One Stop Safari Turbo Thread! - Repairs, Upgrades, Challenges (13 Viewers)

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Ok so I've installed the new waste gate, done a boost leak test and fixed a leak I was unaware of... Now I've got my actuator releasing at about 13 PSI when I put air to it but I can barely get 6PSI on the gauge in the truck on WOT. I understand the exhaust pressure on the WG flap probably causes the actuator to open before the set pressure using just compressed air without truck running. SO, how can there be such a gap in what PSI I'm getting on the gauge in the truck and what the actuator is opening at with compressed air?
 
Ok so I've installed the new waste gate, done a boost leak test and fixed a leak I was unaware of... Now I've got my actuator releasing at about 13 PSI when I put air to it but I can barely get 6PSI on the gauge in the truck on WOT. I understand the exhaust pressure on the WG flap probably causes the actuator to open before the set pressure using just compressed air without truck running. SO, how can there be such a gap in what PSI I'm getting on the gauge in the truck and what the actuator is opening at with compressed air?

Where are you tapping in to test manifold pressure and what is you guage setup?
 
Ok so I've installed the new waste gate, done a boost leak test and fixed a leak I was unaware of... Now I've got my actuator releasing at about 13 PSI when I put air to it but I can barely get 6PSI on the gauge in the truck on WOT. I understand the exhaust pressure on the WG flap probably causes the actuator to open before the set pressure using just compressed air without truck running. SO, how can there be such a gap in what PSI I'm getting on the gauge in the truck and what the actuator is opening at with compressed air?

A couple other questions:
-You mentioned earlier that you had to replace the turbo. Do you have the make/model or map of the replacement turbo? I just wonder if it can hit anything higher than 6 psi at our engine conditions. Is the pressure line to the actuator still coming from the same spot on the compressor housing as the original Safari unit?
-Hard to reach when installed, but you could disconnect the wastegate actuator rod and verify that the turbo can put up more than 6 psi.
-What actuator model did you buy as a replacement? I am wondering what the published specs are for its actuating pressure. I never bench-tested my new one before installing it, but it maintains its published pressure of around 6.5-7 psi all on its own.
 
Boost is tapped off the intake manifold on a no longer in service EGR port. Just installed the AEM wideband/failsafe Boost and AFR gauge.
 
A couple other questions:
-You mentioned earlier that you had to replace the turbo. Do you have the make/model or map of the replacement turbo? I just wonder if it can hit anything higher than 6 psi at our engine conditions. Is the pressure line to the actuator still coming from the same spot on the compressor housing as the original Safari unit?
-Hard to reach when installed, but you could disconnect the wastegate actuator rod and verify that the turbo can put up more than 6 psi.
-What actuator model did you buy as a replacement? I am wondering what the published specs are for its actuating pressure. I never bench-tested my new one before installing it, but it maintains its published pressure of around 6.5-7 psi all on its own.

Turbo is a refurbished Safari unit from Man A Fre, Identical to the one that came out. Pressure port is in same location.
I can't disconnect the actuator rod as that would allow wastegate flap to open, BUT I could disconnect compressor housing line to actuator and plug to see how much boost it makes that way. You got me thinking, thanks!
Actuator is a universal, adjustable that is probably just a POS. It's tightened down all the way only making 6 PSI.
Amazon product ASIN B00BD9BWEK
This is the gauge...
Amazon product ASIN B007ZAQLF6
I'll try plugging the actuator pressure port and see what she does. I'm guessing it's just a s***ty actuator.
 
Turbo is a refurbished Safari unit from Man A Fre, Identical to the one that came out. Pressure port is in same location.
I can't disconnect the actuator rod as that would allow wastegate flap to open, BUT I could disconnect compressor housing line to actuator and plug to see how much boost it makes that way. You got me thinking, thanks!
Actuator is a universal, adjustable that is probably just a POS. It's tightened down all the way only making 6 PSI.
Amazon product ASIN B00BD9BWEK
This is the gauge...
Amazon product ASIN B007ZAQLF6
I'll try plugging the actuator pressure port and see what she does. I'm guessing it's just a s***ty actuator.

