What is Clarkson up to now?!?!?
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- Thread starter NCFJ
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I’m in the same boat. I need more motor but can’t really see my self in anything but my 80. I have been quietly researching and for the reasons you listed will be doing an ls swap in the future. A real LS not the truck motor.
As soon as me and Brit figure out where well be in the future, buy a house, and I can set up a real shop I’ll be doing the swap.
Looks like 2019.
In Mexico and Brazil, the F-350 we received last decade was still in production as of 2015, with a Cummins 2.8-litre diesel. With the right gearing, it may just have that something more to push an 80 around.
"Ford Motor Company offers the ISF2.8 Cummins in its South American fullsize chassis cab pickup line. In these applications, the engine produces 147 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque. In the Ford Brazil F-350, the Cummins powered pickup comes with a payload rating of nearly 4,700 lbs; quite a haul for an engine that only displaces 169 cubic inches."
The 4x4 F4000 runs a 4.88 axle ratio and a 6.13:1 first gear. The 80 in low range may be comparable. 2nd gear in the F-4000 is 2.83:1 which is more comparable to the 80's 2.804:1 first gear ratio. First gear in the F-4000 is just granny low, so unless towing, you prob start off in 2nd gear anyways.
F-4000 4x4
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This. It doesn't take as much power to move a truck around as people think and the F350 is certainly heavier than an 80.
FYI, the 4BT in Moonshine has 105hp stock. There should be plenty of aftermarket mods available once the R2.8 has been around for a bit.
The same could be said for early model UPS trucks powered with 4BT's .... a total slug but enough torque to get it down the road. I suppose my hangup would be that if I was going to go through all the $$$ and labor of doing a motor swap I would really like for the replacement to have a little more "umph" than the engine I took out.
Should be fairly easy to get more umph out of the 2.8 Cummins. Just look at what the 2.8 dmax makes stock and what some of the modded ones are doing.
NCFJ
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I am in the same camp. The argument there is that the motor can be pumped up to be a monster. The give away there is reliability and an advanced maintenance cycle. We all know that once you start moving away from stock intending to build more power the cost is generally shorter overall life span and the hood being raised more often. With any engine platform.
That said, I am sure that the Cummins 2.8 has the capacity to be bumped up in power, but at what cost? As @Rice stated, swaps require a fair amount of money and time investment. If a solid DD and sometimes off road vehicle is what you are after, starting with a marginal powered replacement with the intent of bumping it up does not make much sense to me. In a primarily off road rig like Johnny's truck it makes more sense. I still think that 2.8 is perfect for the 40, at least from the evidence out there so far.
I keep thinking some one would buy a 2005 MB e320 cdi for 6.5k and transplant that turbo engine into a 40/60/80 series. 200 hp and 369 ft lbs of torque without mods.
It's not a new concept to increase the power output, even double it, and retain reliability. People have been doing it with SBCs since forever, now more so with LS engines, and now with forced induction being commonplace, it's extremely easy to do. Want more power for a highway trip, for a hillclimb or to show off? Put the full-on insane power tune on. Want to dial it back and keep it reliable? Put the mild tune on. Could not be easier.
For fun:
Moonshine is empty of an engine and transmission and I give you $9K to spend on an engine and $X to spend on a transmission/transfer case . . .
Would you pay the $9K for the R2.8, or buy something else like a 4BT or a LS?
Johnny has prolly considered that or researched it. I know he had the OM617 that I lusted over for a while for the '85 4runner
Would it be harder than a 4BT with all the electronics, or easier? Can you just buy a chip?
I don't think there are any out there yet because all the guys in the re-power program are forbidden by cummins to modify them for the time being.
that said, bigger turbo, tuner, injectors...... normal ways on diesels to get mo powa
that said, bigger turbo, tuner, injectors...... normal ways on diesels to get mo powa
Johnny has prolly considered that or researched it. I know he had the OM617 that I lusted over for a while for the '85 4runner
An OM648 is like the newest IPad vs the om617 which would be like an apple II. Lol
They can make good power with a Myna pump.... I really wish I still had my om603 in the 300sdl I had.
