Those look good, man!
I may have to inquire with you further! Strong work!
I may have to inquire with you further! Strong work!
ARCHIVE Owl Expedition Step Sliders
- Thread starter Ramathorn15
- Start date
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One of the main issues of step sliders is the slipperiness. OEM running boards comes with a grip clipped on to the running board. Remember there was couple of bolts, but not sure. Great if that can be reused in the step. These looking good. Need more pictures though, I'm in the market for step sliders
I use 3M grip tape on my Slee Sliders. I recommend that for any slider. Had it on my 99 for 5+ years and it held up very well. I think I use 1" thick strips. Available on Amazon and I don't recall it being very expensive.
I like the look. Solid step with no gaps for tiny feet to slip through.
Cool design and look.
I'm guessing at that price you'd have a few bucks left over to have your favorite local fab rat put on a kick-out for you. I'd put grip tape on top for little ones to climb in without slipping. Spray paint finish for me, thanks. Lots of colors and lots of finishes these days; plus easy color change and touch-up.
I'm guessing at that price you'd have a few bucks left over to have your favorite local fab rat put on a kick-out for you. I'd put grip tape on top for little ones to climb in without slipping. Spray paint finish for me, thanks. Lots of colors and lots of finishes these days; plus easy color change and touch-up.
- Thread starter
- #26
As @suprarx7nut mentioned, grip tape is a good solution for all sliders. I typically just buy a "deck" sheet from a local skate shop and slap it on. Nice thing with these is there's way more flat surface to put grip tape on vs round tube.
- Thread starter
- #27
The feedback here has me thinking. The 2x6 offers about the same step as the MT minus the rear kickout. Neither are a great step in my opinion. The way I designed the jigs, I could easily throw a 2x8 to get 2" of extra step. Maybe I'll offer both options. The 2x8 would be about 15lbs heavier per side.
Assuming they're strong enough not to bend, I'm in favor of a larger step than most current sliders offer. My sliders get used as a step about 20 times per week between me, my wife and kiddo and used as rock protection for the car about 5 times per year. Making the step a better step would have me considering your sliders if I didn't already have my Slee Slider Steps.
But again, it's gotta be strong enough for you to jack up the entire side of the vehicle from the edge of the slider. If it flexes, that extra width isn't worth it.
Since this has evolved into a 'what could these be' rather than 'here they are':
- Is there a 'pick up' discount? If so I may be convinced to drag a load of them to AZ for a group of us if some folks will chip in on diesel.
- When I see the angle of the LX body molding behind the front wheel, I want more protection there. I had planned on adding material there to try and follow that curve or at least go right up underneath it.
- From there perhaps an option for a fender-flush integrated 'mini mud flap'?
- I'd love to see a provision for lights. I'd planned on welding a bracket to the inboard vertical portion of the 'step' and salvaging whatever I could from the OEM steps to make this plug and play.
- I planned on spray painting and then adding grip tape. The stuff below has worked very well in my enclosed trailer.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
My take: If you want kickouts to protect against a low percent of trail hazards then buy one of the many other existing products. This has the potential to be something different: A robust step/slider solution with a simple look and straight profile. It’s ok to sacrifice a bit of function for a pleasing and unique form.
I’m mostly hurdling fallen trees and holding my breath that I don’t crush my running boards.
I’m mostly hurdling fallen trees and holding my breath that I don’t crush my running boards.
BigBlueTLC
Instagram: 200Heritage
Vote for: No kick out but bigger step!
- Thread starter
- #35
That's the key. Based on some testing I've done so far, these are far stronger than a two post slider with ubolts. I was actually able to force others into the pinch weld with just a jack. With the mounting system I put in place, they do flex, but not nearly as bad. I'll have to test with an 8" wide rectangle since it does provide more leverage. The true limiting factor is the ability to only do 2 legs per side because of the AHC. I did come up with a possible way to do 3, but it would be too complex to maintain a budget friendly slider. That's part of my goal here after all.
- Thread starter
- #36
There would absolutely be a pick up discount. The original plan was to make $500 sliders for the 100 series (what they would hopefully cost if picked up). I want to stick to that price point, so doing too many modifications only adds to the price. I do plan to incorporate light mounts as that's been my baby for a handful of years now. The mud flap thing is probably a non starter since I plan to continue mud flap group buys. I'll mull it over though. Thanks for the feedback!
I have had Slee sliders since 2008 and have replaced the grip tape once. Like the idea of different width option.
Know at least one spot where the only way through is to slide and pivot on slider around a 30 inch diameter Ponderosa pine.
Also that wider slider will make a great air tank, drilled my Slee's to use both of the tube pieces for mine.
Really like the design, will have to see if its enough to swap out the Slees.
Know at least one spot where the only way through is to slide and pivot on slider around a 30 inch diameter Ponderosa pine.
Also that wider slider will make a great air tank, drilled my Slee's to use both of the tube pieces for mine.
Really like the design, will have to see if its enough to swap out the Slees.
Thoughts on weld it yourself kits for us knuckle draggers?
- Thread starter
- #39
I probably wouldn't do that since it's pretty tough to get these lined up properly without a jig. On other trucks, the frame is positioned so that you can just come straight out with the outriggers then weld on the tubes at 90° relative to the frame. With the 100, you have to come down and compensate for the inward slope of the frame at the front. It's quite the challenge to get right and even on both sides.
I could offer the bolt on mounting plates though. Then people would just need to source their own tubing and cut it to size.
I like the way these look! And I like being able to slap some grip tape on them and spray paint them.
