I've never tried any of these 'high-mileage' oils before, but I'm considering it with my next oil change. Rig has 186k miles (new to me - first oil change) and I was either going to change over to sythetic or try the Castrol GTX high-mileage stuff. Any positive feedback on high-mileage oils?
Opinions on 'high-mileage' oils... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJsixty2
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Fourrunner
SILVER Star
I have started using the Valvoline Max Life high mileage oil in my rig at about the same mileage as yours. I also switched from 10W-30 to 20W-50 in the last oil change. Saw a huge difference in oil pressure for the positive and could be a placebo, but seems like it runs better and stronger. I have always had good success with the Max Life though (used it in other vehicles with low oil pressure). Not really sure what your goal is. These engines are pretty forgiving though. You could put whatever is on the shelf in it.
- Thread starter
- #3
thanks fourrunner. my main goal - longevity. these high-mileage oils are supposed to have protective qualities (seals, etc.) and i was just curious if they were worth it - over, say, a synthetic. thanks for the info.
Acording to everyone I have talked to, the High Milage oils are supposed to have extra detergents in the oil for oil seals and other parts of the motor. When I got my truck it leaked oil and once i switched to the Valvoline High Milage oil the leak has almost stopped. I am going to keep using it. As far as the synthetics, I was always told that if you want to run synthetic you need to do so from the start. switching to it later on would not relly help you.
David
David
Cruzerman said:
i know dude, my 1989 62 has 237,67X miles on it, it runs just fine with reg old oil!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
How about a real "high mileage oil" instead of marketing hype high mileage oil. I would suggest Chevron Delo 15w-40 available anywhere in gallons, and some places in quarts. It's formulated to go the distance in a diesel truck and meets all the specs needed for your gasoline or diesel powered Land Cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #9
186k is high mileage by any standard - toyota, BMW, benz... i'm hoping for many more good miles from the stock mill, but i'm also looking at ways to extend that and wondering about the potential benefits of these high mileage oils. i've switched several 100+k mileage cars over to synthetic with no problems, mostly BMWs, (BMW's inline 6 is as bulletproof as toyota's I6) and never had any problem with oil consumption. agreed, it is better from the 2nd change on, if possible. i currently have a '90 BMW 325iX with 222+k miles and it runs great. thanks guys.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Synthetic does make the engine run better but I can't justify the added expense of the synthetic oil in the engine (I use it in the tranny/transfer and axles). I was of the understanding that the "high mileage oils" were simply a thicker oil to help the engine since it's worn more, ie: 20w-50 as opposed to 10w-30. I've used Shell Rotella 15w-40 since I got the truck and whenever I can get the oil. Otherwise I use the best 15w-40 diesel oil I can find within reason.
I also run the Chevron Delo 15W-40 diesel oil in my 207,000 mile '87. Seemed to help the dribbles, but I will be replacing my front main seal and oilpan gasket in the spring.
Check the search, lots of guys swear by the Delo or Rotella diesel oils or the synthetics. Synthetic is however, out of my price range.
Other beauty of the diesel oil is that its is available in 1 gal. containers. 2 jugs to fill it, leaving you with 2 empty jugs for the waste oil.
Hodag
Check the search, lots of guys swear by the Delo or Rotella diesel oils or the synthetics. Synthetic is however, out of my price range.
Other beauty of the diesel oil is that its is available in 1 gal. containers. 2 jugs to fill it, leaving you with 2 empty jugs for the waste oil.
Hodag
I am a great beleiver in synthetic oils, tho' I have used the Delo that Andrew reccommends in some vehicles. I switched my FJ60 to Mobil 1 at 150K miles. That's all I use in any of my vehicles now - for reasons that made me an absolute beilever.
I believe that I get better mileage, and a lot less wear. If you have leaks, they can be fixed easily. If your compression is good, and you keep to a sensible maintenance schedule, keep it tuned and love it, a 2F should easily go over 300K miles before you need a rebuild.
Good oil is cheap insurance.
M
I believe that I get better mileage, and a lot less wear. If you have leaks, they can be fixed easily. If your compression is good, and you keep to a sensible maintenance schedule, keep it tuned and love it, a 2F should easily go over 300K miles before you need a rebuild.
Good oil is cheap insurance.
M
FJsixty2 said:
I second the BMW statement. My '87 635 has 217,xxx and counting and it has zero oil consumption. I love it!
Same with my '87 60 with 93,xxx. The thing is that it's sitting in my driveway.
Odometer turned to 310K today on the way to work. And that's a low reading with the 33's and stock gearing. I figure the thing is just getting broke in. Always used 10-30 Castrol.
