Only changing out front shocks and springs to support winch (1 Viewer)

[thomasedwa]

Hi!

I have an '93 80 series with an ARB Deluxe bull bar everything else is stock. I need a winch not so much for recovery right now but for pulling brush and pulling roots out of the ground. Could I change out just the front shocks with these FOX shocks: 1989-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks Front fits 1-2.5" Lift Kits | eBay and these OME Springs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARB-2850-Old-Man-Emu-Front-Coil-Spring-Fits-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-105-80-Series/142490704978?epid=1224353430&hash=item212d1b9c52%3Ag%3ANpQAAOSwgbVantaN&_sacat=0&_nkw=land+cruiser+80+springs+2850&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0 and a caster kit. Is it ok to only change the out front shocks and springs due to truck being very front heavy?

 

[Heckraiser]

I would change out the front and rear springs together. The stock springs are very soft compared to ANY aftermarket spring and having twice the spring rate in the front compared to the back is going to result in some very odd (if not unsafe) handling.

Also, the link you posted is for the OME 850 spring, which is a 2" lift spring. This would look really dumb with stock rear springs. OME also makes a stock-height replacement spring (better springs than stock, but only about 1" lift) that might be more up your alley. Read the compiled 80 series suspension thread at the top of the 80's page.

And my best suggestion: consult with a MUD supporting vendor rather than buyer stuff off ebay. @cruiseroutfit @reevesci @sleeoffroad , etc. These are guys you can actually talk to on the phone and receive experienced advice and suggestions and good customer service.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Please read these instructions carefully:

DO NOT USE THE WINCH TO PULL SHRUBS AND PUT THE TRUCK IN REVERSE AT THE SAME TIME! NEVER PULL IN REVERSE. EVER. UNLESS ABSOLUTELY LIFE OR DEATH. FOR REAL.

You have been warned. We shall all laugh at you and mock you incessantly if you don’t listen and blow up your front diff.

I repeat DO NOT PULL IN REVERSE. NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU THINK YOU NEED THAT LITTLE EXTRA OOMPH.

Ok. Proceed to shocks and springs. I buy Tough Dog from @reevesci. Like @Heckraiser said. Buy from someone that supports us. Get actual knowledge and expertise.

 

[greentruck]

I upgraded the tired stock coils with the OME 861/862 coils after adding an ARB, winch and AUX battery. Originally went with the stock OEM Tokico shocks. Not enough dampening with them up front, so switched the front shocks out to OME Nitro Sports. Works great.

 

[Bigdrewbowski]

Replace all 4. 100%. With your LC being a '93 the stock shocks are almost definitely shot.
About the winch...NO. Bad things will happen. If you insist on using a winch to pull out shrubs, please film it.

 

[BILT4ME]

You can use a winch to pull shrubs.

Just don't back up with the truck while pulling.
Engage the CDL, place the t-case in low range, set the parking brake, and place the truck in park. Leave the engine running to power the winch.

Also, ALL winches state on them to not use the winch cable to "pull" with except with just the winch itself......in other words, don;t back-up pull and use the winch cable to pull.

On these trucks, you WILL shell your front R&P if you pull in reverse. I would even be concerned in deep mud trying to back up at heavy throttle.

 

[-Spike-]

Engage the CDL, place the t-case in low range, set the parking brake, and place the truck in park.

If I'm winching something serious I don't put the stress on the drivetrain. Foot on the brake, trans is usually in neutral so I can release the load quickly if necessary, or in Drive if I'm pulling myself.

A winch add maybe 70 pounds? Not enough by itself to warrant a suspension change IMO.

 

[BILT4ME]

If I'm winching something serious I don't put the stress on the drivetrain. Foot on the brake, trans is usually in neutral so I can release the load quickly if necessary, or in Drive if I'm pulling myself.

A winch add maybe 70 pounds? Not enough by itself to warrant a suspension change IMO.

The only down-side to that is making sure the winch cable is wrapping correctly. I have had the cable pile up and bind, causing other issues, because winching cannot always be nice and straight.

I have used my truck in this manner to winch down a tree. I pulled the tree to the point it started dragging my truck across the yard. Then I climbed up a ladder and cut part of the tree to release pressure and guide it down. Then I went down, winched it tight again, lather , rinse, repeat until the tree is on the ground.

