.
How have you been? have not talked with you in a while?
Suzuki 1250 bandit for a DD, that will work! "he he he-hah hah hah".:grinpimp:
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND YOURS.

RAMZ.:hillbilly:
 
Ma brutha RAMZ...it's good to hear from you! I've thought about you and the misses a few times as I was coming over the hill during my move. You still driving truck? Once I get this thing up and running again, I may have to make the trek up to see you. Thanks for the compliments, and Merry Christmas to you folks, as well!

Jon
 
Very common for the bottom of the intake and lifter valley to be "crappy" on those engines. When I bought my engine intially from teh salvage yard...we decided to pull the intake and it was one black nasty mess...cleaned all that up and engine fired right up. DOn't know if you know...but there is an updgraded spyder setup for the fuel system...engine idles a lot better with it.

I asked my GM shop buddies.. about all the gunk in the lifter valley and on the intake.....they said it was "normal"

I think I used the GM intake manifold gasket set for mine. In regard to the top and lower part of the intake...I just got it tight. Then on the intake bolts themselves I also just got them tight as well, starting in the middle and working outwards. I'm a fan of the "fast tack" crap that is red in color that you paint on the gasket material and metal gasket srufaces...in my view it really helps to seal. Then on the ends we generally use black RTV. The "right stuff" works well too. Personally I don't use the torque wrench execpt for critical areas...head bolts, internal engine components, steering components...but you have to get a feel for what is tight and what's crazy tight or too loose. OF course you would torque your R&P & locker along with anyting related to the axles, 4wd stuff and what I would call critical areas....but thats just the way I do it.

Make sure you have a scan tool that can read the "cam offset" as I recall the name...(basically setting up the distributor properly) when you go back together.
 
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Thanks for the input Elbert. I replaced the spider and documented it earlier in this thread. I've gotten the head and manifold mating surfaces as clean as I think they'll get without the use of machine tools. Should be good to go...Merry Christmas to y'all down there...
 
ok...I went back and read through the thread...

I'm not a big fan of the fuel spyder setup on these 5.7 vortec but's its all we have, excpet for those who run a marine manifold.

When you get time how about contributing to the thread I just setup regarding documenting the wiring for the ALt on a V-8 swap. Its one area that that is a big time killer and aggrivating to figure out. I'm goign to add my setup to the thread too, once I swap over to my other OEM alternator., right now I run a single wire version.
 
I drove the Wag last night! I took it around the block and back into the garage only to find puddles of coolant forming under the driver's side. I crawled underneath and, to my horror, saw coolant seeping out of the ARP head studs. Apparently, I failed at thread sealing the damn things. After doing a little reading, I'm going to try a different thread sealer by pulling one stud at a time, adding sealer and re-torquing. Hopefully, I don't bone the head gaskets...

On the fuel front, I added a 100 micron filter between the tank and pump, and the pump immediately sounds better. I still need to get a 10 micron filter to put between the pump and engine, but I think this quality filter setup will help with my issues. I guess I'll see...
 
Jon, I bought the AN to o-ring bumped tube adapter fittings so that I can use the std GM EFI filter. The same p/n is spec'd for a huge range of applications (both my '92 Z-28 donor and my old'91 TBI Suburban use the same filter p/n), so finding a replacement should be simple and inexpensive.
 
It felt GREAT to hear it run again, and run it did! It ran perfectly...to see the coolant leak damn near broke my heart, but I was relieved to see that it is a somewhat common problem with ARP head studs that go through to the water jacket. I think I may have used the right sealant, just not enough of it. I used this one:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

but think I may try this one next:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Performance_Thread_Sealant.htm

I read that I should apply the stuff LIBERALLY both to the female and male threaded surfaces. Last time I followed the directions on the package that said to add the sealant to 3/4 of a circle at the second thread of the bolt. Do you have a different recommendation? I'm all ears...

Thom, my fuel pump has a bumped output fitting on it already so I'll just put a filter in-line after the pump. I think I'm going to stick with the Aeromotive stuff as they make an easily replaced filter element for their housings. In fact, I think they have a 10 micron s/s mesh screen that I can clean and reuse. Thanks for the tip, though, as I haven't quite made my mind up.
 
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Links are the same item. SBC's are well known for head bolt coolant leaks. The head bolt holes go thru the deck into the coolant jacket. Never understood why they did that. Slather the whole length of the threads in sealant. A little between the washer and the nut and the washer and the head isn't a bad idea.

Several years ago I had cause to change the fuel filter in the Sub in the Circus-Circus parking structure in Reno. It wasn't the cause of the problem (bad coil wire but we just threw everything at it rather than diagnosing it's random miss ~500 miles from home). I was amazed at how much heavier the old filter was compared to the new one. I've since seen that exact thing happen on other GM vehicles. The old filter weighed significantly more than the new one, but the vehicle was still running fine.

I like the Aeromotive stuff (note the pre-pump strainer in my fuel system), but I can't get replacement filter elements for them from just any parts store.
 
Ok, fixed the link. Thanks for the heads up. I just went to NAPA and ended up buying a BIG tube of the high temp stuff and will "goop that crap on" as Georg recommended. I can't really put it on the washer and nut as I'm supposed to use the ARP lube on those so I get a good consistent torque on the nuts.

I like the idea of a locally available filter, but with a re-usable filter element that may not be necessary. I'll look at your thread again to see what you did. The off-the-shelf part is definitely less expensive, but I've got so much in this thing now, what's another c-note? :) Thanks again for the input.
 
I used an Aeromotive filter assembly to make a pre-pump strainer since the 60's tank doesn't have a "sock" on the end of the pick-up tube. What it does have around the end of the tube should be fine, but I wanted to make sure. It was left over from my old work's dyno facility, so I used it. We had them on the fuel supplies for two different, concurrent projects. I liked them so much that when one of those projects' fuel system pressure went to a 500psi (max) I had a much thicker walled clone of their housing made so that we could keep using their filter elements. When it came to the 60's fuel system I wanted something that I could change out quickly rather than having to plug the fuel system or install a valve. I suppose with two Aeromotive elements you could do it semi-quickly.
 
Well, I got everything buttoned up for the second time today. I took the time to do some other things that I should've done the first time around, as well. I chased all the exhaust manifold bolt holes (after I boogered the threads in one of them when attempting to put the driver's side manifold on and ensured all bolts had anti-seize and all plug boots had dielectric grease on them. I was going to start it up but thought better of it and decided to let the goop on the head studs fully cure before taking any chances. Tomorrow...

After all the talk about the PITA fuel filter service, I ordered one of these today. It was $$$ but should make all the difference when it comes to changing/cleaning fuel filters. I'll run it with the 100 micron s/s mesh screen. I purchased a 10 micron element to put in the other housing and will place it after the fuel pump. This will also act as a fuel shut off for when I leave the truck parked and don't want it to walk off too far.

12331.jpg


Speaking of theft deterrents, I installed the quick release thing-a-ma-jig that Benjamin put in his rig under my Grant steering wheel. That thing is TRICK, and I expect it will keep any would-be-thieves from taking off in my rig.

Finally, I've mounted an Autometer tach in place of the old one. I opted to trim the bezel to put the whole Autometer case in the dash rather than take it apart and put the guts in like some others have done. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a 2-5/8" one to match my Ultra-lite gauges at night, but at least the one I got is silver, like the rest of them, during the day.
 
The WAG is back! I've let it run for an extended period of time, cycle through a couple of warm up/cool down periods, and I have NO leaks! It runs and drives great! Can't stop grinning...

When I was letting it warm up earlier, the random dying reared its ugly head again. I started checking wiring to the spark chain items and found that one of the wires going to the coil was intermittently losing contact. I verified that this was the issue by reproducing the problem numerous times by messing with the wire. I pulled the weatherpak connector apart and tightened up the terminal, put it back together, and it runs with no issue. To be safe, I'm going to replace the terminals. I think the whole batch of terminals in my harness may be crap as this is the THIRD one I've found to lose contact.

Anyway, I'm happy for now. Adding the 10 micron filter and wiring up the tach tonight.
 
OyajiJon said:
The WAG is back! I've let it run for an extended period of time, cycle through a couple of warm up/cool down periods, and I have NO leaks! It runs and drives great! Can't stop grinning...

When I was letting it warm up earlier, the random dying reared its ugly head again. I started checking wiring to the spark chain items and found that one of the wires going to the coil was intermittently losing contact. I verified that this was the issue by reproducing the problem numerous times by messing with the wire. I pulled the weatherpak connector apart and tightened up the terminal, put it back together, and it runs with no issue. To be safe, I'm going to replace the terminals. I think the whole batch of terminals in my harness may be crap as this is the THIRD one I've found to lose contact.

Anyway, I'm happy for now. Adding the 10 micron filter and wiring up the tach tonight.
Click to expand...

Good to hear it worked out. Solving problems is half the fun in my opinion. That is of course unless your in the middle of nowhere. :hhmm:
 
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