Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt!

[mongoose2231]

I am not aware of any competant Toyota shops in the NY metro area. Send a message to the Gotham City guys and they will point you in the right direction.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/ny-gotham-city-land-cruisers.38/

Thank you, I was thinking of doing that. I do 90% of my cruiser repairs but the clutch was a no no due to lack of equipment. I will see if I can find someone to look into my issue. Thanks again for your help

 

[mongoose2231]

Quick update. Today in the morning I went under the truck to try and adjust the clutch slave. It turns out that there is no adjustment. It's just a straight shaft. I took the slave off and the fork was not under any load or pressure if I may say. In other words, it seemed as though the slave wasn't what was preventing the clutch from engaging really late in the pedal stroke. I am baffled as to what causes my clutch to engage so late. Anyone have a clue? As mentioned earlier, the flywheel barely had a step in it but after doing research, it looks as though it doesn't really matter. So what cause my clutch to engage so late?

 

[mongoose2231]

On another note, I started replacing my shocks, all 4 corners. Got me some blisteins hd. My shocks were shot. So are my sway links. Replacing those as well.

 

[mongoose2231]

Shocks done. Drives beautifully. Mandatory pics!

 

[mongoose2231]

Ok fellow cruiser nuts, I ran into one more problem as I make progress on making my new 60 100% mechanically. So I so far have installed a new clutch, new shocks, fixed my broken mirror on the pass side, replaced IP diaphragm and I now have run into another small problem. The truck has a lot of electrical hacks (solar power inverter, newsish stereo, hacked AC for manual override, etc.) Most of these items have been disconnected from the batteries as it was draining them when sitting for long periods. Now the truck runs out of juice if sitting parked for more than a few good hours. Where should I start looking first? As mentioned, stereo and all other crap are disconnected from the battery source. Any insight? I am printing the electrical diagrams to see if i can start combing through the wiring. Could there be a short somewhere?

 

[gregnash]

First thing first, check the batteries to ensure that they are properly holding a charge and not having issues themselves. Then I would probably start with the alternator to ensure that it is actually charging the batteries (if they are good) along with the voltage regulator.

 

[mongoose2231]

First thing first, check the batteries to ensure that they are properly holding a charge and not having issues themselves. Then I would probably start with the alternator to ensure that it is actually charging the batteries (if they are good) along with the voltage regulator.

Thanks Greg for the advice. Everything is ok with batteries and alternator. The po mentioned the juice loss when parked for longer time. Took it apart today, trying to fix the mess by reverting to original. It's a mess in here and the dash metal piece has a piece cut out. Need to scour the web for a good used one.

 

[Slow Left]

@Skniper was having a similar issue with 'parasitic draw'. Here is the thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-battery-draw-diagnosis-normal-or-not.811681/#post-9274503

I'm not sure if he identified the component/factor that was leading to his battery drain when left sitting for a longer period of time.

There are 3 basis tests for testing whether a component is functioning correctly

1) A resistance/continuity measurement (measures resistance in Ohms) - for example a wire between the battery and the next component in line (say, a switch). The wire acts like a resistor. To test if the wire is grounding (making a short by a hole in the insulation so that the metal wire touches ground) you would disconnect the wire from the battery source, connect one lead from the multimeter to the end of the wire that was disconnected from the battery and the other lead to where the wire connects to the switch (or whatever component comes first in line) BEFORE the switch. Measure resistance/continuity. If it reads ~tens of Ohms, wire is not grounding and is working fine. If it reads infinity, wire is grounding and you have a short.

2) A voltage measurement. To test, for example, that the switch is working correctly. Reconnect the wire that powers that switch to the batter. Connect your red (+) lead on the multi-meter on the other side (not battery side) of the switch. Connect the black (-) lead of the multimeter to ground. With the switch off (open), you should see 0V reading. With switch on (closed), you should see 12V+ reading. If there is a voltage with the switch off (open), the switch is leaking.

3) Current measurement - To test the amount of current (Amperes) running through that circuit. Connect your multimeter in line (so disconnect a wire that leads to a component and connect the red (+) lead to the wire and the black (-) lead to the contact on the component from which you just removed the wire and measure Amps).

If it were a single component/system, the test would be straight forward...but since there are many components/systems, you will need a methodical approach to weed out correctly functioning components/systems and identify the trouble makers.

Just do a quick Google search for "finding a short" or "car battery drain" or "parasitic battery drain".

I saw one Wiki that, with the car off, remove the negative lead to your battery.
Engine off.
Install your multimeter in series between the negative battery terminal and the recently removed negative battery cable.
Measure Amps.
If you see a reading of more than 25 milliAmps, then go to the fuse box and remove each fuse, one at a time.
After you remove a fuse, go back and see if the reading on your multimeter goes down to 0 or remains the same.
If it goes to zero, then you have identified the circuit where there is a drain.
If it stays, the same, go back and replace that fuse and move onto the next one.
Go through all fuses until you have identified the fuse(s) that correspond to the system that is causing the drain.
Then you can work through that circuit...