Those pics aren't showing up for me, but I installed a manual boost controller inline of the waste-gate actuator. It allowed me to better dial in boost vs relying on the actuator's preset threshold. Basically a spring loaded ball bearing that opens all at once vs slow creep.


Side note, these guys were a LIFE saver on both of my Safari rebuilds. They can verify actuator / test / rebuild turbos. Great to work with.

 
Those pics aren't showing up for me, but I installed a manual boost controller inline of the waste-gate actuator. It allowed me to better dial in boost vs relying on the actuator's preset threshold. Basically a spring loaded ball bearing that opens all at once vs slow creep.


Side note, these guys were a LIFE saver on both of my Safari rebuilds. They can verify actuator / test / rebuild turbos. Great to work with.



Thanks for the info. That boost controller looks sweet. If I can't get the Mamba actuator dialed in I'll definitely be ordering that. Part below-


After plugging the actuator boost port I still could only build 8 PSI of boost over 4k RPM. This tells me the exhaust pressure pushing on that waste gate is quite a bit, so I have to counter that also with the actuator spring. Hopefully the new adjustable will work, otherwise I'll be buying that boost controller.

Good to know about Gpop Shop. I have the original safari turbo that cracked due to the lean unichip on hand. I may have to rebuild eventually so it's nice to have a spare, and good to know where to send it! 🍻
 
First time I've had to post here with a problem, been totally reliable for a long time now. Yesterday I just went for a drive and suddenly it's over-boosting. It's always been 6-7psi on the gauge, rock solid. But yesterday it felt strange and I noticed the boost hitting over 11psi. I'm guessing I have a waste gate issue, figured I'd ask here first. Actually I don't really know what the boost is supposed to be with this kit, always assumed it was low-pressure and it has performed very well for over 170k miles.

Haven't owned a turbocharged vehicle for a long time and this is the first time I've had to troubleshoot a boost issue, so any suggestions are welcome.
 
First time I've had to post here with a problem, been totally reliable for a long time now. Yesterday I just went for a drive and suddenly it's over-boosting. It's always been 6-7psi on the gauge, rock solid. But yesterday it felt strange and I noticed the boost hitting over 11psi. I'm guessing I have a waste gate issue, figured I'd ask here first. Actually I don't really know what the boost is supposed to be with this kit, always assumed it was low-pressure and it has performed very well for over 170k miles.

Haven't owned a turbocharged vehicle for a long time and this is the first time I've had to troubleshoot a boost issue, so any suggestions are welcome.
Seems like your actuator diaphragm is torn. Exact thing happened to mine earlier in this thread:

I don’t know if it can be changed on the vehicle, it’s in a very hard to reach place. I had taken my whole manifold off anyway so it was easy to replace on the bench.

The Safari system was designed for 4 or 4.5 psi according to the CARB cert. that exact actuator is no longer available so I replaced it with a 6.5 or 7 psi actuator. Works great 👍
 
Thanks Matt. I spent the weekend cleaning and organizing the garage so I could get rolling on projects. Looks like I have a new one. I'll get on it this week and will let you know what I find.
 
Success. Finally got the actuator out and confirmed it’s bad. Getting it out was a lot more of a pain that I thought. Removing the heat shields gave me access to the two bolts and I thought I could just disconnect the pushrod and get it out. Nope there was a snap ring on the end of the rod impossible to access. Ended up unbolting the manifold, unbolting the downpipe and then I was able to rotate the whole assembly to gain access to the pushrod. Came out easy then. Applied air to the nipple and it just leaks right out. Now to see if I can source a replacement.
 
Following up with this, been a busy week and just didn't make it back to the garage. My actuator part number was 480009-9 which is a bit different from Matt's earlier in the thread. This one is readily available online and I just ordered one for $83 plus shipping, should be here next week. So I get to replace some hoses and take care of a few other things while I'm waiting.
 
