Output Shaft Bearing Replacement

[OwnerCS]

Here's some information on my output shaft bearing project.

I decided to replace the output shaft bearing and seal as part of a larger project to upgrade the differential to a 4-pinion Harrop eLocker with new Nitro gear bearings. Almost everything in the front differential is being replaced with this project.

This part is the reason for replacing the output shaft bearing and seal.

While the original output bearings felt reasonably ok at 235,000 miles, I could feel a considerable difference with the new bearings. The shaft now feels as smooth as glass while turning in the bearing. I think it may feel like a new truck when I'm finished.

Parts

90311-47013 Axle Seal
90363-43001 Outer Bearing

Start by taking a good picture of the outer seal.

Use the picture as a reference to determine depth for where the seal should be positioned on the lip during installation.

I used my well worn seal puller to remove the old seal. The wide lip on the seal and shaft tube made it require a few rough pulls to remove the seal.
It still works. Though a professional seal puller would have been easier.

Once the seal has been removed, you can see the bearing and two c-clips that hold the bearing in the shaft tube.

My trusty angle needle nose pliers worked well to remove the outer c-clip.

Continued on the next page.

 

[OwnerCS]

After removing the outer c-clip, then proceed to remove the inner c-clip.

Knurled end clip separator pliers made short work of removing the inner c-clip.

After removing the inner c-clip, I was able to remove the shaft and bearing from the differential tube by giving the shaft a couple of taps with a plastic coated dead blow hammer.

After removing the shaft, I removed the bearing from the shaft by placing the end on a block of wood and tapping around the outer edge of the old bearing. Luckily, the old bearing popped off without me needing to use a press or special tools. The original bearing is a Koyo. Actually the bearing was in good shape for 235,000 miles. I just want to replace every bearing and seal as part of the front diff Harrop and Nitrogear upgrade project.

New bearing and seal ready for installation.

Continued on the next page.

 

[OwnerCS]

I coated the output shaft and bearing mating surface with a synthetic polymer high temperature waterproof grease before installing the bearing. This grease is extremely sticky and will not wash off your hands or clothes with normal detergent.

The new bearing was installed with the Koyo part number lettering facing inward. The original bearing has the letters facing inward, so right or wrong it went back together like I took it apart.

To install the bearing on the output shaft, I really wanted to use a common tool that can be easily or cheaply acquired. I had already borrowed a 4x4 ball joint press kit from Advance Auto for other parts of the suspension refresh project. I found a receiver cup that is the exact size to mate up on the inner part of the bearing. I was able to tap the bearing into place using a plastic coated dead blow hammer and the receiver cup. I took my time and did not get too aggressive with the hammer. It just takes patience and some light taps to push the bearing up on the shaft.

After pushing the bearing up the shaft to the stop point, there will be plenty of clearance for installing the inner c-clip.

I used the the PROTO knurled end c-clip pliers in the picture to mount the clip on the shaft.

After the bearing has been pushed up the shaft as far as it will go, this is how it looked.

Continued on the next page.

 

[OwnerCS]

The bearing and shaft should fit tight inside the tube, but it did not take force to push it in deep enough for the outer c-clip to fit in the mounting groove.

The outer c-clip after installation with the curved end pointed tip pliers.

For pressing in the shaft seal, I found a pipe coupling that was an exact fit. The seal lip fits nice and tight inside the coupling inner diameter so it will stay put during installation. I didn't need to buy an expensive seal press for this job.

Here's a picture of the seal after I pressed it in the shaft. I put a thin film of synthetic grease around the outer edge to keep from pinching the seal surface during installation. You can use a straight edge to lay over the tube to gauge the seal depth during installation.

Continued on the next page.

 

[OwnerCS]

Since I had an extra (non-OEM) seal that I didn't use, I decided to put it on my new CV axle and snap a picture. Doing this I learned there is a small amount of +/- clearance room for the seal to ride on the CV axle shaft and still properly mate with the seal. The only time I've experienced a problem with a CV axle seal leak is when the differential or transmission has been overfilled with oil. Lower the vehicle to a level position before filling the differential with lube.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

just want to replace every bearing and seal as part of the front diff Harrop and Nitrogear upgrade project.

The suspense of having to wait until the end of 2nd post to find out why you’re doing this

 

[OwnerCS]

The suspense of having to wait until the end of 2nd post to find out why you’re doing this ☠

Just to start off with all new bearings and seals to go along with this baby.

 

[OwnerCS]

Ok. I'm done. Pictures updated. @JunkCrzr89

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Here's a picture of the seal after I pressed it in the shaft.

View attachment 2291237

Continued on the next page.

[ATTACH type="full
alt="1588295912018.png"]2291239[/ATTACH]

Ok. I'm done. Pictures updated. @JunkCrzr89

this seal is installed too deep. you can tell by the exposed clean metal on the mating surface right in front of where it's installed now. the rim of the seal should be flush with that inner rim. i use a drift when installing and be sure to drive it until the drift hits the surface around it. Thats my stop. yours is installed about 1/8th inch to 1/4 inch too deep. it might still seal but it might leak. there's a broad surface for it to ride.

 

[OwnerCS]

View attachment 2291298
this seal is installed too deep. you can tell by the exposed clean metal on the mating surface right in front of where it's installed now. the rim of the seal should be flush with that inner rim. i use a drift when installing and be sure to drive it until the drift hits the surface around it. Thats my stop. yours is installed about 1/8th inch to 1/4 inch too deep. it might still seal but it might leak. there's a broad surface for it to ride.