_____________________
Cruzerman
'85 FJ60
'78 FJ40
_____________________
Cruzerman
'85 FJ60
'78 FJ40
- Thread starter
- #16
I wonder what kind of mileage we might see on these motors if they were running synthetic from the very first oil change. A good motor (design) is a good motor, but synthetics the entire life would certainly be a benefit. My hesitation with the high-mileage oils is that they are only thicker (with some detergents) and wouldn't actually be the 'better' option. The compression on these motors seems to hold extremely well, so a synthetic shouldn't cause any problems. Thanks for the info on Delo and Rotella, as well.
Humbug. Whatever's cheap at schucks when i go in. I think a good filter is more important. I use the K&N or a factory one.
It's a 4.2L making 135BHP and it never sees over 3500 rpm. I figure if it is designed to run in Africa with no maintainence and 80 octane gas, it will do fine here with 5000 mile intervals.
My S2000 makes 240BHP out of 2.0L and sees 9000rpm daily, it gets fresh synthetic every 3000 miles, whether it likes it or not
It's a 4.2L making 135BHP and it never sees over 3500 rpm. I figure if it is designed to run in Africa with no maintainence and 80 octane gas, it will do fine here with 5000 mile intervals.
My S2000 makes 240BHP out of 2.0L and sees 9000rpm daily, it gets fresh synthetic every 3000 miles, whether it likes it or not
cruiser_guy said:
Amen, brother !!!
You do like I do.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Cheers,
Cahil
When I bought my FJ60 4 years ago the oil looked very old. I put in 20W-50 valvoline. However haven't used the high milage, not sure what teh difference is? I feel the heavier oil made a huge difference. Engine is quiter, and smoother. Pressure did move up a little. I changed once a year and using K&N filer. Oil still looks new when I change now! Garage kept and only drive it about 4k a year.
Synthetic Oil
Advantages of Synthetic
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970's. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn't advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make it to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as "synthetics provide 'Peace of Mind,' or 'Cheap Insurance,'" or other such nonsense.
Extended Change Intervals
Most manufacturers of synthetic oil advise users to not exceed the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. Part of this is self interest (they don't want to be liable for any damage) but the real reason is that synthetic oil, while it does have certain advantages, still becomes contaminated.
Be extremely wary of synthetic oil companies that offer to pay for your repairs if it is determined that their oil and their extended change interval recommendation caused the problem. Think for a moment of the incredible hassle you would have to go through to prove responsibility for an engine problem. Who would pay your legal bills? Who would pay for replacement transportation during the battle? The more bizarre the warranty the poorer the product is a good rule of thumb.
API Certification, Phosphorus & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.
Amsoil
Amsoil actually makes some very good products. The negative image of Amsoil is due to their distribution method (MLM) and their marketing approach. If Amsoil products were competitively priced with Mobil 1 and other synthetics, and if I could buy them in a store, I would not hesitate to use their XL-7500 synthetic as opposed to Mobil 1. What upsets me about Amsoil is that they didn't disclose until recently (and then it was by accident) the real reason that their oils (except for XL-7500) are not API certified. In the past they came up with all sorts of bizarre excuses about the reason for their lack of API certification and this greatly contributed to the distrust that people have of the company.
Advantages of Synthetic
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970's. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn't advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make it to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as "synthetics provide 'Peace of Mind,' or 'Cheap Insurance,'" or other such nonsense.
Extended Change Intervals
Most manufacturers of synthetic oil advise users to not exceed the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. Part of this is self interest (they don't want to be liable for any damage) but the real reason is that synthetic oil, while it does have certain advantages, still becomes contaminated.
Be extremely wary of synthetic oil companies that offer to pay for your repairs if it is determined that their oil and their extended change interval recommendation caused the problem. Think for a moment of the incredible hassle you would have to go through to prove responsibility for an engine problem. Who would pay your legal bills? Who would pay for replacement transportation during the battle? The more bizarre the warranty the poorer the product is a good rule of thumb.
API Certification, Phosphorus & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.
Amsoil
Amsoil actually makes some very good products. The negative image of Amsoil is due to their distribution method (MLM) and their marketing approach. If Amsoil products were competitively priced with Mobil 1 and other synthetics, and if I could buy them in a store, I would not hesitate to use their XL-7500 synthetic as opposed to Mobil 1. What upsets me about Amsoil is that they didn't disclose until recently (and then it was by accident) the real reason that their oils (except for XL-7500) are not API certified. In the past they came up with all sorts of bizarre excuses about the reason for their lack of API certification and this greatly contributed to the distrust that people have of the company.