Problem is, if someone has modified the original wiring harness, then when you get down to the circuit level trouble shooting, you're just gonna have to figure it out...it's definitely doable and the OEM wiring diagram will tell you how it is supposed to work...as a reference...

 

[mongoose2231]

I have the oem wiring diagram printed. There are a lot of add-ons in the harness. Stereo, amp, Sirius, inverter, and another item of some sorts. I will try to revert and bring harness back to original. Hopefully that solves the problem. Thank u for all the methodical advice. I will do exactly what u said in order to find the issue.

 

[Slow Left]

I have the oem wiring diagram printed. There are a lot of add-ons in the harness. Stereo, amp, Sirius, inverter, and another item of some sorts. I will try to revert and bring harness back to original. Hopefully that solves the problem. Thank u for all the methodical advice. I will do exactly what u said in order to find the issue.

Yeah, read up on any tutorials or YouTube videos on chasing done a 'parasitic leak', but that approach of hooking up the Ammeter inline with the negative terminal on the battery, and checking how many milliamps it reads and then pulling each fuse one by one to rule out all the good circuits will at least help you identify the problem circuits for closer examination...

 

[FJ60Cam]

Quick update. Today in the morning I went under the truck to try and adjust the clutch slave. It turns out that there is no adjustment. It's just a straight shaft. I took the slave off and the fork was not under any load or pressure if I may say. In other words, it seemed as though the slave wasn't what was preventing the clutch from engaging really late in the pedal stroke. I am baffled as to what causes my clutch to engage so late. Anyone have a clue? As mentioned earlier, the flywheel barely had a step in it but after doing research, it looks as though it doesn't really matter. So what cause my clutch to engage so late?

The clutch is adjusted at the pedal on the later 60's.

If you have more than just a little bit of slack in the pedal, this could be your answer.

 

[mongoose2231]

Yeah, read up on any tutorials or YouTube videos on chasing done a 'parasitic leak', but that approach of hooking up the Ammeter inline with the negative terminal on the battery, and checking how many milliamps it reads and then pulling each fuse one by one to rule out all the good circuits will at least help you identify the problem circuits for closer examination...

Yes I will try that approach.

 

[mongoose2231]

The clutch is adjusted at the pedal on the later 60's.

If you have more than just a little bit of slack in the pedal, this could be your answer.

I raised the pedal past the recommended measurement to attain that bit of slack needed for the clutch to fully engage. The master adjustment is bottomed out. I am sure I have the wrong master on there though. Still waiting on someone to post a pic of their master under the dash to see it. I posted in the diesel section asking for a photo of a stock hj60 master to confirm my findings.

 

[mongoose2231]

The clutch pedal is/ was stiff till the very last 1/4" of travel. I needed to raise the pedal to ensure that the slave fully releases

 

[Slow Left]

Hang on now...diesel? I missed that.

do the components run on 12V or 24V?

 

[mongoose2231]

Hang on now...diesel? I missed that.

do the components run on 12V or 24V?

Everything is 24 v. It's a 24v truck. The stereo and all the components that were installed are 12 v components, hence the inverter device(step down transformer) if I may. It's a mess but I will try to fix it as best I can

 

[mongoose2231]

here are some more pics of the mess under there. I just discovered that there is also a viper alarm installed as well. what a mess!!! Also, the air duct has been cut to make room for the stereo connections. I must find one of those as well.

 

[Slow Left]

Yeah, looks like the PO wasn't an electrician...

...it'll be interesting to see if that fuse trick will show any parasitic systems.

The job is doable, it's just that you've got to make sure you are comfortable (along with a methodical approach) when working on it. I always kind of feel that working under the dash requires part contortionist/part magician level credentials. Better start getting in some yoga sessions...

I wonder if there are either new/used 2H wiring harnesses available out there and if they are cheap enough, you might be able to rationalize that approach in cost of new harness versus time spent...just another idea for an option.

But really, undoing or fixing what the PO has done should be doable. If it is the OEM wire harness in there, then all the wires are color coded.

 

[mongoose2231]

I am comfortable with trying to do the fix. I am actually going to take the whole dash apart. The truck also runs 100% so it's just the wiring issue. It's important to mention that the po said he disconnected everything that was added from the power source to resolve the issue. It was fine, never drained the battery until last weekend. It then started to do that. I was going to tackle all the wiring anyhow, so having the issue resurface even with all the add-ons disconnected from the batteries only pushes me to tackle the problem sooner. I remember my old '77 fj40. I took a bucket of wires out of that thing before I was done with it. It's all about having patience and taking it easy. I am also looking into the option of getting a harness as a replacement, if figuring things out takes too long.

 

[Slow Left]

It was fine, never drained the battery until last weekend. It then started to do that.

Hmmm...that kinda sounds like a bare wire grounding itself...in short, a short....

But I think your 'long term' thinking approach is the right one here, given the amount of uncertainty attributed to the PO's work. So attacking it just to find a single exposed wire grounding is probably not the best approach...but rather, how you are approaching it sounds like the correct approach to me...or at least, given the information, that's how I would approach it too...especially if I was lucky enough to have a DIESEL 60 like you!!!!!!!!!!!