Thanks. I have another seal that came with the Nitrogear kit that I can install. There is a good 1/4 of an inch of variance between too close and too far where the seal rides on the CV shaft.

 

[OwnerCS]

On the 2nd time around for the seal installation, I just used my fingers to press in the new seal. The new seal matches up with the rust marks like the old seal.

I would like to edit the original post thread but the edit buttons disappeared.

 

[nissanh]

I had to waste a good OEm seal because I too drove the seal bit too in as your first attempt. Second round I had it just like your's second attempt.

 

[maasa2002]

Thanks for the great post.
Questions
1. Can I remove that axle arm without dropping the whole front diff?
2. Can remove the bearing you replaced while the inborad axle on the car?

Thanks

 

[OwnerCS]

Thanks for the great post.
Questions
1. Can I remove that axle arm without dropping the whole front diff?
2. Can remove the bearing you replaced while the inborad axle on the car?

Thanks

I don't remember a reason the axle tube can't be removed while leaving the 3rd member installed in the truck. I took the approach because I already had the 3rd member out for the Harrop installation.

Bearing removal (without removing the tube) may require some type of a special puller if you do not have a way to push it out from the back side.

 

[OwnerCS]

Note this IFS shaft seal installation tool came along after this job. It would have made seal installation a lot easier.

New IFS Output Shaft Seal Tool - Absolute Wits End

I just ordered one of the new IFS Output Shaft Seal drivers from Absolute Wits End. While it may be a long time before I need it, I like to keep specialty tools like this around for a future project...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[maasa2002]

Thanks again.
Great post. I appreciate your reply.
I think I should try first to remove the tube, if couldn't, I would do it all over.

 

[maasa2002]

Thanks again.

 

[Indiana80]

Here's some information on my output shaft bearing project.

I decided to replace the output shaft bearing and seal as part of a larger project to upgrade the differential to a 4-pinion Harrop eLocker with new Nitro gear bearings. Almost everything in the front differential is being replaced with this project.

This part is the reason for replacing the output shaft bearing and seal.

View attachment 2291272

While the original output bearings felt reasonably ok at 235,000 miles, I could feel a considerable difference with the new bearings. The shaft now feels as smooth as glass while turning in the bearing. I think it may feel like a new truck when I'm finished.

Parts

90311-47013 Axle Seal
90363-43001 Outer Bearing

Start by taking a good picture of the outer seal.

Use the picture as a reference to determine depth for where the seal should be positioned on the lip during installation.

View attachment 2290257

I used my well worn seal puller to remove the old seal. The wide lip on the seal and shaft tube made it require a few rough pulls to remove the seal.
It still works. Though a professional seal puller would have been easier.

View attachment 2290258

Once the seal has been removed, you can see the bearing and two c-clips that hold the bearing in the shaft tube.

View attachment 2290259

My trusty angle needle nose pliers worked well to remove the outer c-clip.

View attachment 2290262

Continued on the next page.

I’ve owned an ‘05 LX470 since last December. Have replace most of the front end components. I’ve been trying to eliminate a wah wah wah noise that a master tech has diagnosed at A/T tire noise + an occasional singular metallic pop when there is a slight flex in the suspension. Truck has an OME 2” lift and Slee diff drop. The only looseness I can find is in the front drive shafts- especially the driver side. Where the drive shaft goes into diff extension tube, I have the normal in and out play, but there is also up and down slight slop that sounds similar to the occasional pop noise I hear. Is the slight up / down play normal where drive shaft enters diff tube? If not, is the likely suspect the bearing just inside the diff tube that supports the inner shaft? Driveshafts are OEM and were replaced less than 40K miles ago. Thanks for any advice.

 

[OwnerCS]

I’ve owned an ‘05 LX470 since last December. Have replace most of the front end components. I’ve been trying to eliminate a wah wah wah noise that a master tech has diagnosed at A/T tire noise + an occasional singular metallic pop when there is a slight flex in the suspension. Truck has an OME 2” lift and Slee diff drop. The only looseness I can find is in the front drive shafts- especially the driver side. Where the drive shaft goes into diff extension tube, I have the normal in and out play, but there is also up and down slight slop that sounds similar to the occasional pop noise I hear. Is the slight up / down play normal where drive shaft enters diff tube? If not, is the likely suspect the bearing just inside the diff tube that supports the inner shaft? Driveshafts are OEM and were replaced less than 40K miles ago. Thanks for any advice.

I remember the output shaft bearing having a precision fit. Sure there is enough slack to allow the bearings to move. For a truck with over 200,000 miles, I thought it was in remarkably good shape. However, I did replace the bearings posted earlier in this thread.

 

[Indiana80]

I remember the output shaft bearing having a precision fit. Sure there is enough slack to allow the bearings to move. For a truck with over 200,000 miles, I thought it was in remarkably good shape. However, I did replace the bearings posted earlier in this thread.

View attachment 3736764

View attachment 3736771

You are one of the few I’ve seen on the forum that’s replaced this bearing. I’ve been told it’s a maintenance item to repack it. I’m sure mine has never been touched at 218,000 miles. Do you know what the symptoms are when these bearings wear out?