Hey, that one has the original factory que ball FWD pull button!
Opinions 1965 fj40
- Thread starter speedemon55
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Spin the motor by hand first when the tranny is in neutral. If it doesn't turn you have issues. Crank it with a fully charged battery and do a compression test.. If you've got 150 psi per cylinder then that is a good sign. It looks like it has some rust issues but if you do the body work and paint you should stay within your budget. Something to keep in mind is that even if the mechanicals are good every seal and rubber part needs to be replaced, including the brakes.. Cables (choke, throttle and e-brake) rust up and break sometimes. Every other bolt may snap off when you pull things apart.. Depending on how far you want to go with this it isn't just a 2 or 3 month project unless you can tackle it full time. Some of the parts are rare or non-existent and you will have to improvise or track stuff down. For 10k in our current economy you might be better off buying someone else's fixed up cruiser!
- Thread starter
- #23
I hear ya on that one. I don't necessarily have 10k in my pocket right now LOL, as this will be a long, slow project. I wouldn't call myself an expert at paint and body but I've done my share of metal working in the past, including some patch panel work, and feel confident in my skills. As for paint my dad has the whole setup for that at his shop so I can probably farm that out to him for a couple cases of 
or even a couple of my mexican friends have some amazing rattlecan work on the cheap.
or even a couple of my mexican friends have some amazing rattlecan work on the cheap.
- Thread starter
- #24
Is this a good or bad thing? Does that mean its never been replaced or is it a replaceable filter element type?
- Thread starter
- #25
That is a good point as it may have got only 5-10% highway miles. This truck was only used on the farm and drove into town for maintenance. But I guess well see if it was maintained once we discuss the fuel filter a little more
Decent truck, decent miles= buy it.
I think I am in the general consensus.... I think it is a little overpriced. I have been watching that truck on craigslist for way over 6 months now and probably closer to a year. He has probably been offered $1500 for it many times. He states in his ad that he knows it is worth more as parts but will not part it out.
It can't hurt to try but my guess is you can't buy that truck for $1500.
As for the condition, that thing is like a museum piece. If you have the skills like coolerman and can take apart the original pieces and make them work again, then this would be a great project. If you are going to have to buy new OEM or aftermarket parts so that you can bolt them on, then you ought to wait on a newer truck in better shape.
Just my .02.
Copenhagen1
It can't hurt to try but my guess is you can't buy that truck for $1500.
As for the condition, that thing is like a museum piece. If you have the skills like coolerman and can take apart the original pieces and make them work again, then this would be a great project. If you are going to have to buy new OEM or aftermarket parts so that you can bolt them on, then you ought to wait on a newer truck in better shape.
Just my .02.
Copenhagen1
$10k is a gross underestimate. I can't imagine trying to find parts for that vintage. I am sure one call to cdan with your list, and he will keep saying discontinued, discontinued.....
my stock 65(with bad motor and a few missing bits) would be for sale for less than that......if anyone is looking I wouldnt mind sending it to a new home, makes me sad to see it sit and I WILL NEVER do anything with it.....I know that!
a little greener now, surface rust, dented fender/hood, small rot starting on PS rocker, paint will shine like new....or at least the doors did when I tried to use them on my 45
a little greener now, surface rust, dented fender/hood, small rot starting on PS rocker, paint will shine like new....or at least the doors did when I tried to use them on my 45
not that im that far into the market, but im curious to see that price.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,474
- Messages
- 37,019
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
What's it worth to you with a dead motor?
An F135 with 33k probably hasn't blown up the original fiber cam gear....yet.
Best
Mark A.
An F135 with 33k probably hasn't blown up the original fiber cam gear....yet.
Best
Mark A.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2006
- Threads
- 134
- Messages
- 671
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Website
- www.mattison-consulting.com
If I was working on one of these for fun and not because I wanted a really early model... I would go for a later model. They seem to have more parts available and better setups on things.
Try around 75... That is what I would be if I had to start over.
Try around 75... That is what I would be if I had to start over.
It's kinda hard to ask people on their opinions, as each has his own thoughts.
