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Shout out to @Cirbo. Days from moving and with a half-packed shop, he nonetheless helped Luke this weekend tackle a roll bar project on his speedster. We never would have figured it out. Stay tuned for future race updates.

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Shout out to @Cirbo. Days from moving and with a half-packed shop, he nonetheless helped Luke this weekend tackle a roll bar project on his speedster. We never would have figured it out. Stay tuned for future race updates.
Out of curiosity - why tape the line from the rollbar to the steering wheel? Planning on a separate bar at that height there?
 
Pour one out my brothers and sisters. Another good friend of ours is driving land cruisers in the sky.

Tim Boyd was a good friend of mine, and of the club. Unfortunately he passed away yesterday after a long battle. He will be remembered.

Please, join me in pouring one out for Tim. May he rest in peace.

His truck Shasta will live on through his wife Jen.

Damn another good one gone while us jokers are still around. Only met Tim a handful before we moved and most of our talk actually centered around beer. I helped him track down a few he was looking for. Funny enough we talked more through the untapd app than we did on here. I'll have to open up something old and rare in his honor tonight. Glad to hear his wife will continue in the cruiser tradition.
 
@Cirbo , man… if I knew you were so bored I would have loved to build some sliders and other armor for my sequoia.
 
I connected with Speed House in Durham when they came out to the relic run this year. I just had them do a major overhaul on the front knuckles on my FJ62 and I can't say enough good things about Steven and the crew there. I had the knuckles done and they failed within two years, turns out they were pitted and they did an epoxy and sand down to restore the mating surface to they wouldn't leak again. My Toyota dealer replaced tie-rod ends had already failed after 2-years and they replaced them with some nice 555 ones. They even did a full day of undercarriage cleaning.

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I did not know my truck was supposed to have a confidence inspiring front end, it's like a new truck and I can't believe it. Highly recommend them for any vintage Cruiser work. They're the most knowledgeable and detail oriented shop I've come across.




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I connected with Speed House in Durham when they came out to the relic run this year. I just had them do a major overhaul on the front knuckles on my FJ62 and I can't say enough good things about Steven and the crew there. I had the knuckles done and they failed within two years, turns out they were pitted and they did an epoxy and sand down to restore the mating surface to they wouldn't leak again. My Toyota dealer replaced tie-rod ends had already failed after 2-years and they replaced them with some nice 555 ones. They even did a full day of undercarriage cleaning.

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I did not know my truck was supposed to have a confidence inspiring front end, it's like a new truck and I can't believe it. Highly recommend them for any vintage Cruiser work. They're the most knowledgeable and detail oriented shop I've come across.




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I’d hit those TRE with some paint so they don’t rust.
 
Like a can of clear coat?
Flavor of your choice.
Believe Johnny prefers hot pink 😂
I went black.

Look like they used antisieze which will help but those are great joints…. Just known to rust quick without a protective coat. Will help preserve ease of future adjustments. And of course aesthetics.
 
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Like a can of clear coat?
What Jason's getting at is those TRE's aren't coated from the factory so they are unprotected. Best practice is to paint them the color of your choice so they don't rust.

FWIW, I tried clearcoating mine and they didn't hold up. Just paint them.
 
I’ve used some rustoleum enamel spray paint with good results on the undercarriage sensitive parts.
 
I’ve used some rustoleum enamel spray paint with good results on the undercarriage sensitive parts.
Their Rusty Metal Primer "Red Lead" without the lead is great stuff. I have gouged sliders and bumpers primed with that stuff and the gouge will rust but nothing past the edge of the primer, for years.

When I lived up north and in the Keys a lot of ornamental iron guys used Rustoleum Industrial on everything they did.
 
Their Rusty Metal Primer "Red Lead" without the lead is great stuff. I have gouged sliders and bumpers primed with that stuff and the gouge will rust but nothing past the edge of the primer, for years.

When I lived up north and in the Keys a lot of ornamental iron guys used Rustoleum Industrial on everything they did.
I’m going to have to check this out. I’m just using a simple enamel type right now. It has a pic of a chevelle on the front iirc.
 
Hit this in the Tundra this morning
Going to celebrate by changing the oil for the first time.... lol JK. But oil is due, as are brakes and going to drain and fill the trans pan while replacing the gasket that started leaking a bit.

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Hit this in the Tundra this morning
Going to celebrate by changing the oil for the first time.... lol JK. But oil is due, as are brakes and going to drain and fill the trans pan while replacing the gasket that started leaking a bit.

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Be sure to give it something Real nice….like supertech conventional.

If still original transmission, how often are you doing transmission fluid exchanges? Just doing drain and fills?
 
Representing ONSC out in Montana.
One week of volunteer work helping out the forest service.
That post pounder is one heavy sucker, well over 100 pounds. Plus the generator and the 25 foot hydraulic lines. Hauled it all around the forest. Put in over 200 posts to create over 30 man made beaver dams.
It was grueling work but when you need something done. They knew who to call.
Haha
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Be sure to give it something Real nice….like supertech conventional.

If still original transmission, how often are you doing transmission fluid exchanges? Just doing drain and fills?
I personally haven't changed it. I've only had the truck for a little over a year but I did put 29k on it since then. Strange since my office commute is a flight of stairs to the third floor. 🤔
I do have pretty detailed maintenance records though and I know it was done at least once or twice, I'd have to go back and look. I have 13 qts of the yota stuff in the garage and am going to start doing it every 3rd or 4th oil 15-20k change from here out. I did replace all.the coolant and axle and tcase fluids in January before KOH.
Other than a water pump, around 200k, and the knick sensors i dud along with the aur injection bypass everything is original.
Starting to need rear wheel bearings.
 

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