 

[-Spike-]

The only down-side to that is making sure the winch cable is wrapping correctly. I have had the cable pile up and bind, causing other issues, because winching cannot always be nice and straight.

I have used my truck in this manner to winch down a tree. I pulled the tree to the point it started dragging my truck across the yard. Then I climbed up a ladder and cut part of the tree to release pressure and guide it down. Then I went down, winched it tight again, lather , rinse, repeat until the tree is on the ground.

That's what spotters are for, on the trail. Otherwise I get out and check occasionally. Either way I winch, slack, spool out, wind, winch again. If you're winching something light enough that you can guide the winch cable, you're probably not stressing anything. If you're trying to guide the cable on a hard pull, you're a statistic waiting to happen.

 

[nukegoat]

If I'm winching something serious I don't put the stress on the drivetrain. Foot on the brake, trans is usually in neutral so I can release the load quickly if necessary, or in Drive if I'm pulling myself.

A winch add maybe 70 pounds? Not enough by itself to warrant a suspension change IMO.

Correct on all counts. Just putting the trans in park wont save your front diff, brakes are needed

Unless old ghetto dana 60 front axle then YOLO

 

[BILT4ME]

Correct on all counts. Just putting the trans in park wont save your front diff, brakes are needed

Unless old ghetto dana 60 front axle then YOLO

I'm going to talk myself through understanding this:
As I look at the forces, I agree, now, that having the truck in park and pulling it with a winch against a semi-stationary object, equals similar direction of forces as if the truck was in reverse.

Having the CDL locked will allow driveline braking through the transfer case and since the parking brake is set as well, there will be rear parking brakes and the parking pawl in the transmission to hold the driveline from moving.

In this case, the ring will be pushing the pinion to transfer the forces rather than the pinion trying to force the ring as if driving in reverse.
Since the rear parking brake is set the rear wheels will not move, but the front axle can rotate up until the point where all driveline slack is taken up.

Then, the only remaining force is the friction between the tires and the ground, depending on surface.

The key difference is that the torque being applied from the wheels through the ring to the pinion on the front axle would have to be significantly less than if the engine was running and using engine torque to drive the pinion on the ring.

How do those forces compare? I'm not an Engineer, but I am very mechanical. I do things by myself a lot and I want to know and understand where the limits are. I am not in an area that is remote and go do stupid stuff, but if I HAD to do it entirely by myself and had to be outside the truck, I want to know how to set it properly.

Ideally, install a brake line-lock to set the brakes while doing a stationary pull.

 

[hootie]

If you want to pull up shrubs, think about pulling them up, not sideways. You can use a log or whatever standing on end and leaning a little to fulcrum the shrubs 'up' out of the ground. There are videos on youtube.

 

[LS1FJ40]

If you want to pull up shrubs, think about pulling them up, not sideways. You can use a log or whatever standing on end and leaning a little to fulcrum the shrubs 'up' out of the ground. There are videos on youtube.

Or a farm jack... there are some good videos on YouTube of those as well!

 

[nukegoat]

I'm going to talk myself through understanding this:
As I look at the forces, I agree, now, that having the truck in park and pulling it with a winch against a semi-stationary object, equals similar direction of forces as if the truck was in reverse.

Having the CDL locked will allow driveline braking through the transfer case and since the parking brake is set as well, there will be rear parking brakes and the parking pawl in the transmission to hold the driveline from moving.

In this case, the ring will be pushing the pinion to transfer the forces rather than the pinion trying to force the ring as if driving in reverse.
Since the rear parking brake is set the rear wheels will not move, but the front axle can rotate up until the point where all driveline slack is taken up.

Then, the only remaining force is the friction between the tires and the ground, depending on surface.

The key difference is that the torque being applied from the wheels through the ring to the pinion on the front axle would have to be significantly less than if the engine was running and using engine torque to drive the pinion on the ring.

How do those forces compare? I'm not an Engineer, but I am very mechanical. I do things by myself a lot and I want to know and understand where the limits are. I am not in an area that is remote and go do stupid stuff, but if I HAD to do it entirely by myself and had to be outside the truck, I want to know how to set it properly.

Ideally, install a brake line-lock to set the brakes while doing a stationary pull.

Im not sure about your train of thought but you are reacting as much load as is required to unearth a shrub against your ring and pinion gear mesh. Backing up or just dragging while in park are essentially the same