One Year Cost of Ownership - 2007 Landcruiser

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OP is just sharing HIS experience with us about the cost of ownership of HIS 2007 LC. Let's go easy with the "shoulda done this" and "overpaid for that" comments. He's neither complaining nor asking for advice. If he was, it would be a different story.

I agree for the most part, minus him saying the Slee override was more hassle than it was worth. If done properly, it can be a valuable tool. As far as having dealer do all his work, I see nothing wrong with that if he's willing to pay.
 
Good info. Glad I Had Slee remove my AHC and install the OME with the diff drop. Looks like viewing Mod's as a complete system is the best approach. I would of gotten rid of the air pump and had the cheaper "no further problem possible" mod done. Plus gotten rid of the AHC and put in the OME with the diff drop. Everything else just becomes regular service items.
 
Front CV joints – $611.00, $908.00, ACC Garage
This problem was caused by my personal need to have the AHC over-ride active for what I thought would be a cheap lift until my AHC fails. The old CV’s were not happy with the new angles and very soon after the AHC switch was installed they failed. Remanufactured CV’s failed in 6000 miles. Replaced by ACC under warranty for the difference in price of parts (ouch - $908).

U-joints – $389.95, private mechanic
Very soon after the new CV’s were put in, the U-joints also started failing. This was not a surprise based on my conversation with the guys at ACC since all the bearings had been riding along in one place for 140K miles and then suddenly had to ride at a different angle.
For the CV joints, what actually failed? Did the CV boots start leaking?

And U-joints.... Driveshaft? What symptoms were there?
 
For the CV joints, what actually failed? Did the CV boots start leaking?

And U-joints.... Driveshaft? What symptoms were there?
Im assuming his CVs and u joints formed a wear pattern and when he changed all his driveline angles he experienced vibration issues. But thats just a guess. Seems silly to replace a cv for a torn boot.
 
...assuming his CVs and u joints formed a wear pattern and when he changed all his driveline angles he experienced vibration issues.

That's what happened to my '06 - 95,000+ miles and it's butter - then the lift... soon after that, I got a vibration that was attributed to the CVs. ACC (same shop who works on Matt's 100) diagnosed and repaired (new axles). Brian (ACC owner) said the truck probably would've gone another 50,000... 100,000 miles on the original axles without any vibration/failure. But as you noted, take them out of their happy place (angle, wear pattern) and they fail.

While the 100 was on the rack, they found the U-joints in the front shaft to be pretty fried - just dry and stiff. Oh, and the same shaft had a dent in it... contributing to the vibration. The shaft was rebuilt and spin-balanced. Back to butter.
 
I'm totall happy with ACC doing my work. I can do my own oil changes, I just choose not to. I started with them to do all my basic maintenance that I didn't want/couldn't do myself and while it was there the oil would get changed. I wouldn't drive the 300 miles round trip otherwise.

I won't be changing globes and accumulators. The AHC will all get ripped out and a new traditional suspension system will be installed. The AHC override was just to get the wanted lift until the AHC failed.

The maintenance I can live with. I have a good job and a dirt driveway and no garage. So I pay to get things done. It's the repairs that I have been surprised about.

All this said, I love getting into the LandCruiser everyday. I'm just hoping the next year costs a lot less than this one!!!
 
I'm at 6 months now with my '02 and not counting cosmetic stuff I have basically just been doing PM stuff the previous owner never bothered to do. It has been fluids so far with my buddy and I; maybe $200 total for changing out diff flies, tranny drain/fill, and M1 oil change. I'm saving up for a major service to get TB, WP, and heater T's, beyond a normal $750 TB job. I'm planning on $2K for the stuff the PO left for me. However, I only paid $10,900 with 135K miles for a vehicle that cost over $60K new.

Knock on wood, nothing has failed causing unplanned cost.
 
I agree for the most part, minus him saying the Slee override was more hassle than it was worth. If done properly, it can be a valuable tool. As far as having dealer do all his work, I see nothing wrong with that if he's willing to pay.