Following up with this, been a busy week and just didn't make it back to the garage. My actuator part number was 480009-9 which is a bit different from Matt's earlier in the thread. This one is readily available online and I just ordered one for $83 plus shipping, should be here next week. So I get to replace some hoses and take care of a few other things while I'm waiting.
Looks like that one has a bent rod, are you sure you want that? Looks like it’s set for 7 psi, which will be good.
 
Sorry guys, I've been crazy busy and haven't been on Mud as much as I used to. With this thread getting more attention these days, I just went back and added a TON of information / pics in my first few reserved slots. Make sure to go back and look at them! Hopefully it will answer questions if I'm not around.

I still have my 80 three years after this last fix, she just got a Bowfin rack, RTT and spent all summer slinging boats around. Still holding strong!

20200626_181617.jpg


20200824_113051.jpg


20200903_105722.jpg
 
Looks like that one has a bent rod, are you sure you want that? Looks like it’s set for 7 psi, which will be good.
Considering that's what came out of the truck (yep with the bent rod), that's what I'm going with back in. When the new one gets here I'll compare and set the adjuster for length, should work out fine.
IMG_8423.png
 
Sorry guys, I've been crazy busy and haven't been on Mud as much as I used to. With this thread getting more attention these days, I just went back and added a TON of information / pics in my first few reserved slots. Make sure to go back and look at them! Hopefully it will answer questions if I'm not around.

I still have my 80 three years after this last fix, she just got a Bowfin rack, RTT and spent all summer slinging boats around. Still holding strong!

View attachment 2619299

View attachment 2619300

View attachment 2619301
Your truck looks a LOT like mine, down to the Kaymar rear bumper, swing arm and jack attachment. Supposedly mine was built when it was new by a dealer in the NW with cooperation from ARB and Safari as a promotional thing, and it was one of six that were built. I wonder if yours is another one of those six?
 
Ha! I bet it was. Mine was built by Toyota of Seattle, they were doing a promo of building a couple expedition rigs. Kaymar, ARB drawers, OME lift, beefed up brakes, the works. I have a whole folder of emails form the owner to his shop about the build. His general service manager bought one, I bought it from him.

My understanding was there were only TWO built, that Man a Fre supplied all the gear including the Safari kits and that it took a bit of dealing with them to allow the install to happen out of their shop per Safari's requirements.

I've always wondered how many Safari kit were in the US, I thought I heard less than 30 at one point due to having to buy them in scale and the requirement to have the vendor install.
 
Considering that's what came out of the truck (yep with the bent rod), that's what I'm going with back in. When the new one gets here I'll compare and set the adjuster for length, should work out fine.
View attachment 2619355
Please post a picture of it assembled when you get it back together.

here’s mine-maybe the angled rod would have been better
519D9C68-48D0-4A4B-A84B-984438D871FB.jpeg
 
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Ha! I bet it was. Mine was built by Toyota of Seattle, they were doing a promo of building a couple expedition rigs. Kaymar, ARB drawers, OME lift, beefed up brakes, the works. I have a whole folder of emails form the owner to his shop about the build. His general service manager bought one, I bought it from him.

My understanding was there were only TWO built, that Man a Fre supplied all the gear including the Safari kits and that it took a bit of dealing with them to allow the install to happen out of their shop per Safari's requirements.

I've always wondered how many Safari kit were in the US, I thought I heard less than 30 at one point due to having to buy them in scale and the requirement to have the vendor install.
Toyota of Seattle? That makes sense. I heard the story of the build from Phil, who heard it from the owner before him who had it for 12 years. They said it was six, but I have no idea, sounds like you might have more accurate information. It would be very cool to get the full story of these trucks.

Do you have the original ARB drawers? I've still got them, built like a tank. Not as pretty as the new models, but they work great. I replaced the original OME shocks a couple years ago, wow were they shot to hell.
 

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