Ongoing FJ80 Restoration Challenges (2 Viewers)

[andersonoverland]

Ok guys, yet another challenge today.

Took her out to get some miles on her after a major overhaul. At about 10 miles, I started getting temp increases out of nowhere and my front brakes were dragging so bad, they were smoking pretty good. Pulled over to let it cool down and let the engine cool back down and it seemed like they loosened up and the engine cooled back down. Just limped her back at slow speeds. I just changed the booster and MC, and bled the brakes with good production of fluid. I bled them really good, but the pedal seems really stiff. I bench bled the MC, and adjusted the booster throw with gauge at install. I’m thinking the engine heated up from the extra load from the from brakes dragging so much. I’m not sure if maybe my calipers were stuck, but it was both sides only the fronts. Any ideas on what might cause that?

 

[Tank5]

I had this problem with the breaks on a tundra. After I replaced the steering column. There is adjustment for position the pedal with the switch. I adjusted the pressure on the pedal and it solved the issue. It was set such that the pedal was pressing the brakes, so they were constantly dragging.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Ok guys, yet another challenge today.

Took her out to get some miles on her after a major overhaul. At about 10 miles, I started getting temp increases out of nowhere and my front brakes were dragging so bad, they were smoking pretty good. Pulled over to let it cool down and let the engine cool back down and it seemed like they loosened up and the engine cooled back down. Just limped her back at slow speeds. I just changed the booster and MC, and bled the brakes with good production of fluid. I bled them really good, but the pedal seems really stiff. I bench bled the MC, and adjusted the booster throw with gauge at install. I’m thinking the engine heated up from the extra load from the from brakes dragging so much. I’m not sure if maybe my calipers were stuck, but it was both sides only the fronts. Any ideas on what might cause that?

Your brakes might have to do with the increased temp but your booster is out of spec. Is it a factory booster? I had the same issue after I went with an aftermarket booster. When right back to the shop and when they loosened up the master the brakes released. I would adjust the push rod on the booster again, it is not back out completely and not allowing the brakes to release properly.

When you did the major overhaul did you bleed the cooling system of any possible air in the system? I would lift the front of the vehicle and run it. Lifting it will allow air bubbles to leave the system.

 

[andersonoverland]

I adjusted the booster rod all the way in as far as it would go. It was barely touching the gauge. But I’m wondering if its pushing in on the MC just barely enough to activate the brakes.

I did bleed the entire cooling system, but I will do it again forsure! I didn’t lift the front end. I will try that! Thanks bro!

 

[OffRoadScott]

I adjusted the booster rod all the way in as far as it would go. It was barely touching the gauge. But I’m wondering if its pushing in on the MC just barely enough to activate the brakes.

I did bleed the entire cooling system, but I will do it again forsure! I didn’t lift the front end. I will try that! Thanks bro!

That rod you adjusted is the only thing I can think of why the brakes would bind. Never mind the pistons in the calipers could be stuck too.

 

[andersonoverland]

Yeah so check this out......my thoughts on it this morning.

1. I think the rod is possibly too long. It's adjusted all the way in so there is no more space to be allowed (removed the nut on the shaft also to give it more room, but it was still touching. I'm thinking that instead of removing the booster and MC and buying another setup, I will just make a, 1/8" spacer between the booster and MC, that way I can adjust it to perfect tolerance. And of course I will check the calipers, but I just had a shop check them a few months ago and they said they were fine.

2. For the cooling system, I installed a new thermostat, replaced all thermostat sensors, and replaced the radiator to a brand new CSF radiator with all new hoses and OEM cap. BUT.......I realized that after I bled the cooling system, I forgot to fill the overflow tank and the tube was just sitting in open air in that tank......would that cause it to suck in air back through the overflow hose and into the radiator? I've since filled the tank to the "full" line and will rebleed the system when I get home. I sure hope the thermostat isn't bad. I forgot to test it before I installed it like an idiot (was brand new though). I wonder if there is a way to test the thermostat without taking it back out and resealing everything?

uhhggg.....the ongoing tail chasing. lol! Other than this stuff, she's running great!

Thanks for the help man! Merry Christmas!!

 

[OffRoadScott]

Yeah so check this out......my thoughts on it this morning.

1. I think the rod is possibly too long. It's adjusted all the way in so there is no more space to be allowed (removed the nut on the shaft also to give it more room, but it was still touching. I'm thinking that instead of removing the booster and MC and buying another setup, I will just make a, 1/8" spacer between the booster and MC, that way I can adjust it to perfect tolerance. And of course I will check the calipers, but I just had a shop check them a few months ago and they said they were fine.

2. For the cooling system, I installed a new thermostat, replaced all thermostat sensors, and replaced the radiator to a brand new CSF radiator with all new hoses and OEM cap. BUT.......I realized that after I bled the cooling system, I forgot to fill the overflow tank and the tube was just sitting in open air in that tank......would that cause it to suck in air back through the overflow hose and into the radiator? I've since filled the tank to the "full" line and will rebleed the system when I get home. I sure hope the thermostat isn't bad. I forgot to test it before I installed it like an idiot (was brand new though). I wonder if there is a way to test the thermostat without taking it back out and resealing everything?

uhhggg.....the ongoing tail chasing. lol! Other than this stuff, she's running great!

Thanks for the help man! Merry Christmas!!

Was the thermostat OEM Toyota? There is no way I can think of testing it without removing it. When it gets hot open up the heater and see if you are getting hot air, if not the thermostat might not be opening.

You will always be chasing something on this rigs.

Merry Christmas.

 

[andersonoverland]

Yeah I think it was. I replaced the heater valve too at the rear of the engine bay......heater works great and seems to be working great changing temps from cold to hot. I think you are right.....need to bleed the radiator again.