In your shoes, I'd offer $2000 if you are serious...we already assume $1500 is too low. Then, just do a little at a time, and enjoy the process. If you are too much in a hurry, then $10 000 is not reasonable, but, if you are willing to enjoy the hunt for parts, and do most of the work yourself, then I bet you will end up with a nice looking, running, pretty stock 1965 FJ40FST for less
In your shoes, I'd offer $2000 if you are serious...we already assume $1500 is too low. Then, just do a little at a time, and enjoy the process. If you are too much in a hurry, then $10 000 is not reasonable, but, if you are willing to enjoy the hunt for parts, and do most of the work yourself, then I bet you will end up with a nice looking, running, pretty stock 1965 FJ40FST for less
That's a decent 40. It depends on if you want an early or late style rig. It needs work but often many rigs do. IMHO 1500-2000 is fair. Usually most either keep the early rigs stock or they become crawlers. There isn't much to part out on them with ball and claw axles, 3 speed tranny etc. I would buy it clean it up, paint it. get an ehsan top and use it here and there.
resto vs quick fix up
if it is capable of a quick fix up then I say go for it and drive it around the back roads or trails. That blue one is a definite player in the category of drive now restore later or sell and it looks pretty complete
if you are going to try and make it a resto you will probably go down the well traveled path of 2f or SBC and 4 speed, lift, tires, disc brakes, power steering, frame off, paint and POR 15 or suitable sub, steering wheel mod, seats, paki top etc
sure some things you can save on but others you cant by the time you put on a lift and tires you have another 2k at least into it. Add another 1k for the soft top ---oops, you have 5k into it already!
for 4 or 5 K you can get a decent driveable rig. For 10K a pretty reasonable off roader and for 15K you can take your pick
if you like the old ones and want it-- go for it, or if you just have to do the resto yourself then go for it but dont delude yourself that you can restore it and have a "cheap" cruiser
Funny how the pain and the drain have somehow made my 71 dearer to me though!
I have however learned a lot about hastily formed cost estimates
I dont regret it but I have about 10k and a years work into my project now
if it is capable of a quick fix up then I say go for it and drive it around the back roads or trails. That blue one is a definite player in the category of drive now restore later or sell and it looks pretty complete
if you are going to try and make it a resto you will probably go down the well traveled path of 2f or SBC and 4 speed, lift, tires, disc brakes, power steering, frame off, paint and POR 15 or suitable sub, steering wheel mod, seats, paki top etc
sure some things you can save on but others you cant by the time you put on a lift and tires you have another 2k at least into it. Add another 1k for the soft top ---oops, you have 5k into it already!
for 4 or 5 K you can get a decent driveable rig. For 10K a pretty reasonable off roader and for 15K you can take your pick
if you like the old ones and want it-- go for it, or if you just have to do the resto yourself then go for it but dont delude yourself that you can restore it and have a "cheap" cruiser
Funny how the pain and the drain have somehow made my 71 dearer to me though!
I have however learned a lot about hastily formed cost estimates
I dont regret it but I have about 10k and a years work into my project now
Hate to nit pick, but your outline is NOT a resto. It is a very good plan for a rebuild, but not a resto. A restoration is bringing back this truck to the way it was when it got off the boat...restoration, and rebuild are two very different things.
pet peeve hijack over
bsmith123, as well as others have a good point...if it's an old cruiser that you want, well that is one thing, but if you are just looking for any cruiser, then get a much newer model and save yourself lots of headaches.
Really? A fiber cam gear, as in the one that meshes with the gear off of the crank? I have only seen metal..
resto vs rebuild
"Hate to nit pick, but your outline is NOT a resto"
true, true,
now I can see what a rebuild costs pretty much--- I wonder how much more a resto would be? Crazy money at least for a cruiser IMHO but I have drooled over my share too!
"Hate to nit pick, but your outline is NOT a resto"
true, true,
now I can see what a rebuild costs pretty much--- I wonder how much more a resto would be? Crazy money at least for a cruiser IMHO but I have drooled over my share too!