What exactly did I do improperly? It was purchased from SLEE, installed by a reputable shop, and used as prescribed by SLEE. I am just relaying for buyers to beware if they have a truck with a lot of miles on the CVs. I am hopeful the SLEE override will now serve my purposes until the AHC fails. Then it will be removed along with all the other AHC components.
 
Sounds like typical costs for base-lining. 1000 dollars in this day and age-especially for a 100series, doesn't go real far. In regards to the u-joints, typically they are neglected, very few people grease them. At the dealer, they don't pay me to grease the u-joints, its listed in with the services, but no charge for it is on the ticket-which means I get no pay to do it, so I only begrudgingly do it if they look dry. I think a lot of techs don't do it at all. Now your fairly caught up, I would expect setting aside around 1500 a year should be good to keep up with maintenance-as in really good no leaks at all maintenance.
 
Bought my '06 about six months ago and now have over $10,000 in baselining. BUT, I went CRAZY - and even had a solid hookup for OEM parts. Hoping this cruiser lasts a loooong time.

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What exactly did I do improperly? It was purchased from SLEE, installed by a reputable shop, and used as prescribed by SLEE. I am just relaying for buyers to beware if they have a truck with a lot of miles on the CVs. I am hopeful the SLEE override will now serve my purposes until the AHC fails. Then it will be removed along with all the other AHC components.

You lifted the vehicle, using the AHC, without installing a diff drop. Just because the override doesn't come with a diff drop, doesn't mean you don't need it. You will continually have CV issues if you drive in H mode with the override. The reason they failed is because of the steeper angles on them.

You essentially bought a lift kit without also buying a diff drop. That's one of the main reasons the factory lowers at 20mph, to reduce the drive line angles as you get to higher speeds.

I can almost guarantee Slee tried to sell you a diff drop when you ordered the override because he did the same for me

Also, your AHC system will fail prematurely if you drive in H mode without addressing the increased pressures in the front and rear. You need to crank your torsion bars and add spacers to the rear to get the pressures back in spec in H mode.
 
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That's crazy! Just to have another experience for reference, I bought my '00 LX almost exactly 1 year ago and I've spent only $1034.89 on getting the maintenance caught up from the PO and baselining it. That includes fixing an exhaust manifold leak, rebuilding the cv joints, replacing the coolant T's, oil changes, greasing the driveshaft, steering rack bushings, new sway bar bushings, new motor mounts, flushing the AHC, and a few other little things I'm sure I'm forgetting. Just to state the obvious, I did all the work myself. She should be good to go for a while now, the only other thing I need to get worked out is the wind noise from an improper windshield install.
 
You lifted the vehicle, using the AHC, without installing a diff drop. Just because the override doesn't come with a diff drop, doesn't mean you don't need it. You will continually have CV issues if you drive in H mode with the override. The reason they failed is because of the steeper angles on them.

You essentially bought a lift kit without also buying a diff drop. That's one of the main reasons the factory lowers at 20mph, to reduce the drive line angles as you get to higher speeds.

I can almost guarantee Slee tried to sell you a diff drop when you ordered the override because he did the same for me

Also, your AHC system will fail prematurely if you drive in H mode without addressing the increased pressures in the front and rear. You need to crank your torsion bars and add spacers to the rear to get the pressures back in spec in H mode.

I have installed 3 inch spacer lifts on two Tundras and a 5th gen 4Runner and never installed a diff drop. I have logged many thousands of miles on those vehicles with no problems. The guys at ACC disagree with you that a diff drop is needed. The increase in lift is not as much as what I got from spacer lifts. And no, SLEE did not try to sell or even mention a diff drop when I bought the over-ride switch. I don't care if my AHC fails. Bring it on! It will then be time to rip it all out and go with a traditional suspension. The cost of AHC replacement is just too great and it's not needed by me.
 
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