lt1fire
SILVER Star
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- #41
Believe it or not, that's not that weird of an engine mount arrangement. The bolts on the block that he used to create that front mount are designed either for a front mount, albeit shaped differently than that custom job, or for individual side mounts.
Don't use a cherry picker to hold the engine up, would be in your way working on the front of the engine. Use a bottle jack with a block of wood on the oil pan to hold the engine up. The oil pan is more than strong enough for it.
Replace the lift pump (assuming stock mechanical diaphragm) when you replace the fuel filter. The lift pump can go out while going down the road. This won't usually cause your engine to stop running, as your injection pump can draw fuel from the tank on it's own, but the added strain will destroy the injection pump. Cheap and easy insurance.
Bypass filter is good. I used to run one, but stopped when I forgot to order one for my last few oil changesI think I have a spare vertical oil filter head if you want/need it.
Other timing cover notes:
- Plan on a timing cover gasket and front main while it's apart.
- Make sure to get the depthing/installation tool for the front main, as well as the installation sleeve, that's used when installing the cover. Both come with the seal when ordering from cummins in my experience, but make sure.
- Check on the IP nose seal. This requires removal of the IP gear. Easy to do after rotating the engine to line up the timing marks (take a picture for reference), just watch out for the woodruff key that may or may not be there. IP nose seals can work their way out over time and fill the crank case with diesel. No bueno, easy to check and replace if needed with the timing gear off, without removing the injection pump.
- Peening over the bore where the KDP is works just as well as putting in a KDP retainer tab thing, and is free.
EDIT: Wow, that's a lot of words. Sorry!
Never be sorry for words of wisdom my dude. Always good to get first hand experience on this motor as I have very little and most of what I do have is mostly from the 6bt work truck I drove for a few years and did the maint my self on it due to how slow and backed up our fleet servicer always was.
Yeah I think I read somewhere that he based the engine mount design on one he had seen on a 4bt being run as a generator or something like that.
Let me know what you want for the verticle head I may switch over if I can't find a bypass one that fits.
Electric lift pump has replaced the mechanical one so no worries there.
I have the timing gasket and crank seal in my watched items on amazon but will check price at cummins store to see if cheaper before I order. Good info on the tool and sleeve i'll make sure those are included. I'll check the IP seal also when doing it. Just changed the oil and didn't have any excess fluid or strange smell so hopefully it is good. I'll need to reseal the pump anyway at some point it does have some leakage going on by some of the lines.
Ha! I read up on the free KDP fix right after I ordered the tab at the start of the month.
New updated list for things to do not including those mentioned in this post are.
New motor mounts and frame mounts for the side. (Did some searching yesterday and found that LoCoFoMoCo Racing is located about 2 miles from my house) He makes all kind of things for the classic bronco and has a 4bt swapped into his with compound turbos
Hydroboost (same company also makes a mount kit for it since it needs to be angled to clear the motor)
1 ton front a rear out of super duty diesel. This is actually a simple bolt on job with custom arms from another company
Nv4500
HMVV bead locks
Full family cage with soft top
rear seat
tail gate to hold storage in
cold air intake for the 4bt
fluid dampr
The brakes will be done first followed by the mounts/dampr followed by POR-15 on the frame and then everything else will come very slowly, budget depending.
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