That is a solid question. I'd go with a diesel for sure, the question is which one
I would like a computer controlled Cummins in Moonshine to have more control over my tunes. I love that I can flash a tune onto my ford depending on the situation (towing vs street driving). I'm scared to put the full-on power tune on my Ford because I don't want to get a taste of what this engine can make
Cummins has made plenty of variants of the 4BT that are computer controlled, the ISB3.9, QSB3.9, and QSB4.5 as examples. If I had 9k to spend on an engine setup and $X to spend on a transmission, I'd go with a QSB4.5, ZF-6 transmission and atlas 4-speed transfer case. Plenty of gearing for offroad, plenty of OD gearing for the highway, and a computer controlled 4BT with 25% more displacement than what I have now.
That said, I may be biased, because I have a QSB4.5 sitting in my garage that will eventually become moonshine's next engine
If you get an engine kit like the R2.8, then all you'd have to do is wait for a while till the big diesel tuner shops come out with tunes for the R2.8. Once they do, buy their tuner and tunes, then plug into the OBD2 port and flash the tune onto the ECU. Takes maybe 5 minutes total time to flash a tune. Same with the Duramax engines, Powerstroke engines and Cummins engines in the dodge trucks.
It goes without saying that an engine has to be tuned in a safe way. Turbo diesels need intercoolers and need their EGTs in check. Gas engines need a safe AFR and applies more so when forced induction comes into play. Too much fuel in a diesel will make it run hot, and could melt it down. Just the opposite in a gas engine, too little fuel in a gasser will make it run hot, and could melt it down. Ring gaps need to be opened up if adding a lot of forced induction to a NA engine, etc. Lots of little things add up to a tuned rocket ship of an engine that maintains it's reliability.
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That is a solid question. I'd go with a diesel for sure, the question is which one
I would like a computer controlled Cummins in Moonshine to have more control over my tunes. I love that I can flash a tune onto my ford depending on the situation (towing vs street driving). I'm scared to put the full-on power tune on my Ford because I don't want to get a taste of what this engine can make
Cummins has made plenty of variants of the 4BT that are computer controlled, the ISB3.9, QSB3.9, and QSB4.5 as examples. If I had 9k to spend on an engine setup and $X to spend on a transmission, I'd go with a QSB4.5, ZF-6 transmission and atlas 4-speed transfer case. Plenty of gearing for offroad, plenty of OD gearing for the highway, and a computer controlled 4BT with 25% more displacement than what I have now.
That said, I may be biased, because I have a QSB4.5 sitting in my garage that will eventually become moonshine's next engine
If you get an engine kit like the R2.8, then all you'd have to do is wait for a while till the big diesel tuner shops come out with tunes for the R2.8. Once they do, buy their tuner and tunes, then plug into the OBD2 port and flash the tune onto the ECU. Takes maybe 5 minutes total time to flash a tune. Same with the Duramax engines, Powerstroke engines and Cummins engines in the dodge trucks.
It goes without saying that an engine has to be tuned in a safe way. Turbo diesels need intercoolers and need their EGTs in check. Gas engines need a safe AFR and applies more so when forced induction comes into play. Too much fuel in a diesel will make it run hot, and could melt it down. Just the opposite in a gas engine, too little fuel in a gasser will make it run hot, and could melt it down. Ring gaps need to be opened up if adding a lot of forced induction to a NA engine, etc. Lots of little things add up to a tuned rocket ship of an engine that maintains it's reliability.
Damn son, which version of the QSB did you get? That's pretty awesome right there.
Has anyone made a tuner or a way to tune that ECU yet?
The QSB4.5. I know what software I need to get in and read the ECU to change parameters on my own, when the time comes. I don't think there are tunes available, but I can make my own
The QSB4.5. I know what software I need to get in and read the ECU to change parameters on my own, when the time comes. I don't think there are tunes available, but I can make my own
Awesome on the tunes.
I meant which version of the QSB 4.5. I may be wrong but I believe there are 4 different versions for that engine from Cummins with the best making 520 ft/lbs.
There are dozens of iterations, not four, of each engine cummins puts out. The major revisions have a model designation, 6AT, 6BT, 4BT, ISB5.9, ISB3.9, QSB4.5, QSB5.9, etc. Each major revision, called the "Engine Model", then has an associated CPL "Critical Parts List" that defines the specific assembly parameters. There are dozens of CPLs per engine model.
To directly answer your question though, this is a 110hp model, CPL 8401:
To directly answer your question though, this is a 110hp model, CPL 8401:
