OME vs ironMan4x4 suspension kit

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Joined
May 17, 2021
Threads
3
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12
Location
Houston, Texas
Hi yo'all,

I'm looking into getting a suspension lift kit for my 1999 LC.

Ive been looking into the ironMan4x4 2" nitro (or foam cell)

And the crusierOutfitters kit for the 3" medium OME.

*I'm new to overlanding/off road. But 5his LC will beainly used for overlanding /off road /weekend camping trips etc.

**I personally don't really care for the extra super smooth "Cadillac" kinda on a cloud ride. (Which I've heard that this is the cl foam all about -please correct me if I'm wrong )
And I don't mind the approx 2 months wait for the OME .

Please share you experience & opinion with either of the above options.

***I'm planing on getting a 35" MT tires as the next step.

****Does the 3" OME will force me to get new UCA or it won't be a "must" ?
 
I switched out my OME shocks for Stock shocks. I have a couple thousand miles on mine its for sale if you want them. OME was too stiff for my taste.
 
OME shocks aren’t fun. Ironman shocks are better. OEM Toyota shocks are the best ride per $ spent. Coil springs are similar between OME and Ironman, but OME has more options. OME and Ironman torsion bars are functionally the same. Very few lifted 100s *need* aftermarket UCAs - the OEM Toyota UCAs work fine in most cases - but with 35s you might need them.
 
Iron Man FCP’s have a very firm and controlled feel. Definitely not Cadillac-soft, but not crazy-stiff like OME either.
 
Hi yo'all,

I'm looking into getting a suspension lift kit for my 1999 LC.

Ive been looking into the ironMan4x4 2" nitro (or foam cell)

And the crusierOutfitters kit for the 3" medium OME.

*I'm new to overlanding/off road. But 5his LC will beainly used for overlanding /off road /weekend camping trips etc.

**I personally don't really care for the extra super smooth "Cadillac" kinda on a cloud ride. (Which I've heard that this is the cl foam all about -please correct me if I'm wrong )
And I don't mind the approx 2 months wait for the OME .

Please share you experience & opinion with either of the above options.

***I'm planing on getting a 35" MT tires as the next step.

****Does the 3" OME will force me to get new UCA or it won't be a "must" ?
If you're new to this chassis or especially if you're new to off roading in general I strongly urge you to forget a lift at all for right now. Lots of newbies come into this thinking the very first thing any vehicle *needs* is a lift and some gnarly 35's. For the 100, I think that's back ass-wards.

What's your overall budget? If it isn't huge (five figures), a lift as a first mod is a waste on a 100, IMO. There are so many better choices. Sliders, skid plates, cargo systems, bumpers even. Stock suspension and 33" tires buy you all the off-roading/camping/overlanding 99.8% of people actually do and that combo costs very little compared to a full lift kit, 35" MTs and the inevitable subsequent repairs/maintenance that come with that. 35" MT's are awesome for parking lot cred. Not as great for smiles per mile on a trail compared to other stuff you can buy.

I see your location is Houston. Are there an abundance of trails that need 35's in the Houston area? Are you planning to do Rubicon or other extreme trails? If not, the 35's may eat up more "fun funds" than they're worth.

IMO, 3" OME lift would warrant the aftermarket UCAs. Depends how much wandering you can stand on the highway. The factory UCAs run out of caster adjustment for most folks (though a few on here say they've been able to stay in spec) around 2" lift. I would run a diff drop on a 2"+ lift as well, just to reduce the wear on a CV - genuine OEM units are $500 each and aftermarket is a total gamble.

Hopefully that helps, but there ya go! Welcome!
 
If you're new to this chassis or especially if you're new to off roading in general I strongly urge you to forget a lift at all for right now. Lots of newbies come into this thinking the very first thing any vehicle *needs* is a lift and some gnarly 35's. For the 100, I think that's back ass-wards.

What's your overall budget? If it isn't huge (five figures), a lift as a first mod is a waste on a 100, IMO. There are so many better choices. Sliders, skid plates, cargo systems, bumpers even. Stock suspension and 33" tires buy you all the off-roading/camping/overlanding 99.8% of people actually do and that combo costs very little compared to a full lift kit, 35" MTs and the inevitable subsequent repairs/maintenance that come with that. 35" MT's are awesome for parking lot cred. Not as great for smiles per mile on a trail compared to other stuff you can buy.

I see your location is Houston. Are there an abundance of trails that need 35's in the Houston area? Are you planning to do Rubicon or other extreme trails? If not, the 35's may eat up more "fun funds" than they're worth.

IMO, 3" OME lift would warrant the aftermarket UCAs. Depends how much wandering you can stand on the highway. The factory UCAs run out of caster adjustment for most folks (though a few on here say they've been able to stay in spec) around 2" lift. I would run a diff drop on a 2"+ lift as well, just to reduce the wear on a CV - genuine OEM units are $500 each and aftermarket is a total gamble.

Hopefully that helps, but there ya go! Welcome!
Problem solved: 35s, no lift, angle grinder to the fenders.
 
I like it, but pshh why stop at 35?!
Fooo’deeeez
1626752528720.gif
 
If you're new to this chassis or especially if you're new to off roading in general I strongly urge you to forget a lift at all for right now. Lots of newbies come into this thinking the very first thing any vehicle *needs* is a lift and some gnarly 35's. For the 100, I think that's back ass-wards.

What's your overall budget? If it isn't huge (five figures), a lift as a first mod is a waste on a 100, IMO. There are so many better choices. Sliders, skid plates, cargo systems, bumpers even. Stock suspension and 33" tires buy you all the off-roading/camping/overlanding 99.8% of people actually do and that combo costs very little compared to a full lift kit, 35" MTs and the inevitable subsequent repairs/maintenance that come with that. 35" MT's are awesome for parking lot cred. Not as great for smiles per mile on a trail compared to other stuff you can buy.

I see your location is Houston. Are there an abundance of trails that need 35's in the Houston area? Are you planning to do Rubicon or other extreme trails? If not, the 35's may eat up more "fun funds" than they're worth.

IMO, 3" OME lift would warrant the aftermarket UCAs. Depends how much wandering you can stand on the highway. The factory UCAs run out of caster adjustment for most folks (though a few on here say they've been able to stay in spec) around 2" lift. I would run a diff drop on a 2"+ lift as well, just to reduce the wear on a CV - genuine OEM units are $500 each and aftermarket is a total gamble.

Hopefully that helps, but there ya go! Welcome!
DEAR suprarx7nut,

I EXTREMELY APPRECIATE YOUR INPUT!

you did make me think now again about the priorities on my "to get" list.

about the CV AXLES...
my 99 lc actually this days in the shop getting brand new OEM TOYOTA cv axels installed.
as well as the entire flange kit etc and all the small parts that need to be replaced
as well as a rebuild Denso alternator
KOYO ball bearings (from cruiser outfitters)
upper & lower ball joints (555 brands from)
and an OEM remanufactured by Toyota steering rack.

I think first before anything else to make her "pretty" all the above and from last month the whole (1st time ever @208k miles) all the heating & cooling system bein replaced as well.
the aisin kit for the timing belt,water pump, etc. radiator& hoses. t connectors fan bracket & clutch.)
windows regulators and maybe some other things but under the hood


I think now with your suggestions I would first start to take her out, explore, take a weekend /camping or something to first test all the parts I have replaced and "feel her" before doing anything to "make her pretty" from the outside.

i guess this is THE case of " inner beauty counts more" so I need to make sure she is in shape then ill start to make her pretty.

thank you again !!!
 
I have a beater heep with an OME kit and one of the leaf springs sagged after a couple months. I called ARB and they asked for pics and measurements and then said I needed to remove the spring for yet another measurement. I ended up buying another spring so I wouldn't have it out of commission for weeks while they considered honoring their warranty.

My buddy's kid has rough country springs on his heep and when he bent one they asked for 1 pic and overnighted him a new spring. Thats how it should be handled.

I think I'm done with ARB/OME.
 
I have a beater heep with an OME kit and one of the leaf springs sagged after a couple months. I called ARB and they asked for pics and measurements and then said I needed to remove the spring for yet another measurement. I ended up buying another spring so I wouldn't have it out of commission for weeks while they considered honoring their warranty.

My buddy's kid has rough country springs on his heep and when he bent one they asked for 1 pic and overnighted him a new spring. Thats how it should be handled.

I think I'm done with ARB/OME.
Two too many Heeps.
 
I have a beater heep with an OME kit and one of the leaf springs sagged after a couple months. I called ARB and they asked for pics and measurements and then said I needed to remove the spring for yet another measurement. I ended up buying another spring so I wouldn't have it out of commission for weeks while they considered honoring their warranty.

My buddy's kid has rough country springs on his heep and when he bent one they asked for 1 pic and overnighted him a new spring. Thats how it should be handled.

I think I'm done with ARB/OME.
I run 36r springs on all four corners of my YJ for the added spring rate. Some of the ligher weight springs were prone to bending. rough country has a good warranty, but the springs are terrible
 
Welcome to 100 series ownership. It looks like you have a good "bottom up" plan for restoration. I also have a 1999 model and started my refresh with foundational components like you have listed. I like to get the critical suspension steering components in order before building up.

When I bought my 99 model in January of 2020, I connected with a regionally (Ozark / Ouachita) famous LC expert and restorer and builder. We talked about the national forest trails where I go off-road. Since I have a Tacoma, I knew about OME, Bilstien, Ironman, and others for Toyota trucks.

After a few days of conversation and talking to people around the the state. I found that know a number of 80 series and 4Runner owners were moving from ICON to Dobinsons. These are people who are into serious off-roading with near unlimited budgets. Money does not matter.
My only apprehension was a perception was that Dobinsons may have been out of my price range. I turned out to be pleasantly surprised at the price.

II have learned a lot from many Facebook off-road clubs in the ArkLaTex area. After watching people the groups, I'm seeing Dobinsons become an emerging brand in the ArkLaTex region for a reason that I will share in pictures below. Information that I've learned from Facebook leads me to believe that shocks may become regional based on design characteristics. I can't expect a shock that is well loved in Utah and CO to meet some of the crazy requirements that we have in my area.

Note that I also needed to buy HD springs, torsion bars, upper control arms, diff drop, LCA reinforcements, and a list of other items. One mod leads to another.

My requirement was a 2" lift in the front and 3" rear. The lift calculation was based on other 100 series owners in the area and knowing the level of mud and water crossings that I encounter. The 100 series was purchased to be used for strictly for off-roading. It goes off-road usually once or twice a month. I usually takes 1 to 2 hours of driving curvy AR roads to get to my off-road destination. Trails are a combination of red-clay, mud, and small rocks that fly up and beat the daylights out of suspension components. Also note that I wanted extended travel front shocks. I like extended droop to keep the wheels on the ground when running through deep holes that you can't see because they are covered in mud.

Requirements:

1) Extended droop. I currently have 24 3/4 inch of full droop in the front.
2) Upper shock piston design (e.g. like ICON or FOX) with a protective boot for the shock shaft.
3) Be able to withstand hot conditions without fade.
4) Handle like a sports truck on winding switchback mountain roads at speeds over the recommended limit.

Here's a good write up from @crikeymike about IMS from another Toyota Truck forum.



I had a rough idea of the total vehicle weight after armor and modifications before I purchased the suspension. I estimated the 100 would weigh ~6,800 after modifications, gear, and passengers. I knew I would be close to the 6,860 GVWR at the end. The initial weight projection turned out to be right. If you do your homework and estimate your final build gross weight, buying springs for your final destination can turn out to be a good move.

Post Purchase Evaluation

So I ordered all of the parts, put everything together, and worked out great. I was somewhat shocked at how well it drives and handles on winding mountain roads as well as the trails. As far as driving preferences, all of my cars have modified/lowered suspensions with crisp handling characteristics. I don't like a land yacht ride. I think the 100 can take curves and handles woops and bumps with ease. Overall I'm very happy with on-road manners.

Off-road manners ride are also good. Note that I air down to 24 lbs for off-roading. I haven't see a need to go lower with my current mud tires.

How do the shocks perform off-road and can the shocks take the kind of abuse?

Let me switch computers to continue with some pictures.

Trail Abuse

This is a picture from last winter when I started off-roading. Today, much of the paint has been beaten off of the LCA. Little trail rocks beat the daylights out of my suspension components. I like the top mounted piston design with the protective boot for the shaft. After some real-world experience, I don't think I could live with a bottom mounted piston design in my environment.

1626871982924.webp


Protective covering on the shock bottom mount area.

1626872342499.webp



1626870932429.webp



I like extended droop in this situations.

1626871054524.webp





I initially learned about Dobinsons from Ozark Overland Outfitters. I feel I am lucky to have the experience and to get started off in the right direction.

 
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DEAR suprarx7nut,

I EXTREMELY APPRECIATE YOUR INPUT!

you did make me think now again about the priorities on my "to get" list.

about the CV AXLES...
my 99 lc actually this days in the shop getting brand new OEM TOYOTA cv axels installed.
as well as the entire flange kit etc and all the small parts that need to be replaced
as well as a rebuild Denso alternator
KOYO ball bearings (from cruiser outfitters)
upper & lower ball joints (555 brands from)
and an OEM remanufactured by Toyota steering rack.

I think first before anything else to make her "pretty" all the above and from last month the whole (1st time ever @208k miles) all the heating & cooling system bein replaced as well.
the aisin kit for the timing belt,water pump, etc. radiator& hoses. t connectors fan bracket & clutch.)
windows regulators and maybe some other things but under the hood


I think now with your suggestions I would first start to take her out, explore, take a weekend /camping or something to first test all the parts I have replaced and "feel her" before doing anything to "make her pretty" from the outside.

i guess this is THE case of " inner beauty counts more" so I need to make sure she is in shape then ill start to make her pretty.

thank you again !!!
Happy to help! Sounds like you're on the right track. Enjoy it!
 
I'll throw in my $.02 as I have a bit of experience in other platforms and off roading in the rocks and mountains of Montana, but I'm rather new to the 100 Series as you are.

My last 4x4 was a 2005 Nissan Frontier, which was a great rig. Reliable, comfortable, decently capable, so-so aftermarket. Anyway, to get the places I wanted to go, I ended up on 3" of lift, 33s (they have hilariously low ground clearance), heavy sliders, heavy armor, etc. Could it go more places? Sure, it definitely could. But I ended up compromising reliability, especially once I had it loaded up for long trips. It was too heavy and too cumbersome. The funny part is, the most difficult trail I ever did with that truck was accomplished without issue on 32s, 2.5" of lift, and no armor other than sliders. It took a bit more time and spotting, but it still got all the same places Tacomas on 34s were getting. Actually, I ended up removing the sliders for a summer to see how necessary they were for what I was doing, and discovered they mostly weren't. I did get into two situations where they would have saved me some headache, but largely it wasn't a problem.

With the 100 Series, I knew where I wanted to go and what I needed in terms of capability. Fun thing about the 100 is in stock form, it has the same amount of clearance in every measure as my 3" lifted Nissan on 33s with no sliders on it. That's with zero mods. It's also got better approach, departure, and breakover angles, plus a much shorter wheelbase. The totally unmodified Land Cruiser would be able to hang with my Nissan no problem. So, with this build, I started with the mindset of needs vs. wants. I wanted upgraded suspension, more for load carrying than lift. I opted for only the 1.5" OME instead of a taller lift because it's just not necessary. I'm going to stick to almost stock size tires instead of 35s or even 33s because, again, I just don't need that much clearance to get me where I need to go. I'm going with lightweight sliders and aluminum armor because I'd like the protection, but probably won't need something super heavy duty because I'll rarely use them. By going this route, I can avoid the extra weight and wear on the truck, I can spend less money on modding it and repairing it, and I can have it done more quickly. It will be nicer to drive too.

As others have suggested, this is an extremely robust and capable vehicle right out of the box, and often needs very little to work well for your intended purposes. There are a lot of cool-looking or capability-enhancing mods out there, but starting by taking a hard look at how the truck will be used and what is absolutely necessary could save your wallet some pain in the long run. It sounds like you are on the right road with that though, so good on you!

Let us know how things develop, always fun to watch new owners put love into their rigs.
 
I'll throw in my $.02 as I have a bit of experience in other platforms and off roading in the rocks and mountains of Montana, but I'm rather new to the 100 Series as you are.

My last 4x4 was a 2005 Nissan Frontier, which was a great rig. Reliable, comfortable, decently capable, so-so aftermarket. Anyway, to get the places I wanted to go, I ended up on 3" of lift, 33s (they have hilariously low ground clearance), heavy sliders, heavy armor, etc. Could it go more places? Sure, it definitely could. But I ended up compromising reliability, especially once I had it loaded up for long trips. It was too heavy and too cumbersome. The funny part is, the most difficult trail I ever did with that truck was accomplished without issue on 32s, 2.5" of lift, and no armor other than sliders. It took a bit more time and spotting, but it still got all the same places Tacomas on 34s were getting. Actually, I ended up removing the sliders for a summer to see how necessary they were for what I was doing, and discovered they mostly weren't. I did get into two situations where they would have saved me some headache, but largely it wasn't a problem.

With the 100 Series, I knew where I wanted to go and what I needed in terms of capability. Fun thing about the 100 is in stock form, it has the same amount of clearance in every measure as my 3" lifted Nissan on 33s with no sliders on it. That's with zero mods. It's also got better approach, departure, and breakover angles, plus a much shorter wheelbase. The totally unmodified Land Cruiser would be able to hang with my Nissan no problem. So, with this build, I started with the mindset of needs vs. wants. I wanted upgraded suspension, more for load carrying than lift. I opted for only the 1.5" OME instead of a taller lift because it's just not necessary. I'm going to stick to almost stock size tires instead of 35s or even 33s because, again, I just don't need that much clearance to get me where I need to go. I'm going with lightweight sliders and aluminum armor because I'd like the protection, but probably won't need something super heavy duty because I'll rarely use them. By going this route, I can avoid the extra weight and wear on the truck, I can spend less money on modding it and repairing it, and I can have it done more quickly. It will be nicer to drive too.

As others have suggested, this is an extremely robust and capable vehicle right out of the box, and often needs very little to work well for your intended purposes. There are a lot of cool-looking or capability-enhancing mods out there, but starting by taking a hard look at how the truck will be used and what is absolutely necessary could save your wallet some pain in the long run. It sounds like you are on the right road with that though, so good on you!

Let us know how things develop, always fun to watch new owners put love into their rigs.

I agree.. 100s do have a short turning radius with good approach and departure angles.

FWIW - I went with 285/75/16 tires and SCS F5 wheels. The main reason was I learned from putting oversized tires on my Tacoma and lost my ability to climb local road hills without downshifting. It really didn't handle as well with heavy wheels and tires. I guess if you live on flat land with straight roads around Oklahoma City it is ok or if you are planning to change the gearing.

It wasn't much fun on winding mountain roads with hills. So I quickly sold the heavy wheels and tires and returned to a size closer to stock. That little lesson cost me over $1,000 to correct.

Right now my tire and wheel weight combined is at ~74 lbs. No need for spacers with F5s to widen stance. Speedometer error is something like 4.5 MPH under.

We have regional animal problems down here in the ArklaTex that can put a strong bull bar to good use. Suicidal deer and wild hogs.

Wild fogs are more popular as we go south to Texas. I've hit deer and have torn the front end off of my truck. Animal strikes are a real problem.

You're not going to avoid damage when you hit a wild hog. You just need to be able to make it out of the woods.


1626870934771.webp


1626871092847.webp
 
I agree.. 100s do have a short turning radius with good approach and departure angles.

FWIW - I went with 285/75/16 tires and SCS F5 wheels. The main reason was I learned from putting oversized tires on my Tacoma and lost my ability to climb local road hills without downshifting. It really didn't handle as well with heavy wheels and tires. I guess if you live on flat land with straight roads around Oklahoma City it is ok or if you are planning to change the gearing.

It wasn't much fun on winding mountain roads with hills. So I quickly sold the heavy wheels and tires and returned to a size closer to stock. That little lesson cost me over $1,000 to correct.

Right now my tire and wheel weight combined is at ~74 lbs. No need for spacers with F5s to widen stance. Speedometer error is something like 4.5 MPH under.

We have regional animal problems down here in the ArklaTex that can put a strong bull bar to good use. Suicidal deer and wild hogs.

Wild fogs are more popular as we go south to Texas. I've hit deer and have torn the front end off of my truck. Animal strikes are a real problem.

You're not going to avoid damage when you hit a wild hog. You just need to be able to make it out of the woods.

I have a similar issue with deer here in Montana, which is why all of my backcountry travel trucks get bumpers. An ARB saved my Nissan from a deer strike around Christmas one year. Impact was probably at 25mph or so, zero damage. I recently hit a deer with my wife's Crosstrek at 20, and now it needs a new face.
 
I have a similar issue with deer here in Montana, which is why all of my backcountry travel trucks get bumpers. An ARB saved my Nissan from a deer strike around Christmas one year. Impact was probably at 25mph or so, zero damage. I recently hit a deer with my wife's Crosstrek at 20, and now it needs a new face.

I totally understand.

With ARB, it's what you can't see in the pictures below that may save you and your vehicle.

If I should eventually hit a hog, maybe my ARB bumper will keep from damaging the frame or limiting it to being repairable.

A few months ago, I saw a "drop dead georgious" 100 series get toatled. I almost cried when I saw it.

It didn't look like a lot of damage from street pictures.

1) Wheel spacer broke/malfunction causing vehicle to veer into a concrete road divider.
2) Steel bumper without crumple zones. The frame took the impact.

Personal opinion - It just takes too much time and resources to build up one of these vehicles to leave vulnerable areas.

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I run 36r springs on all four corners of my YJ for the added spring rate. Some of the ligher weight springs were prone to bending. rough country has a good warranty, but the springs are terrible
I'm running the exact same setup as you and I fully agree about Rough Country having terrible springs but at least they have good customer service. Dude in the ARB warranty dept didnt give 2 craps that I have OME suspension and ARB front bumper, drawers and fridge slides, etc.

Two too many Heeps.

Don't worry, I have a 2nd YJ on 39s for true abuse. :hillbilly:
 

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